Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

Rollinns

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I don't have any pics of my own swap since I'm still getting things ready for the swap (lift, dual batteries, hydroboost), and haven't pulled the gasser out yet, but here are some pics of a stock FJ60 radiator and stock isuzu 4BD2T intercooler in an 80.

Builds - Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

Builds - Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

Builds - Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

Switching my 97LC-4bt swap to Isuzu 4bd1t

Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build
 
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Looks like I got some homework here, I'll read through those build threads and look for ideas. I need to put my radiator back in and see what I have to work with. Can anyone confirm or deny if the RHS battery box is essentially a mirrored copy of the LHS box?

Since my last post I have only had about two free hours to work on the Cruiser, I tried to check a small thing off of the list. When converting from A442 to H151 you are left with an ABS sensor and nowhere to put it. I should have taken care of this before my stupid floor painting project, but it slipped my mind.

I welded an M6 bolt to the floor and slightly altered the OEM bracket to fit. I also changed the orientation of the sensor by 180 degrees to help with wiring, this should have no effect I believe.

1898865


I thought about trying to mount to bottom of center consoul, but that just seems like a headache to me.

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Here is an idea of the space we have to work with, this is the AT trim piece.

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Here is the finished product. I took off the little bracket that was spot welded on, it would not clear the trim.

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It looks like I had to extend the wires, I actually did not. That is just fresh electrical tape.

1898876


Not the most exciting thing but its done. Just out of curiosity, would there be interest in detailed info about the wiring harness to tie everything together? If not I wont waste time taking pictures and writing down notes about it.
 

Rollinns

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Yes, please post your wiring notes, I may not need that info now, but I might in the future.
 
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Time for an update. Finally got some things done and now I have a little free time to post up some pictures. First thing I did was modify the front engine bay wiring harness to move the alternator leads to the RHS, I also moved the yellow-white wire from the 3 pin alternator plug to the RHS. This will connect to the R2.8 alternator to drive the charge warning light.

I installed two 8AWG cables to the alternator, one will go directly to the battery, connecting to this thing.


The other lead goes into the fuse box, there it is connected to 3 different wires in a big splice joint. I crimped and soldered this...


Then I proceeded to put new split loom and tape on





I broke a few of the harness retainers so I need to find a few of those to tidy up the installation, but the nasty part is over. It is really nice to be able to remove the entire harness and do all the work on the bench.

Next I installed the gearbox, hopefully for the last time. What a PITA! Can anyone confirm that this clutch cover looks good? I had some doubts about the spring fingers, some pressure plates have fingers that are bent at the end. Everything seems to fit great.



For those H151 people out there can you tell me how the release arm feels with the gearbox installed? How about with the slave installed? Is it correct that there is a small amount of force applied at all times?


At this point I have the complete drivetrain installed using my engine mounts and trans mount, it looks pretty good all put together.


Also got the shifter boots installed, I really wish the floor pans were the same for the AT and MT rigs. I think some vehicles from this vintage have simple plates that bolted into the floor that were interchangeable between AT and MT vehicles, oh well...



I also have obtained some useful information about the R2.8 alternator and the R2.8 wiring harness. This might be useful for someone installing this engine who wants to run AC and a charge warning light. The mystery connector is this...

This is from Cummins tech support...
"The OEM connector on our wiring harness is a Tyco Amp PN 174984-2 if you are able to find the mating connector based on that, I’m not sure. If you wanted to bypass that section of the wiring harness and connect directly to the alternator, the connector you would need is a Framatome PN 1-967412-2 with terminal PN 185026-1, and seal PN 828904-1. "
 
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Does anyone have ideas for a toyota fuseable link that will fit the fzj80 and work with a 120A alternator? I think the stock 1FZ alternator is well less than 100A.
 

george_tlc

 
 
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^ Just use something like a MIDI fuse, they have similar 'slow' blow performance of a fusible link.

e.g. something like this -> AMI / MIDI Fuse - 150 Amp - Blue Sea Systems

The 'fuse' is meant to protect the wiring, so 150A should take care of alternator peaks and I presume you'll use appropriate gauge wire from alternator to MIDI holder and from MIDI holder to battery. MIDI, close to the battery end of things.

cheers,
george.
 

Rollinns

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I agree with george that a fuse is an acceptable alternative to a fusible link. I'm not a fan of fusible links. If you don't want a fuse either, here's a circuit breaker:

Amazon.com: Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics
Here's the info regarding the "slow blow" performance of it
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Circuit%20Protection/resources/datasheets/BUS_Tns_DS_18X_CIRCUITBREAKER.pdf

This model can also be used as a disconnect.
 

cody c

 
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I agree with george that a fuse is an acceptable alternative to a fusible link. I'm not a fan of fusible links. If you don't want a fuse either, here's a circuit breaker:

Amazon.com: Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics
Here's the info regarding the "slow blow" performance of it
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Circuit Protection/resources/datasheets/BUS_Tns_DS_18X_CIRCUITBREAKER.pdf

This model can also be used as a disconnect.
Blasphemy, purists cover your eyes from this heretics crazy miguidance!

But yeah, I agree and don't really know why we haven't all gone to a resettable fuse near the battery.
 
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How about the fusible links from other toyotas with a larger alternator?

I want to say there is a common upgradd done on fzj80s, prehaps the link that corresponds to that alternator might work?
 

fjbj40

 
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You can just buy bulk fusible link @ the appropriate size and build your own, you will just need the necessary pins and ring terminals. I would assume you have good quality crimpers by the work you are doing.
 
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You can just buy bulk fusible link @ the appropriate size and build your own, you will just need the necessary pins and ring terminals. I would assume you have good quality crimpers by the work you are doing.
Yes indeed. Can you recommend a good source for bulk fusible link? I have never seen the stuff available before.
 
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This evening I was able to make a little progress on the mutant beast. After the recent polar vortex we had to endure here in Michigan I decided to add another battery since even my 3VZ almost did not start, and after all its a Land Cruiser, it should not have to fear cold weather.

I found a deal online for a FJ80 battery tray, it did not fit as good as the OEM FZJ80 one, the holes needed to be enlarged just a little bit. Here it is pictured with the battery from the LHS to test fitment. I dont happen to know off hand which way the battery is supposed to be installed, it seems that the clamping bar is kinda close to the battery terminals.

I decided to do this now because I am getting close to having to design a cooling package for the engine and turbo, so I want to make sure that it fits around the dual battery setup.

Another item from long ago was the coolant outlet, as I mentioned before the R2.8 coolant outlet will touch the steering box. Since I am not a fan of altering excellent toyota engineering, I decided to engineer some of my own crap. I previously posed some pictures of the machined stainless steel parts that I intended to use to work around this problem. I found these slick things called pie cuts, I got one from stainless brothers out of Austin Texas. This along with a 90 degree bend and some straight sections allowed me to make this rather odd looking thing.


I need to rig up something to back purge before finishing the welds, i'll try to bang that out this weekend.

For reference here are two shots of the R2.8 coolant outlet installed, as you can see its very very close to the steering box.


Here is my homemade one installed...



This fits much better, and as long as the motor mounts dont break we should have no contact between coolant outlet and steering box.

Looking ahead to the future I see lots of plumbing issues since the power steering pump will now be on the opposite side of the engine bay. I removed this mess of hard and soft power steering line to free up space for intercooler plumbing, I dont think it will be much use anyways.

I know the OEM's use these cheesy things to help cool the power steering fluid, but I think we can do a little better. Since I ditched the A442 I just happen to have a kick ass trans cooler that already has factory brackets. I'm not sure if anyone has used an old trans cooler for this purpose but I dont see any reason what it would not work. I have had the privilege of installing some B and M trans coolers on other vehicles and from handling this unit I am left with the impression that the LC cooler is built a good bit better. Anyone care to challenge that claim?

I think I could plumb the power steering system using that neat little hard line thing that passes through the sheetmetal just below the LHS headlight, sorry but I dont have a picture handy at the moment. Im sure the 80 series guys know what i'm talking about.

==========================Edit=======================================================
Here is a picture of the core support pass thru, its the details like this that separate the land cruiser for just about everything else. What ever cooler is decided on this will allow for super clean plumbing.
 
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I usually purchase mine at napa, carquest or any auto parts place. I use cycleterminal.com for connectors.
Thanks for that led. I will need to dig through that website when I get some free time. I think I will need to build a connector harness for my alternator since I am pretty sure I did not add enough wire :mad:, it will be close, we will see if it works out. In the event it does not work have you ever seen a connector that will accept two 8AWG wires and one 16AWG wire. I know, it sounds crazy. The R2.8 alternator only have a charge lamp driver, not the two extra wires that the 1FZ alternator does since the R2.8 voltage regulator does not have a sensing wire. The other one I am not sure of the function.
 

fjbj40

 
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Could that cooler cool the fluid too much? Just think if there is no thermostatic control and you are in the polar vortex just driving down the highway. I know what can happen to PS fluid at really cold temps so you may want to rethink using that big efficient cooler, unless 37" tires are the plan and no extreme cold operations.

Just my 2 cents
 

fjbj40

 
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Thanks for that led. I will need to dig through that website when I get some free time. I think I will need to build a connector harness for my alternator since I am pretty sure I did not add enough wire :mad:, it will be close, we will see if it works out. In the event it does not work have you ever seen a connector that will accept two 8AWG wires and one 16AWG wire. I know, it sounds crazy. The R2.8 alternator only have a charge lamp driver, not the two extra wires that the 1FZ alternator does since the R2.8 voltage regulator does not have a sensing wire. The other one I am not sure of the function.
What style/type of connector? I work in aviation, I have seen connectors in aviation that have that capacity
 
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What style/type of connector? I work in aviation, I have seen connectors in aviation that have that capacity
Something that is weather proof I think would do the trick. Its not super important, I think I found find a workaround easily. I could do a splice by the air cleaner from two 8AWG wires to either one 6AWG or 4AWG up to the alternator charging post.

At this point i've got bigger fish to fry, like figuring out the cooling package. I have to cram a FMIC and radiator between two battery boxes, i'm sure that will be fun.
 
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Well I think I got another thing figured out. Maybe some people on here have checked out axis industries, they make many parts for the Jeep crowd looking to install this engine. They have a nice 205 dollar exhaust elbow that allows the elimination of the stupid catalyst canister on the side of the engine. Well I think that is a little expensive for a piece of cast iron, I get the idea they are repackaging Cummins parts and making a killing.

I found this by looking for ISF2.8 parts instead of R2.8 parts, seems Cummins PN 5259411 is exactly what is needed to get an exhaust system installed.

Stay tuned for developments on this!
 
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