Hey everyone, Just ordered a CSF 2708 Radiator for my FJ62. Can anyone tell me anything about these? my filler neck isn't bent which I know is usually problem due to crap shipping, but anyone have any experience with these things?
CSF 2708 4 Row Radiator..
- Thread starter Crusher95
- Start date
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Not sure what type of info you are asking for, but if the radiator arrived undamaged then you are ahead of the game.
I looked in the 2F Engine FSM and didn't see instructions on how to remove/replace the radiator. This is from memory, so might not be exactly correct, so you will have to use your powers of observation and deduction (part of the package that comes with having and opposable thumb and the ability to reason...)
In order to remove the radiator, you must remove the fan shroud (metal thing that attaches to the back of the radiator).
In order to remove the fan shroud, you must remove the fan/fan clutch (the plastic fan thing that is held onto the 4 water pump studs with 4 nuts)
In order to remove the fan/fan clutch, you must remove the belt that drives the water pump. You might have to do the same on the other side with the airpump...same principle as with the alternator.
In order to remove the belt that drives the water pump, you must loosen the alternator to relieve the tension on that belt.
I'm not familiar with the 62, but with the 60, the general procedure for removing the radiator can be outlined as follows:
1) make sure the vehicle is on flat ground, in park and the engine is off and emergency brake on (some folks disconnect the terminals at the battery, too, so the engine can't accidentally start while you are working on it)
2) to loosen the tension on the alternator, there is a bolt that goes through the bottom part of the bracket that holds the alternator - I think it is either 15mm or 17mm head. Loosen that
3) on the top of the alternator, you will see a long bolt that threads through another bracket that fastens the bolt to the top of the alternator. First loosen the bolt that fastens the bracket to the alternator, then back out that long bolt from the bracket.
4) remove the belt
5) undo the 4 nuts that hold the fan/fan clutch onto the water pump studs and remove fan/fan clutch
6) remove the bolts from the fan shroud (along each side of the fan shroud) and remove fan shroud - note: you may have to loosen the bracket that holds the air conditioning thing to the side of the fan shroud, but don't break the lines in the air conditioning, no need to, just loosen the bracket and push it out of the way
7) drain the coolant from the radiator by removing the radiator cap and loosening the petcock (looks like a wingnut) in the lower, passenger side of the radiator. Catch coolant in a bucket or something (not good for dogs/animals, but they think they want to drink it because it smells sweet)
8) remove hoses/lines to radiator
9) remove radiator by removing bolts along either side of the radiator
10) install new radiator by doing those steps above backwards
11) fill radiator with 50/50 mix of coolant/deionized water
12) install funnel onto radiator neck inlet
13) follow 'burping' procedures
I looked in the 2F Engine FSM and didn't see instructions on how to remove/replace the radiator. This is from memory, so might not be exactly correct, so you will have to use your powers of observation and deduction (part of the package that comes with having and opposable thumb and the ability to reason...)
In order to remove the radiator, you must remove the fan shroud (metal thing that attaches to the back of the radiator).
In order to remove the fan shroud, you must remove the fan/fan clutch (the plastic fan thing that is held onto the 4 water pump studs with 4 nuts)
In order to remove the fan/fan clutch, you must remove the belt that drives the water pump. You might have to do the same on the other side with the airpump...same principle as with the alternator.
In order to remove the belt that drives the water pump, you must loosen the alternator to relieve the tension on that belt.
I'm not familiar with the 62, but with the 60, the general procedure for removing the radiator can be outlined as follows:
1) make sure the vehicle is on flat ground, in park and the engine is off and emergency brake on (some folks disconnect the terminals at the battery, too, so the engine can't accidentally start while you are working on it)
2) to loosen the tension on the alternator, there is a bolt that goes through the bottom part of the bracket that holds the alternator - I think it is either 15mm or 17mm head. Loosen that
3) on the top of the alternator, you will see a long bolt that threads through another bracket that fastens the bolt to the top of the alternator. First loosen the bolt that fastens the bracket to the alternator, then back out that long bolt from the bracket.
4) remove the belt
5) undo the 4 nuts that hold the fan/fan clutch onto the water pump studs and remove fan/fan clutch
6) remove the bolts from the fan shroud (along each side of the fan shroud) and remove fan shroud - note: you may have to loosen the bracket that holds the air conditioning thing to the side of the fan shroud, but don't break the lines in the air conditioning, no need to, just loosen the bracket and push it out of the way
7) drain the coolant from the radiator by removing the radiator cap and loosening the petcock (looks like a wingnut) in the lower, passenger side of the radiator. Catch coolant in a bucket or something (not good for dogs/animals, but they think they want to drink it because it smells sweet)
8) remove hoses/lines to radiator
9) remove radiator by removing bolts along either side of the radiator
10) install new radiator by doing those steps above backwards
11) fill radiator with 50/50 mix of coolant/deionized water
12) install funnel onto radiator neck inlet
13) follow 'burping' procedures
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for that! Haven't stated yet, waiting for the car to come back from the shop for some other stuff currently.... I keep hearing the term "burping" can you elaborate a little more as to what that is and what exactly it entails??
Alright. I posted a link to 'burping' instructions on one of your other threads. I'll repost those instructions here, again. In order to making 'burping' easier, you need to order that funnel (see instructions when I post them) from Amazon or wherever so you get it time when you need it.
And I'll have to insist that you begin calling your FJ62 a "rig" or "truck" or "62" or "FJ62". It comes with the responsibility of owning a machine capable of amazing things...cars are for folks who just drive cars...but you will soon be driving a Land Cruiser...
- Thread starter
- #6
If they're posted, I can find them! sorry SL!
Burping:
For burping (this is after you have done the fix and are ready to test/run the truck again):
Before you start the truck, take the radiator cap off and get that funnel on (see below for information on funnel). Fill through the funnel until the coolant fills the funnel up about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That should be higher than any point on the rest of the cooling system (assuming you're parked on flat ground).
Start the truck and TURN BOTH HEATERS ON FULL BLAST. Keep heaters on full blast during burping procedure, you want the coolant flowing through the heaters to push through any trapped air there and move it out to your funnel. Herding air bubbles. More that just herding them, you're setting them free! They should be thanking you.
As it sits there idling, keep adding coolant to the funnel so it is at least 1/2 full. As the engine comes up to operating temperature and the thermostat SHOULD OPEN and remain at operating temp and any trapped air should start to bubble out through the coolant in the funnel and release into the atmosphere (...burp...). Add coolant if you need to as the air comes out and the level in the funnel drops, but not too full, because as the truck gets hot, the coolant is going to expand naturally and will move up higher in the funnel. Your gonna want to run it for a good while (45 mins or more) to let that thermostat continue to cycle and release trapped air. When you are convinced the air is out, remove the funnel and cap the radiator. Fill the overflow container 1/2 full will coolant. Should be good to go.
Funnel:
Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/?tag=ihco-20
Additional directions for using funnel/burping (if mine weren't clear enough) - http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/
For burping (this is after you have done the fix and are ready to test/run the truck again):
Before you start the truck, take the radiator cap off and get that funnel on (see below for information on funnel). Fill through the funnel until the coolant fills the funnel up about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That should be higher than any point on the rest of the cooling system (assuming you're parked on flat ground).
Start the truck and TURN BOTH HEATERS ON FULL BLAST. Keep heaters on full blast during burping procedure, you want the coolant flowing through the heaters to push through any trapped air there and move it out to your funnel. Herding air bubbles. More that just herding them, you're setting them free! They should be thanking you.
As it sits there idling, keep adding coolant to the funnel so it is at least 1/2 full. As the engine comes up to operating temperature and the thermostat SHOULD OPEN and remain at operating temp and any trapped air should start to bubble out through the coolant in the funnel and release into the atmosphere (...burp...). Add coolant if you need to as the air comes out and the level in the funnel drops, but not too full, because as the truck gets hot, the coolant is going to expand naturally and will move up higher in the funnel. Your gonna want to run it for a good while (45 mins or more) to let that thermostat continue to cycle and release trapped air. When you are convinced the air is out, remove the funnel and cap the radiator. Fill the overflow container 1/2 full will coolant. Should be good to go.
Funnel:
Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/?tag=ihco-20
Additional directions for using funnel/burping (if mine weren't clear enough) - http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/
Since you have an FJ62, you will be utilizing the built in trans cooler. I would have the trans cooler pressure tested at a radiator shop before you install in in your truck, there is a member here that lost the transmission in his 62 because the cooler was defective.
This makes a huge difference in "burping" your system.
lisle 24680 spill-free funnel
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/?tag=ihco-20
lisle 24680 spill-free funnel
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/?tag=ihco-20
I wrote a write up with pictures of the install so hopefully ill be able to post it soon, just have to fix some stuff. Also, i did it without cutting the shroud, or removing any fan parts at all or belts or anything that moves for that matter, or disconnect AC parts so its really a simple job. I did a VERY extensive parts list with PN's, PICS OF EACH PIECE, and PRICES to help. ill try and get it done quick but school started up this week so we will see
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks so much! that would be very very helpful, my school starts up in a few weeks and id like the radiator to be in before I drive over the grapevine to San deigo
