Cross-over on 3" lift? (2 Viewers)

[ntsqd]

If it does hit the pan it will first have bent the drag link on the RS frame rail. I checked that carefully. For it to hit the frame rail I have to take the current OME's well into negative arch, which I really do not wish to do except in really big hits. The springs in the pic are the unknowns that the truck came to me with, and were cracked. This is an original live axle truck with it's original oil pan. I'm not sure how these differ from the IFS oil pans, but I know that they do. Back in the day some guys modified their IFS oil pans for drag link clearance. I expected to need to do that and was surprised that I didn't have to.

The stock bumps do need to come off. I have some 'secret weapon' bumps waiting for my time. Which right now is all consumed by this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/336261-my-84-60-build-wallace.html

There is no paint or POR-15 in the actual cone washer contact zone or in the TRE tapers, I removed all of it before installation. What you see in the pic is mostly over-spray.

 

[ntsqd]

An update:

I took the truck to an alignment shop to find out why it was so odd to drive. Turns out that there is a difference in Caster from one side to the other. The right side has twice the Caster that the left side has! Short of a cut-n-turn there's nothing that can be done about that. With the gussets that I added to the knuckle balls I'm not inclined to do a cut-n-turn. I'll live with it until it drives me crazy and then decide what I want to do about it. The shop also tightened up the box adjustment and set the toe-in. I think that the steering is too light. Road fell is good, input responsiveness is too good but not squirrelly. I have a spare IFS box and the current one is starting to leak at the pitman shaft seal. I think that I should send it down to Lee Mfg and have it gone through. Maybe he has a larger torsion bar that can be fitted? I'll have to call them about that.

My initial temptation is to add some of Roger Brown's Caster/Pinion Angle shims. This would increase the Caster on both sides which would increase the steering effort and in the process make the percentage Castor difference between the sides less.

One thing learned: before making extensive mods to a front axle housing have an alignment shop do a work-up on what the numbers are. Then you can fix those issues while it is easier to do.

 

[ntsqd]

So, time for a further update. the JY sourced PS box that I used for the install shat the bed. Input shaft seal was leaking and the had always steering felt odd. It was like the box came from some extreme lux-o-boat, it was very over-assisted. Pulled it and sent it to Lee Mfg for a rebuild. Tom Lee was building racing PS systems when the others were still wandering around in diapers. I've known him to fix problems on other mfg's systems that the mfg of that system couldn't figure out.

Got the box back and re-installed. With the tires in the air I went back and forth with the steering wheel while the tires were in the air several brazillion times being careful to not dead-head the pump on the steering limits. PS fluid in the res no longer had bubbles, so I put it on the ground for a test drive. Steering felt odd, very definite high spot on center. It wasn't bad, just there. Figured maybe it needs a few miles to seat or something so I've been driving it now and then. Two days ago the PS pump made a small squeal. They usually only do that when low on fluid. Sure enough, it was low. Hasn't been leaking so there must have still been air in the box. About the time of the squeal I noted that the 'high spot' was also gone. The steering is now what I was hoping for when I started this odyssey!

 

[H8PVMNT]

Hey I scored a set of all pro crossover from a guy for $100 with the arm, over built tie rod with FJ80 rod ends, drag link and everything so I'm going to put it all on my '80. I did rear springs up front with a really low ride height whigh rides great but the stock steering is my limiting factor for downtravel. Right now I am using limiting straps to keep it from fragging but they can come off or at least be rearanged for more downtravel after I get the crossover on. I've learned to like the way they feel when you are hauling ass on farm roads and you reach full extension.

So after it was all said and done did you have to bend your drag link not to hit the framrail or oil pan or anything at full stuff or did it work out?

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Rear springs up front with a low ride height. So did you remove the overloads from the rear pack? Did you add any extra rear springs or other spings to the rear pack when you put them up front? I am just curious how low low is. I too have high steer and rears in front and while the steering is my limiting factor on droop it wouldnt matter anyway as everything is pushing its limits. Basically I would not change a think on my steering to enable more droop because I dont think I would actually get anymore

 

[H8PVMNT]

Right now I am running them with the top three and a fourth cut down thin leaf on the bottom and about a 5" shackle. I redrilled the center pin holes to work with the stock steering, after adding the crossover I will put them back in the stock rear position to get the front end forward. They are pretty soft but have been OK with some rather stiff monotube shocks. I added a winch and now I plan to put a long flat overload with a loose clamp on as the fourth leaf to take up the slack of the winch. I'm guessing this setup neted about 2" of lift and oddly it is surviving pretty well, probably because I'm not asking a ton of uptravel with them since I dont have a drop hanger or anything we would usually use on a real badass setup.

I was looking for more travel and a better ride with 1.5-2" of lift without spending anything and so far it has worked out really well. The overall goal for this pickup is a super trail sleeper build/daily driver and only use cheap or free parts to do it. It should look as old man as possible but have as much capability as can be fit without getting all huge and built looking. It is really fun to drive. It has taken a while but if you wait good things come without the cost. It has lockers front and rear, better than stock travel and soon to have crossover and dual t-cases. Probably only up to about $1,500 total invenstment now with the tires and dual adapter... Adapter was on sale!

I guess the best way to show the amount of lift is a photo...

 

[ntsqd]

After moving the drag link arm & taper down on the RS arm I was able to keep a straight drag link. Mine is an '84, not sure how the first gen frames might differ, if they do.
One thing that I do notice is spring wrap under heavy braking - which causes a mild dart to the right. "Braking steer" as it were. Since I cut off the tower on this housing and had to remove the frame bracket to clear the IFS box mounting bolts I won't be putting the stock torque rod back on, but something like it may be needed if it really starts to become a problem.

I like your concept, I think that I'd like to go more or less in the same direction but I'll need to off those pre-runner fenders in favor of some mildly cut stockers.