Crankcase venting - Which option is best?

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The engine I swapped into my 80 series had a road draft tube. On a cabover Mitsubishi, a road draft tube isn't so much of a concern, but on a Land-Cruiser where the engine is out front, it causes the truck to smell like oil and wafts smoke into the underhood area. I want to deal with this as I can't stand the smell and smoke.

There are three options I can see, all of them have their advantages and disadvantages.

1 - Route vent into airbox, before air filter (on atmospheric side). This involves running a hose from the valve cover to the air filter housing. I'd have to weld on a bung of some sort. Easy, but results in oily mess in the airbox, and a gummed up air filter, unless I use a catch can.

2 - Route down, and into exhaust via a slash cut pipe. The theory is that by introducing a slash cut pipe into the exhaust, a venturi is created by the exhaust gases, which pulls a vacuum on the crankcase. The fumes go out the tailpipe and, due to the heat of the exhaust, are likely partially dissipated. Due to the underhood arrangement, this is the cleanest option, and requires no maintenance. The intercooler and turbo stay clean. Downside is that if there is too much backpressure, it can pressurize the crankcase. If I was using straight through exhaust, I could see this being the best option, but with a stock muffler I think there might be a bit of back pressure.

3 - Vent into airbox post filter. This is not good as the turbo can pull a vacuum between the turbo and the filter, which pulls a vacuum on the crankcase, which can be hard on seals, etc. I have a hard time seeing more than a couple of inches vacuum between a filter and engine, and a modern PCV system on a gasser pulls a vacuum anyways, without effect. The upside is that it would keep the air filter oil-free, downsides as above. This is probably the cleanest option as the 93-94 FZJ80 already has the bung for the hose, which was for the air injection system.


Not sure what the best option is. I like the simplicity of the exhaust exit, and it would reduce the amount of underhood plumbing, but the other options are also more environmentally friendly.
 
JL,

attached is a brochure of the Provent I purchased (have yet to install yet) read up on it in the brochure. There are a couple diff ways you can rig it, one where you drain every so many ??? or can direct it back into somehting or other?? Just throwing this out there, pretty $$$ though, I think it was like $150

R
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1 - Route vent into airbox, before air filter (on atmospheric side). This involves running a hose from the valve cover to the air filter housing.

Your air filter is going to be a MESS in no time.

3 - Vent into airbox post filter. This is not good as the turbo can pull a vacuum between the turbo and the filter, which pulls a vacuum on the crankcase, which can be hard on seals, etc. I have a hard time seeing more than a couple of inches vacuum between a filter and engine, and a modern PCV system on a gasser pulls a vacuum anyways, without effect.

This is the way to go. Its not hard on seals - as you say virtually all gassers operate with slightly negative crankcase pressure as due several diesel Toyotas (13BT, for example).
 
There is no good reason to feed dirty oil soaked air to your engine. If you are going to feed it back to the engine do it before the filter or use the vent box such as the one Roberto posted. Racor also makes one. These filters seperate the oil from the air, oil runs back down a hose into the oil pan.

A turbo can draw enough air to start sucking oil from the oil pan. Not an option in my book. It needs a vent not a positive draw to remove it.

There was a reason that vent went to the ground in the rig it came from. Most diesels will have some pressure in the crankcase due to blow by. Pretty much the culprit of the nasty dark oil you get during an oil change.

My 3B has the simple back to the ground pipe and no you can't smell it, even when idling all day in the woods. Besides it lubricates the front driveshaft....

Tony

Amaurer, how does the 13BT vent? What creates the negative pressure? Just asking to learn more about these things....
 
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how does the 13BT vent? What creates the negative pressure? Just asking to learn more about these things....

13BT/12HT/1HD-T = From the valve cover a tube goes to the intake air, post filter, pre-turbo.

gb
 
There is no good reason to feed dirty oil soaked air to your engine. If you are going to feed it back to the engine do it before the filter or use the vent box such as the one Roberto posted. Racor also makes one. These filters seperate the oil from the air, oil runs back down a hose into the oil pan.

A turbo can draw enough air to start sucking oil from the oil pan. Not an option in my book. It needs a vent not a positive draw to remove it.

There was a reason that vent went to the ground in the rig it came from. Most diesels will have some pressure in the crankcase due to blow by. Pretty much the culprit of the nasty dark oil you get during an oil change.

My 3B has the simple back to the ground pipe and no you can't smell it, even when idling all day in the woods. Besides it lubricates the front driveshaft....

Tony

Amaurer, how does the 13BT vent? What creates the negative pressure? Just asking to learn more about these things....

The 13BT vents from the valve cover to the intake duct: after the air filter and before the turbo. There is always some negative pressure at all points in the intake (upstream of the turbo, that is) - from the restriction of the air filter and from viscous effects caused by the duct tubing itself.

Unless your vent is right at the pan-level you're not going to suck oil out of the pan... which would be really stupid. For vents in the side cover or valve cover thats not an issue. Certainly Toyota thought it acceptable for the 13BT, 12HT, 1HDT and 1HZ - all of which had vents between the air filter and turbo to the valve cover.

This arrangement is as common as grass for other mfg.s as well - I don't know why the 3B crowd is so nervous about it. I think Toyota was just aiming for the most flexible arrangement possible so the 3B could be used in various applications without having to worry about vent lines for various intake geometries - so they put a tube to atmosphere.

[Also, there is some debate on this forum about diesel runaway due to oil in the intake, however in a thread several years ago I went through a large number of the posts I could find on the internet and 100% of the cases were caused by turbo seals blowing oil, not from sucking oil from the crankcase vent or from blowby gas.]
 
Oh, I forgot the later versions of the 2H also have the same arrangement. See the small tube directly from the valve cover to the venturi. Lots of negative pressure there, I'd imagine:
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Here's the vent location for the 13BT:
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This is the 1HDT:

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JL,

attached is a brochure of the Provent I purchased (have yet to install yet) read up on it in the brochure.

That's funny, I also have a brand new provent sitting in the box waiting to be fitted.
I will be fitting mine to vent back into the intake between the air-filter and turbo. Before the filter will just plug the filter up with oil unless you have an excellent filter like the provent.

I've been running with my own home-made air/oil seperator for years. My Isuzu came with one but it couldn't cope with some engine trouble I was having (bad rings, chewed bores). I made a better seperating one but it struggles to cope with the flow from high sustained load. The provent should sort all of that.
 
Here is my plumbing special....:flipoff2:

Works very well, fumes vent under the truck and all the oil is contained in the catch can, I have only had it on about 4000km and have drained around a tablespoon.

Cheers
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Amaurer and Greg B

Thanks for the info. Maybe the big concern with the 3B is because of the location of the road tube, out the side cover. Wonder if any one has put a hole in the valve cover to move the vent outlet higher on the engine?

Doesn't look like any of those other engines use a low outlet for the vent.

On a side note, on some of the boats we work on we find older cummins 6BT's with a "road tube" dumping out just over the air cleaner. Early Hino's sometimes would just dump in the bilge!

Tony
 
Not intended to be. Prefer to drain outside the engine bay.:D

How do you get the oil out of the catch can? Doesn't it need some sort of drain? Thats where you also lost me.

But nice stainless work by the way

Tony
 

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