Crank bolt seal replacement cost?

[MARKTLC80]

All,
My 80 developed a leak form Crank bolt seal and I was quoted $1000 for the labor, I have read multiple threads and it seems that it's a pain on the @ss to do the job so possibly that explains the high cost. The quote was form a local mechanic and I don't even want to get a quote form the Toyota dealer since they are always a lot more. Just don't want to get overcharged and wondering if anyone knows the cost of the repair. Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[azTony]

Do it yourself for the cost of the seal and while you are in there, do other PM that is right in front of you like the oil pump gasket. The cost is under $10 and only labor involved. The only thing that is needed as far as special tools is a torque wrench capable of 310 ft/lb. If you are gonna pay a grand to have it done, bring it to me.


Search is your friend

 

[Kernal]

Seems high, but are you sure the leak is the crank seal or something else? Often the oil pump cover leaks at a higher volume than the crank seal IME. There is also a crank position sensor that can drip and the front main oil pan arch. If you have the crank seal done you should replace the oil pump cover O-ring at the same time as the crank pulley has to come off for both jobs.

Here's a link to give you an idea about sources of leaks and the work involved:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html

 

[kidglove13]

When I did my front crank seal and oil pump cover gasket I went to the local toyota dealer for the parts which were about $60 IIRC
But when I was there I asked them what it would cost for them to do the front crank seal and oil pump cover gasket and they told me around $1200 to do both
So $1000 is not far off
The price is so high because they remove all the stuff in front of the motor ie. radiator etc.
The job is a real PITA but very doable, especially if you leave the radiator in place
Just do it your self, go get a 300 lb torque wrench from harbor freight and when you crank on the crank bolt just max out the 300 lb torque wrench and then tighten the bolt abit more after that and you will be good to go.

There is plenty of good threads on DIY for this repair.

 

[scrowley]

X3. It is not the hardest job.....at least not $1000 worth. Always feels good to save yourself the $$$ doing it yourself. For a weekend wrencher a day is good to do crank seal and oil pump seal. make sure to get the new oil pump cover screws from Toyota and #3 phillips to take them off.

 

[Rwhat]

Its actually easy to do. I did mine with the radiator in place. I just removed the fan shroud and fan. The trick is to the a phillips bit that fits tight and tap it in 4-5 times before you unscrew it.

Just break the nut loose using the starter method. I also used a honing stone to "resurface" the oil cover flat.

 

[Frankencruiser]

It's a pain in the ass, but it only took me about 4 hours to do myself. Definitely not worth 1k to me, but mechanics charge what people will pay. Find a shop, or traveling mechanic (try craigslist) that will work by the hour instead of by the book.

 

[steffan]

I don't understand why it should be such a pain: drop the front skid plate, the belts and your there. I left the radiator, fan and shroud in there with no issues. There are plenty of posts to guide you through it, no big deal

 

[MARKTLC80]

Thank you All for the information but the reason that I wanted to do it thru a mechanic is that I live in a condo and they don't allow wrenching in the garage. I think you guys have convinced me to do it on my own I will use my friends garage for the weekend and try to knock this thing out. How safe is the starter method of undoing the bolt some opinions are negative and some people say that this is the easiest way to get it free. Can I get a larger torque ranch that is over 300fpt? and will give me an exact needed number?

 

[MARKTLC80]

I don't understand why it should be such a pain: drop the front skid plate, the belts and your there. I left the radiator, fan and shroud in there with no issues. There are plenty of posts to guide you through it, no big deal

Honestly I don't understand ether because I have never done it yet, but as far as most of the reading that I have done on it here on mud it is a pain.

 

[Chip]

I just did the crank seal & oil pump cover last week. I used the listed thread below as a guide and it was right on. The starter bump worked perfectly using a 3/4 inch breaker bar and tying the handle end up against the PS underside frame rail w/ a very slight starter bump. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet w/ #3 philips to remove the 7 screws from oil pump cover...but add pressure to the ratchet as you initially break them free to avoid stripping. I had one stubborn one that needed special attention to remove. The rest was a breeze following instructions. The suggestion to lightly grease the oil pump rubber seal was very helpful in keeping it seated while putting the cover back in place on replacement. Also, I used the old removed crank seal on top of the new seal to light hammer it into place.

 

[steffan]

Exactly - should be able to do it in an afternoon easy. Got my crank nut off with the bump method ( 1/2" drive - I think the key is to have it everything tight/ secure before you hit it). No fancy tools needed -

 

[Schwaz80]

What is bumping the starter? You actually turn the key in the ignition for a quick second? So I am assuming that the crank spins clockwise and the crank bolt is threded reverse?

 

[Kernal]

It's all covered in the link above. But the quick answer is using a 3/4" breaker bar you put a 30mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and shove the breaker bar handle up under the passenger side frame rail or thereabouts, then with the high tension lead disconnected from the distributor you turn the ignition key to start, just a flick or a "bump" and that should be enough to loosen the bolt.

 

[Rwhat]

What is bumping the starter? You actually turn the key in the ignition for a quick second? So I am assuming that the crank spins clockwise and the crank bolt is threded reverse?

Nope, the bolt is a standard right hand thread. Put the breaker handle underneath the passenger side frame and use a strap to hold it.

DONT FORGET TO PULL YOUR DISTRIBUTOR WIRE FROM THE CAP TO COIL OR YOUR ENGINE WILL START UP

 

[kidglove13]

Thank you All for the information but the reason that I wanted to do it thru a mechanic is that I live in a condo and they don't allow wrenching in the garage. I think you guys have convinced me to do it on my own I will use my friends garage for the weekend and try to knock this thing out. How safe is the starter method of undoing the bolt some opinions are negative and some people say that this is the easiest way to get it free. Can I get a larger torque ranch that is over 300fpt? and will give me an exact needed number?

I think the factory spec is what 320 or something like that.
If you can find one that goes higher than that great but the difference between 300 and 320 is very minimal and cranking on it al ittle more after word will get you where you need to be.
It does appear simple to do but every truck will be different. It is alot tighter than you think between the rad and the engine. Plus you need to be careful not to hit the rad and damage it.
Plus the oil pump cover philips head screws are very soft and are very easy to strip. you strip one your kind of screwed and you will be takeing the front clip of the truck off if you strip a screw and cant remove it.
It is doable without a doubt but I would take your time when removing the screws.
I think mine took me about 5-6 hours with the radiator still in place.
But I took my time and there was alot of cursing.
I would not pay $1000 for someone to do it.
Have fun and do it because then you wont need to worry about it for another 150-200K

 

[robertaleon]

There's also the "14mm deep socket / torque converter method" that I used and is covered in some of the threads. I was a bit concerned of bits flying using the starter method so used my wife to turn the crank bolt and I watched the torque converter bolt/socket till it wedged against the side. After that - apply consistent pressure to break the bolt free. Use a good (Craftsman, SnapOn, Mac) socket - not a HF! Some have broken sockets doing this method and the vast majority prefer the Bump Start method but wanted to offer a different method just in case.

No matter what - do it yourself and save huge $$$. This is a great opportunity for additional cheap PM as others have mentioned. If using the starter method - heed RWHAT's warming and pull the cap/coil wire. And one more thread for reference - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...l-oil-pump-gasket-auto-my-days-work-pics.html


Good luck.

 

[Rwhat]

As kidglove13 warned about the radiator, i like to use a piece of cardboard to protect the fins.

 

[TripleThreat]

I was going to do it myself. But out of curiosity called my mechanic who is a Toyota specialist for $700 I got the crank seal, oil pump seal, and upper and lower oil pan done. Could I have done it myself probably was i ready to take on the upper oil pan no.

Just wanted to give an idea of at least one mechanics pricing.

 

[OGBeno]

I was going to do it myself. But out of curiosity called my mechanic who is a Toyota specialist for $700 I got the crank seal, oil pump seal, and upper and lower oil pan done. Could I have done it myself probably was i ready to take on the upper oil pan no.

Just wanted to give an idea of at least one mechanics pricing.

That's a good price. The upper oil pan is a royal PITA. Especially if you are doing it without a lift.