How to replace crankshaft seal and oil pump gasket in an auto. My days work with pics

[crooozer]

Well, I started the job at 7:30am and have just finished and the time is now 2:30 so 7 hours work altogether including cleaning.

I first bought a 1/2 drive breaker bar and 30mm socket to remove the crankshaft bolt, but was worried it might not make the journey alive so borrowed another tool from a mechanic, same 1/2" size but this one is hammered with a large dumpy and uses force. I decided against this because I found it too hard to hold the harmonic balancer while cranking the nut, it just turns too easily and using a 14mm socket placed on a bolt in the driveplate was too dangerous to me.

I ended up using the 1/2" drive socket and just 'bumped' the starter motor, took the bolt out no problems at all! Anyhow, on with the procedure.

I first drained the oil, and replaced the oil filter. Let it drain for a good 5 minutes, then replenish with new oil. Remove the steering damper (impossible to do without this off) I didn't worry about pulling the fan or shroud out, you don't need to by the way.

 

[crooozer]

Next, I removed all three pulley belts, and the dreaded crankshaft bolt...
To remove the lone aircon belt, you will see a small pulley, loosen the holder bolt and also the bolt in the middle of the pulley itself to remove this belt. To remove both drive-belts, you will need to reach right up from below and loosen off two bolts on the alternator, you'll know which ones they are, one can be best reached from the passenger side wheel arch if you turn your wheels, and the other is hard because it sits right between the tigh belts. I loosened the one from the side first, pulled the belts to get some slack from the bolt and then it wasn't so bad, no need to loosen the one in the middle of this pulley. Pull the belts off, swing them around and over the front of the fan and they are out.

Bumping the starter with my 450mm long 1/2" drive breaker bar and 30mm socket worked well. And the harmonic balancer came off by force of hand, it was pretty hard to pull but slippery and greasy enough that the knock of a regular steel hammer from the back took the rest of it off. I have taken a photo of the 'key' from where it sat for me, at the top (which is perfect) but it could probably be anywhere, take a guess and roll with it. you may be able to use force to turn the balancer around so it sits at the top though. For what it's worth my 'mark' (little indent in the pulley) in the harmonic balancer was at the very bottom of the vehicle, slightly off one side. I don't know what this is for exactly but as long as you lign the 'key' up when re-installing, you're fine. In fact, the truck purrs and drives better than it ever has!

I took a picture of the 'key' because I'd never seen it before today.

 

[crooozer]

Here are my new parts and tools. Please note, I only really used the breaker bar, and a socket set. Both 1/2" drive. Oh! and a hammer.

And please note: Instead of disabling spark from the distributor (you DON'T really want your truck to fire/start up when removing the crank bolt) I simply removed the 15a EFI (fuel) fuse.

 

[crooozer]

Next was removing the crank seal. This was HARD!
After using a flathead screwdriver covered with tape as to not cause any nicks in the crank cover, (the thing wasn't budging) I used some long nose plyers from my Leatherman, these grip really well and I was able to lever it out like I was with the screwdriver until it popped out.

It was just as difficult to reinstall the replacement. I just made sure it went in level, and then used brute strength (grunting noises and all) to get it back in, this only went so far, so I used a small socket and tapped it all around with a hammer being careful not to hit my radiator, I moved the fan blades depending where I was working at the time.

Next up was the scary part. I did NOT want to strip any of these oil pump cover screws because that would mean the job would have just become another 4 or so hours long because I'd have to remove the radiator. I actually went in to a tool shop a few days prior with one of my replacement screws and found a phillips bit that fit absolutely perfect, and also bought a 1/2" drive socket piece. I used my 1/2" breaker bar and this worked excellent. I used a hammer to hit the phillips head bit into the screw on all 7, and then just used a quick twist on the end of the breaker and they all came out no problems at all.

The gasket wasn't as bad as I would have thought. It was broken in two places and I had to remove it from the inside of the pump with a screwdriver.

Replaced it using a bit of vasoline to keep the gasket from falling out and lubed up the inner wheel. Then placed the old cover over the top being VERY careful not to knock the gasket, you need this to sit snug or you'll be doing the job all over again.. Then screwed all 7 screws back in about how tight they came out.

 

[crooozer]

I then put everything back on reverse of how I took it out and tightened the crank bolt same as I took it out, with a 14mm socket placed in the driveplate, did it up as tight as I possibly could and then degreased the engine. Took her for a drive and checked for leaks. All good! There are no more leaks.

When I started the engine for the first time after doing the job the oil pressure was very high and revs were nuts. It took around 3 minutes for the revs to slowly drop down with the oil pressure. This was caused by the new oil settling into the engines parts I'm guessing, revs were at 2500 when I first fired her up!. All good! It's great to see a clean engine underneath.

 

[crooozer]

It's a very greasy job..

Thanks for reading and I wish you all the best

 

[timer00]

nice work, when you bumped the starter I assume you secured the breaker bar to the frame somehow?
nice tip about getting a 1/2" phillips bit and using a 1/2" breaker bar I will have to try this when I do mine soon.

 

[crooozer]

Yea man, I just tied a bit of nylon rope around it and had it hard pressed up against the side-rail. I didn't want it to get shocked and break cause it was the only socket I had.

 

[timer00]

great job with the pics and walk through. I have a 3/4" breaker bar and 30mm impact socket for this job and a 3/4" torque wrench ready to go once it warms up a bit around here.

I'll have to get myself one of those 1/2" socket bits for the screws.

 

[crooozer]

Definitely, the 1/2" bar, perfect screw size and adaptor is a must if you ask me. It works great.

 

[Kernal]

croooser: Did you do all the work from above; no jacking up of the vehicle? You didn't mention using a torque wrench for reinstalling the crank bolt? Also, do you have a photo of the mark on the crank pulley you referred to which was at the bottom (6 o'clock position) when the key was at the top (12 o'clock)??

Edit: Also noticed; your engine doesn't have the knock sensor at the front of the main pan like the US 1FZFE has, looks like a plug in the hole??

 

[arndog123]

Good job man. I would've used OEM Toyota belts though.

 

[crooozer]

Hey Kernal!

I did about 90% of the work from under the truck, no jacks, thats a part of the reason I've actually taken a keen interest in mechanics because I don't need a jack. No, I don't have a torque wrench that will go to 305lb, 250 was the biggest I could find, and the guy who I borrowed it from needed it back so I just tightened the hell out of it, it's not going anywhere and it's not leaking. No photo of the mark on the bottom of the balancer, it's the mark you use for timing though. In regard to the knock sensor, I've heard of it, but have no idea what it is?

Oh and ps: I did the dizzy o-ring too! took me a good hour because I couldn't find a 3/8 socket and extension to get the bottom bolt out.. I find now that my oil pressure is a little higher than it used to be. It sits just over the 3rd out of 4 marks on the gauge when driving, and doesn't drop past half way when idling. It sometimes used to get down to the first line on the gauge, so pretty different!
I also noted the really high revs upon first start-up of engine after doing the o-ring and reconnecting the battery, thought I'd got something wrong, turned it off and restarted and all was fine. I've gone for a good spin since and everything is good.

croooser: Did you do all the work from above; no jacking up of the vehicle? You didn't mention using a torque wrench for reinstalling the crank bolt? Also, do you have a photo of the mark on the crank pulley you referred to which was at the bottom (6 o'clock position) when the key was at the top (12 o'clock)??

Edit: Also noticed; your engine doesn't have the knock sensor at the front of the main pan like the US 1FZFE has, looks like a plug in the hole??

 

[kidglove13]

Glad you got it done

 

[timer00]

When you pulled the EFI fuse I think and always when you disconnect the battery you reset the ECU and it takes time to relearn again causing a weird idle at startup, etc. Take about 5-10 miles and things usually return to normal.

 

[nodaksn3]

Nice job!Mine's next. Thanks for posting. Ned

 

[powderpig]

If you want to hold a auto trans crank shaft. You can use a 1/2 inch extension 6 " long to hold in place the drive plate for the torque convertor. You can access this through the area where the plastic is at the back of the engine, between the oil pan and the trans. If you use the female end of the extension in the big hole in the plate(about 6 of them). and the male end toward one side of the aluminum housing of the oil pan. This will hold the crank in spot to either remove the crank bolt or to install it. Not my trick, so other mud member. I do use this trick a bunch.
on later 1fz engines with the crank position sensors(OBDII ones). The drive gear for the oil pump is not keyed. But the eariler ones with out OBDII are key slightly. So the potentinal for the oil pump to not turn if the bolt is not tight enough is a concern.
Is your engine in OZ a obd 1 engine or a OBD II engine?
If OBD II, I would recommend that you put a torque wrench on it to make sure it is close.

 

[Kernal]

croooser; So you worked flat on your back reaching up?? It's hard for me to picture how you would position yourself without the rig on stands or a lift. As powderpig said; no crank position sensor, what year is your rig?

 

[kidglove13]

Your rig should be high enough off the ground at stock height to work on your back without a problem.
I know my truck was almost to high and it made it a pain to work on your back and have to reach up.
I think the OP has a 94

 

[crooozer]

Hey man!

I just lay flat on my back, you don't need any stands.
The truck is a 40th anniv 97 model. as Kid said, it's almost too high in some spots like the oil filter and drivebelt pulley (to loosen off)

I'm not sure if I have OBD1 or 2?

croooser; So you worked flat on your back reaching up?? It's hard for me to picture how you would position yourself without the rig on stands or a lift. As powderpig said; no crank position sensor, what year is your rig?