Cracked block on 1HD-T motor

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Just thought I'd share this with you guys here.

Due to a problem with the cooling system pressurising, I decided to take the head off the other day. I couldn't see any signs of obvious head gasket or head problems once it was off...
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... but there was water in No6 bore, there was also a slight ring of fresh rust before I cleaned it up.
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Have a look at this close up..... doesn't look good.
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So, I ordered some of THIS which provided a definitive answer.

Not very clear images but I'm sure you see the results :(
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Yup... it has a cracked bore, has anyone ever come across this before :confused:
 
I would check with a shop that rebuilds commercial diesel engines and get their opinion. Most, but not all of the engines they see are going the be sleeved. However, they may have a solution for you other than a new block.
 
Just thought I'd share this with you guys here.


Yup... it has a cracked bore, has anyone ever come across this before :confused:

Wow, I haven't heard of this before. I'd suggest also posting this in the Diesel/24v section here on 'Mud. See what the guys who frequent that area have to say...
 
The Machine shop will just sleeve that bore no need for a new block. I would also get them to check the other cylinders thickness to see how they look.
 
I would check with a shop that rebuilds commercial diesel engines and get their opinion. Most, but not all of the engines they see are going the be sleeved. However, they may have a solution for you other than a new block.

The Machine shop will just sleeve that bore no need for a new block. I would also get them to check the other cylinders thickness to see how they look.

How reliable would that make the motor if it was sleeved, would that not make that cylinder weaker than the others?
 
I am a firm believer in Block sleeving. When it comes time for a rebuild it is far easier because you dont need to hone or go oversize. Pull the old barrels out and put in the new. It is just the initial machining for the sleeves that is $$$$$$$ Wow nice cross hatching
 
I am a firm believer in Block sleeving. When it comes time for a rebuild it is far easier because you dont need to hone or go oversize. Pull the old barrels out and put in the new. It is just the initial machining for the sleeves that is $$$$$$$ Wow nice cross hatching

I thought the 'barrels' were part of the block... so can't be pulled out :confused:

As there doesn't appear to be much material between the cylinders and water jacket, there isn't much for the machine shop to 'play' with.
 
they just bore the sleeves out and put in new ones.
if the block isnt warped then that would be the perfect rebuild.
just make sure the machine shop is qualified to and has the better machinery to do sleeving.
 
Sleeving is common.

x2 on finding a good machine shop. Quite a bit of material will have to be machined out for the sleeves which generates alot of heat. When I was considering sleeving my 1hd-t, the rebuilder said that it would take a while to sleeve properly due to overnight cooling periods. Also said they had to be done in a sequence (i.e. every second one) to reduce heat concentration. I ended up going oversize, but not an option in your case.

Just passing it along, as all rebuilders would be familiar with resleeving, but maybe not sleeving blocks that didn't come with factory jackets. Any oldtimer would.....

You can get sleeves (called jackets in OZ) for the 1hd-t from: Engine Australia

Try posting in the Diesel section and best of luck.
 

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