Crack in Block-need help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter merbesfield
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merbesfield
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- #22
Thanks Lou
merbesfield
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- #23
Has anyone every drilled and tapped the holes for the P/S? I know it is not hard to drill and tap but just wondering about this one. the depth, exact location etc. I guess since I have the original it would not be too difficult to transfer all the info over the the new block.
merbesfield
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- #24
Can someone post pics of the side of the block showing the holes for the p/s bracket in the later 2F blocks? I don't have any pics and do not have access to my block for some time. Thanks
merbesfield
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- #26
Ok, here is a question for you guys that build a lot of motors and know these engines. Would I be crazy to ignore the cracks and put this engine back together. Just wondering what is the worst that could happen, it could throw a rod or whatever? Here is my rationalization. 1. I have all the parts now, not like I am buying all new parts for a rebuild. 2. It was running just fine before I decided to tear it apart and reseal it at which time I discovered the cracks. 3. I will not drive this thing more than 500 miles per year. 4. If it does go, I could always change it out then. 4. All the parts that I have are broken in on this block, how much of a chance am I taking by switching all these used parts over to a different block vs. staying with the block that they were married to so to speak. 5. The cracks seem to be minor, but what do I know. Let me know if I am totally off base. I realize there are no guarantees, but I am wanting to get opinions. I do have a spare 78 2F in an older 40 that I could aways use if this one goes south or I could pull it and use it in the LV and put this motor back in the 40. Thanks for the help.
merbesfield
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- #27
Ok, next question, has anyone ever seen or used Full-Torque thread inserts? Thread Inserts I talked to the CEO and he says that his product is designed to fix these exact situations. Once the insert is in place it becomes stronger than before w/o the crack. Supposedly their patented upward spirals draw the surrounding metal in making it stronger. Here is the link the one I would need. Full-Torque Flush Through (FFT)
Looks interesting to me for the obvious reasons.
Looks interesting to me for the obvious reasons.
merbesfield
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- #29
I don't know how much the inserts cost, but the block does not need any machining, it is already good to go. Add in the fact that the block has already been cleaned and painted, new freeze plugs and some seals done, I don't think it will be the same. I agree, if we had seen this crack in the beginning I would toss the block, but unfortunately, this engine work has been as backwards the entire time
Plus all the parts are broken in and balanced so to speak with this block. If I get a new block and try to use my old parts I could be creating an issue there? Just thinking out loud so I can hear other peoples opinion. As for blocks, I have not been able to find one that is cheap and the same year. One Mudder has offered a block for free, but I have to go get it. Very gracious of him. I drove this motor in the 55 before it was pulled. It drove very well and I never expected to see the crack. 
If it was mine and I knew the engine was fine otherwise, I would put an insert in it and drive it (and then sell it to Greg Mushro). The only thing I would have worried about is the bolt pulling out, but I think the insert will fix that.
My 2 cents (but this is a reason you never buy a used car from a mechanic).
My 2 cents (but this is a reason you never buy a used car from a mechanic).
I don't know how much the inserts cost, but the block does not need any machining, it is already good to go. Add in the fact that the block has already been cleaned and painted, new freeze plugs and some seals done, I don't think it will be the same. I agree, if we had seen this crack in the beginning I would toss the block, but unfortunately, this engine work has been as backwards the entire time
You have to machine the block to accept those inserts. That entails drilling and tapping the block. Which means pulling everything out anyway. If you do not, there is a good chance that you will get a small chunk of metal shavings floating around waiting to cause damage.. Price the inserts and the work to install them..
They may indeed fix the problem. But it sure seems to me that you already have the motor apart, Why take the risk? Pinhead is right, it may work, but it might not. I would not take the chance myself. How long do you want the motor to last after you button it back up? Did you put new rings in it? New bearings? The "balanced" part of the 2F is the part you would move to the new block.
BTW, I have to ask, are you sure it had factory power steering?
merbesfield
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- #32
Hi Mace and Pinhead, I appreciate the help and opinions. I received another email from Gary at Full Torque. I am convinced that the insert will fix the problem and he says that the repair will be 50% stronger than before. Who knows how he comes up with that % but after studying the product I can understand how it will be stronger than before. And certainly at least as strong as a solid block without any cracks. I will price the inserts and having the machine shop do the install, even though I think it would be possible for me to install them, but I will not try. I am not too concerned about the metal shavings, just have to be careful. Another thing that I find very interesting after studying the block is that the factory bolts do not go into the block as far as they could, which to me contributes to the cracking. By my measurements, the bolt only goes into the block about 17mm, yet there is enough room to go 34mm, so if the thread insert takes advantage of this it will even be stronger. These measurements do not include the shoulder. I also asked Gary if I should use studs and he says it is absolutely not necessary and he would not waste the money. The one thing I need to confirm is what is the size of the crank bolts? I could not tell when I measured. I got the pitch, 2.0 but would like a confirmation of the size. 14mm 16mm? Thanks
merbesfield
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- #33
Oh yea, Mace the steering is definitely factory and I understand the confusion. Were not suppose to be any on 78', ps began in 79. This confused SOR as well. But all the parts are factory and it does not look added bc every part was there, including the cooler lines etc. I can't remember the build date, but I will try to remember to look. This was one of the main reasons I decided to use it in my LV bc it was a total package all from the factory. All I had to do was convert the rear to disc which worked great. The pig was wasted with rust.
I know of several available here in atlanta.
merbesfield
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- #35
Kiel, I think I have found a solution to my block by using a special thread insert that fixes the problem and makes it 50% stronger than stock. I really hope I don't end up having to go with a replacement block due to all the work I have done so far, but if the insert will not work I will have no choice. I appreciate the help and should know more by the end of the week. Thanks Mark
