couple questions (1 Viewer)

[Jeromy]

I have been working on my FJ-mini project and ran into a couple problems. First up is the castor/ pinion angle. the truck has a stock FJ80 front axle, front control arms, and stock front springs. The problem is the pinion points way higher than the t-case. it would be perfect if I didn't have my t-case doubler and longer transmission. I am using a Slee DC rear fj-80 drive shaft for 6 inch lift as my front shaft. I know I could use the castor correction bushings to bring my pinion angle down some but that would make the castor angle off. Should I even worry about it considering this is a trailer queen?

the other question has to do with the rear springs. The truck sits slightly higher in the rear than I would like with the stock FJ-80 rear coils. IIRC 4-runner guys use Stock FJ-80 springs to lift their truck, so could I use stock 4-runner springs to lower mine? I would assume the springs fit on the axle the same way...can someone conferm this?

 

[EVILSPOTTER]

What is your caster angle now? Unless you have already cut & turned the axle lowering the pinion would give you more caster, do you think you have too much?

edit: Just went & looked, the difference between '80 rear coils & runner rear coils seems to be about 4", so swapping in runner coils would drop you qite a bit.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

However, 4Runner and 80-series coils are interchangable. We've done the stock 80 springs and cranked T-Bars on a couple 2nd gen Runners.

 

[Jeromy]

thanks, I will get some pics of of the pinion angle and castor tonight. If I lower the pinion to point it at the t-case it places my panhard in a bind.

I will look around and see if I can't find some 2-3 inch lift springs for a 4-runner.

 

[Tapage]

C&T would be another ( more job ) option .. but let's see this pic with the steering lincage and figure what happend there ..

 

[ontherox]

Couple of my own questions...umm?? wtf is that thing lol,looks pretty sweet.Seems like awful big meats to have on yota axles?

 

[Jeromy]

well, finally got the arms and axle mounted where they will go, here is a pic of the pinion.

What do you think? should I even worry about it on a trail truck? the steering will be full hyrdo behind the axle. and I am thinking of cutting the bushings off the front panhard and drilling and tapping for hiems on both ends.

The truck started life as a 82 mini, I rolled it the 3rd time I had the truck out there. I bought and FJ80 from motoloco for the axles and just decided to use whatever parts I could off the 80 on the mini. So for it has FJ80 axles, suspension, seats, grill, brake master, well you get the idea. I traded a set of 44s for these 39s. I know a couple guys running running fj80 axles on 42s so I hope they hold up. I will upgrade to longs and my target weight is around 3200.

I have a build thread here
My toyota - Texas4x4.org

 

[Tapage]

Looks you gonna need rotate de complete Axle from the control arms position or where they hold the axle .. with it you will rotate the 3rd member and the tie rod also ..

Somehting like a drop braket ( like MAF drop brakets ) could do the job ..

 

[Isotel]

What is your caster angle at in those photos?? It looks like a Negative Caster (Assuming you did not cut and turn the axle)

Negative caster will Steer like Dog Poo, and be downright Dangerous on the road.. I would just cut and turn the knuckles for 4-5 degrees of positive caster

 

[Jeromy]

just found my angle meter. The axle is sitting at 2 degrees negative castor assuming that when the spring plate is level the castor is zero, and may be better once I get the wieght on the truck and adjust the ride hieght. The pinion is sitting at 10 degrees and the drive shaft at 4 degrees.

 

[Tapage]

Take the measurement over the knuckle but looks like sure you are in the dark side of the caster ..

 

[Isotel]

The axle is sitting at 2 degrees negative castor

Yea somehow you need to rotate that sucker back to atleast 2 degrees positive, Caster Correction Bushings would do the trick, and help with your DS angle.. But the Angle of the shaft is not as important as the Caster on a trail rig..

What T-case are you going to run??

I love the 1st gen Pickups! thats what i learned to wheel in!

 

[LT]

I would suggest going with a + 4* caster and 10* on the pinion. Set your axle up on a jig and get the correct measurements on your pinion angle and caster angle. If on the jig it is - 2* caster and + 4* on the pinion you will want to add *6 to the caster and 6* to the pinion for a total of + 12* on the knuckle. When you set the pinion angle up at + 10* your caster should be sitting right at + 4*.

 

[Mace]

With a high pinion you really should not need to point the pinion up at all. Even more so with the system you currently have. I am assuming that the front DS is a standard unit (not a double carden)


2 choices, build new links (not tough all things considered)

Or put suspension correction bushings in there. Although I am not sure you can get enough misallignment out of a set of bushing to make up the difference.

 

[Jeromy]

The drive shaft is a double cardian. It is the shaft Slee sales for rear of a lifted FJ80. Not sure on the lenght...but it is long. I run marlin daul transmission with a W56b transmission.
I think after a little more research I have come up with option #3.
homemade X-link.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

I think after a little more research I have come up with option #3.
homemade X-link.

That sounds like an easy way of fixing it...

 

[Tapage]

I don't think that CC bushings would be enought correction in this case .. new control arms, X links I note that any like the drop brakets option .. that would be wast of money coz if you have a chance to make new custom control arms.

 

[Mace]

The drive shaft is a double cardian. It is the shaft Slee sales for rear of a lifted FJ80. Not sure on the lenght...but it is long. I run marlin daul transmission with a W56b transmission.
I think after a little more research I have come up with option #3.
homemade X-link.

I think that is gonna hang down pretty low to get your caster correct..