Couple of pm and leak questions (1 Viewer)

[Buckru]

I was trying to do some maintenance on the truck yesterday and ran into a couple of problems I could use some help with.
1. I noticed some leaking where the rear drive shaft enters into the third member. I checked the FSM to see about replacing a gasket. I was wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the (pinion?) bearing and race while at it. I also noticed a lot of SST's to get that job done but don't have any.
2. There is a slight leak where the speedometer enters into the center diff. I thought I had remembered a thread about two small seals that could be replaced but couldn't find it in the search. If this is the case, how do you pull the cable?
3. I was going to rplace the fuel filter and noticed in the FSM I need to replace 4 gaskets, 2 on the in flow and 2 on the out. The filter came with 4 metal rings and was wondering if those are the correct gaskets rather than a rubber type.
4. My intent was to clean the trottle body. One of my concerns was loosing one of the bolts on the underside of the TB into the engine. Also, do I need to replace the gasket between the TB and the (don't know what its called) thing its bolted to.

The truck has 133,000 on the clock and unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera to provide pics. Thanks in advane for your help.

Buck

 

[alaskacruiser]

Buckru- sidenote: if you haven't replaced the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose- see FAQ) that should be part of your PM as well.

 

[Buckru]

Its on the list.

Buck

 

[cruiserman]

1) pinion seal is there. There's more to it than simply slapping a new bearing in there. You'll need a new crush sleeve. Procedure is in the FSM.

2) o-ring is the typical culprit. 5 minute job. 12mm bolt IIRC.

3) filter should come with 4 copper rings (gaskets)

4) there are 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the intake plus there are various hoses, cables, and connectors to remove. I have not replaced the metal gasket between the TB and intake, but others have. good time to check the valve clearances while you're in there.

 

[Buckru]

Cruiserman,
Can the rear pinon be replaced without all of those SST's listed in the FSM?

Buck

 

[cruiserman]

Never done a pinion seal. Dunno what SSTs would be required. I'll check the manual tonight.

 

[loquito]

Cruiserman,
Can the rear pinon be replaced without all of those SST's listed in the FSM?

Buck

I don't have alot of experiance but if I misslead you someone will correct me.
I am answering your question becouse I have done this leaking Pinnion seal job both front and rear on my previous cruiser.

#1 special tool can all be sourced localy, you need

#1) seal puller, mine is kind of shaped like an upper case T and was 20 bucks at sears.
#2) A torque wrench that will go to I believe 180 foot pound, check your service manual for the correct torque but I do believe it's 180 foot pound. This is for putting the pinnion nut back on.
#3) A spring guage for measuring preload. One of the ones from the sporting goods dept for wieghing trout and bass, Or Marlin Crawler sells a really trick guage that is very reasonably priced.
#4) A punch or chisel or brass drift to resecure the pinnion nut

For the bar that holds the pinnion secure while you torque down on it I had my helper stand on the brakes.
The seal puller can be replace by a large screw driver or something simular. But there is some weight to the advice given about the right tool for the job.

Hey Buck I am not trying to be an -sshole but there is alot of info about just this job on the search function

You will probuble need to search anyway to learn how to first measure the preload of the pinnion as well as set the pre load on the pinnion when you put it back together. Do you have a factory service manual? Dan has them if you don't have one.

I found an impact wrench really helped with getting the nuts Off, I wouldn't use it to put them back on though. Also look for mention of the serated edge on the nuts while you search, there is one side that has serations in it to lock the nut down, you will wear down the serations afecting the locking abilityif you lossen one side over the other, but right now I forget which side to work from, Search. Like I said look around, the other member here explained it so much better than I am.

Most important is get in touch with Cruiser Dan, that way you won't make another trip to get forgoten parts. If Dan mentions that you may also need this, you probubly do. I have never started a job (after getting my parts from Dan) and needed to go out again for some little part my parts person did not mention.I made lots of extra trips to my local dealer becouse of their parts persons as well as my ignorance, Then I met Dan and my wrenching became easyer.

Well its late, I am tired, Please search, the others here are the teachers, I am just a student who has done this job Once. I hope you find something here usefull.
Please Guys add anything I missed or correct me if I am wrong. I will not take offence.
I'll be sleeping and not notice anyway.
Steven

Oh and neither of mine leaked after the fix

 

[loquito]

I forgot to mention that I just replace the seal, washer,nut and I replaced the pinnion flange as mine had a groove in it where the previus seal had made contact.

I did not replace the crush sleave or the bearings, or the slinger, or other parts that are in there that I can not remember right now.
Mine did not need the extra parts and the leaks were fixed

 

[cruiserman]

Did you just reuse the crush sleeve and put the pinion nut back in the same position (same torque)?

 

[Rookie2]

Did you just reuse the crush sleeve and put the pinion nut back in the same position (same torque)?

Seems like I remember there being a pretty important step in there about measuring the pre-load or something before removing the pinion nut??

 

[Buckru]

Thanks,
When I wasx searching before posting I was trying to find info on the speedo gaskets and not the pinion. I will do a search on that subject.
All my parts come from CDan ofcourse. I do ahve most of the tools mentioned, except for an impact wrench. Thanks again for the help.

Buck

 

[loquito]

Did you just reuse the crush sleeve and put the pinion nut back in the same position (same torque)?

I never got deep enough inside the pinnion to worry abou the crush sleeve. as for the Staked nut I used a new one so "IN the same spot" was not an option.
Instead I measured preload before and then after till it was in specks.

When I reread your question I understood better. Yes I just reused the crush sleeve.