Could use a little help.

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jonharis

jonharis

Adventure Imports
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Looking for some help this weekend. I'm installing a body lift and its a pretty I depth process, parts of which require 2 people to make it go smoothly. I am prepping tonight by removing interior panels and parts to gain access to the bolts and hope to do the majority of the work tomorrow. If anyone is around tomorrow and free just let me know. I'll probably get going at 10 or so.
 
I would help but my fiance is having surgery tomorrow and will be recovering over the weekend.
 
That's an acceptable excuse. :cheers: Best wishes.

Well I didn't get done what I set aside the weekend for doing but got a few other things taken care of. Finished up the installation of an IBS Dual Battery Setup, cleaned up some engine wiring, installed a Blue Sea fuse block under the drawers and removed most of the trim pieces in the interior needed to access the body mount bolts.
 
RyanR said:
Why the body lift? Are you switching to 35's?
Click to expand...

Yes sir. Body lift developed by Spressomon after several iterations if various height. That and the spacers that I'm already running eliminate rub for most that have implemented it.

I know the whole anti 35 argument and have gone over it for a couple of years now. some have encouraged it, others think I'm crazy. Yes I'll loose some reliability and may go thru CVs and racks faster but I think I'll appreciate the benefits.

I've seen first hand numerous times running with a bunch of 100s, some with and some without the lift and 35s where an extra net inch has made a difference. For the wheeling I do It makes sense.

Putting the 35s (Nitto Trail Grapplers) on a set if 16s and will have a fresh set (just road hazarded my BFGs again) of 33s on the 18s for winter/long distance.

If it sucks at least I won't be up a creek.
 
jonharis said:
Yes sir. Body lift developed by Spressomon after several iterations if various height. That and the spacers that I'm already running eliminate rub for most that have implemented it.

I know the whole anti 35 argument and have gone over it for a couple of years now. some have encouraged it, others think I'm crazy. Yes I'll loose some reliability and may go thru CVs and racks faster but I think I'll appreciate the benefits.

I've seen first hand numerous times running with a bunch of 100s, some with and some without the lift and 35s where an extra net inch has made a difference. For the wheeling I do It makes sense.

Putting the 35s (Nitto Trail Grapplers) on a set if 16s and will have a fresh set (just road hazarded my BFGs again) of 33s on the 18s for winter/long distance.

If it sucks at least I won't be up a creek.
Click to expand...

Nice, I think 100's look perfect with 35's. I have been going through the same debate on the FJ, it drives and wheels nicely with stock gearing and 33's but the siren song has been stuck in my head for a while. I think I'll be going 4.56's and 35's before too long. Are you geared 4.56 or 4.88?
 
4.88. And soon adding Marlins T-Case gears. :)
 
RyanR said:
Interesting, you are regearing the stock T-case? What will your final crawl ratio be?

How's your RPM's at highway speeds with the 4.88 and 33's?
Click to expand...

From Marlin's website.
These gears replace your stock 2.488:1 low range ratio with a 3.116:1 Marlin Crawler ratio! The end result is a 25% gear reduction for your FJ80, FZJ80, or 100-series Toyota Land Cruiser, which combined with your automatic transmission's torque converter, results in almost a 75% total reduction...
Click to expand...

RPMs are Not bad at all, a little lower than stock. They will be the same as stock with 35s. The truck is still very drivable at any "reasonable" speed. I don't remember exactly but maybe 3000-3250 RPM at 75.
 
I'm running 4.88s and 35" tires and overall gearing is about 9% lower than stock on the FJC. I am told that 4.56 with 35s will be same as stock and no speedo error. But I love my 4.88s for power and great for towing. Call them my "rocket 88s".

Ace
 
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