Cost Effective Transfer Case?

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Jan 4, 2008
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I have a ’73 FJ40 this is my first 4x4 vehicle build up. I would like to put in a Chevy 305 and Turbo 350…. On the “40-55-Series Tech” forum I original posted the following questions..

After all the reading/research... I would like to use the turbo 350 trans but I am not sure what is a good/low cost transfer case (before I spend ~$600 for a man-a-fre conversion kit)?

With the steel bracket modifications to the FJ40 transfer case would it hold up?... What actually brakes on the FJ40 transfer case if it is braced properly?

What should I do about the drive shafts; will the stock shafts hold up?

At

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197791-chevy-small-block-fj40.html

and never got a response from group. Can anyone help me with this issue? Tks
 
In my opinion a Toyota t-case is a good option, but you will have to use an adapter. That might not be "low cost"The Toyota split case would be the strongest, but I don't know about adapters for a 350 trans to Anything. I run a sm420 to a Toy Box to a 3 speed Toyota t/c. My t/c has held up with the doubler now for three years. I do use a t-case saver (steel bracket mod). The failure mode on these t/c's is a cracked case. The alu. is brittle and they break in half.

If you are looking for the cheapest way to go, you might want to use a Chev t/c that bolts up to your 305/350, and then get a centered rear diff. Their are people using mini truck rear ends under their fj40's.

Drive shafts? Stock are fairly stout, but you'll need to have new one's made to adapt your new drive train.

The real bottom line here is that their isn't a whole lot of low cost options to this game.:) Just my .02

good luck

aw
 
what is your plan with this truck? is it going to be a crawler? center rear axle? If it is going to be a crawler steer clear of the stock 3 or 4 speed cases, I have broken 3 of them with t-case savers and protection. I'm getting an atlas and it is going to be worth every penny: geared whatever ratio you could want, small package, bulletproof, warrenty, shift on the fly, front digs!

I think a lowmax 205 would be a very good option for you, very resonably priced and from what I found it looks like a 205 came behind a th350 in a stock application
 
Offrd ---- When I was building it my primary focus was mudding but I didn’t want to build something that couldn’t attempt a ‘fair’ forest or rock trail. With all the weight and my lack of concern for power, racing dirt tracks was never a thought. For me, mudding, watching that +20’ wall of water arch ahead of you....

I have already read through the tech link on the stock t/c

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/54270-best-3-speed-transfer-case.html

but it seems like pretty mixed reviews here too.

Yep, just like installing PS there doesn't appear to be a cheap, 'better', stronger option (unless your wealthy).

BustaNut ---- So crawling is considered the hardest on the drivetrain because?
1. Slow speeds = less momentum and more average torque on parts?
2. Large Articulation puts more stress at weird angles?
3. Rocks are harder than mud, stick, dirt (and steel for that matter)?
4. Quick max bursts of power are required more often?
5. ?????

Yep, it looks like the LoMax will fit a Turbo 350.
What Atlas are you getting and ~cost?




Tks for the Help
 
I guess I didn’t mean to be so specific that your truck was going to be exclusively a crawler but just whether it was going to be a wheeler, or a pretty street driven truck. But I would venture to assume rock crawling is the hardest on the drivetrian because of shock loads. The last t-case I broke, I was bound up and several tires were undercut, very stuck if you will.

busted.JPG


I’m getting a 2speed 5.0 unit with big outputs on both ends. I can’t say what I’m getting it for. Check out the pirate vendors section, lots of shops selling them for very reasonable prices.
 
Yep, it seems pretty clear the stock FJ40 T-case will not function will because of the cast aluminum housing BUT the internal gears/parts can take the punishment. Right now I just don’t have ~$2k to do it the ‘right’ way, so I might as well take my chances with a WAG mod to the T-case.

I talked to a few ‘metal friends’ and they said the factory casting was to complicated to do a one-off casting out of iron with either low carbon (steel) or higher carbon (cast iron).

Because of the precise heating process required, it is not possible to over-mold the housing with more aluminum.

Have plenty of steel plate to fab a new case around the internals but that will take weeks/months to replace the original case (if ever)….

Also looked at possibly of adding more steel reinforcement brackets but there are not enough mounting points and clearance becomes an issue.

My last cheap option to try is to weld ½” aluminum plate (in many pieces) to the factory ribbing then fill the air gaps with a high strength epoxy and fill in the weld buts with more aluminum.

Besides working my way around the case (like sheet metal welding) what is the best way to weld to cast aluminum with a mig?

Am I way off track…. Should I just wait till I have the money to do it right?
 
Hi All:

Don't know anything about the Rover 230 t-case, but a 'wheeling buddy is running a SBC/TH350/Dana18 combo in his '40 with good results.

For the Dana18 t-case, IIRC there are three versions (all have the right-hand offset) but you want a late production unit as they are the strongest.

For more info, see this website:

Novak Conversions - The Dana Spicer Model 18 Transfer Case

Good luck!

Alan
 
TIG Welding Cast Aluminum Is pretty much impossible. I've been welding aluminum a long time, and I've NEVER ONCE had good luck with this. If you did get it to work, you would have to preheat the heck out of it to get any penitration.

MIG with Cast Aluminum is automatically out of the question...
 
Thanks of all the helpful responses. ALL comments welcome, PLEASE feel free to call me a dumb a-- if you are will to be specific on why I’m a dumb a--.

So far this is what the initial research indicates

T-Case Name, Strength (1-10), ~T-Case/Cost, ~TH350 Adapter/Cost
Factory FJ40,,,,,,,,,,,,,2,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$0.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$550.00
Dana18,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,4,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$600.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$400.00
Orion,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,5,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$1,550.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$550.00
Dana300,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,8,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$1,850.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$400.00
Atlas,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,9 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$2,200.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,???
Atlas2,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,10,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$2,700.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,???

When considering a different T/C this is what I am looking at… Trying not to leave out any major expenses except for Labor/BEER. Before I budget for this, I would like to be able to finish the project within 20% of the estimate so it doesn’t become a ‘perpetual’ project. Did I leave anything out besides nuts/bolts?

  • New T/C cost
  • Mods required (Drive Shafts, Axles, Skid Plate(s), Trans to T/C Adaptor, Rear Support Mount)
  • Installation of T/C information readably available
  • Will the stock axles hold the torque with Lock-Right lockers?
  • What are the dimensions of the new T/C… Will the LC floor/hump need extensive mods? Will the rear axle need to be moved back a ~2”-3”? Will the stock axles work?
  • What will my top highway speed be (at 4k rpm,,, assuming adequate power)?
  • What is the crawl ratio be? Is ~40:1 good for a automatic transmission (with 10” stall converter) or is ~60:1 better it I ever plan to rock crawl?
  • What are the best/strongest U-joints to use (arguably the cheapest thing I will have to buy but still important).
  • (Car guy talking) Does anyone ever use driveshaft safety loops to prevent the axle slamming into a rock if something breaks?


General Theory Question: Is the factory FJ40 case ‘wrapping up’ and causing it to crack? If it was secured to the frame in +3 places would it hold together?


zuluzeugma – Over the last 3 days I have done more research/talking and your wise, MIG will defiantly not work well with aluminum and “preheat the heck out of it to get any penetration” would be required for a TIG. I only have much experience with steel. Tks for the advice. I just wish Toyota had required it made out of cast iron (like the trans bell housing) so it would be +50% stronger instead of AL.

bust-a-nut – The more effort I put into the research the more Over-Time I could have at work to pay for an Atlas. I do plan on thrashing the hell out of my FJ… besides the 3 FJ T/Cs you have replaces why did you finally decide on the Atlas and not the others?

Tks All
 
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This is going to be a long response so hold on.

Lets see, first a few corrections to your list.
An NV4500 isn't a t-case, it is a heavy duty 5 speed transmission that somtimes has a granny low, very strong unit granted the 5th gear issue is resolved

A Dana300 isn't nearly as strong as you have listed in stock form (maybe this is assumed beacause upgrades are added into your price?), and once you put big outputs and gears in it you have quite a pretty penny invested. Some people have broken the cases on the dana300 just like I have done to the cruiser case, some people say that happens becasue the case wasn't properley supported.
Some people have also broken the after market gearsets for the dana 300 also, there are several companys that make these gear sets and i think only one was failing but i'm not sure which so I won't name names.

The orion is a very strong unit with exception to the stock nose cone if you get the standard orion, The HD version provides a new nosecone that should resolve all issues.

I don't think there is such thing as an AtlasI anymore unless you buy used all AA sells are AtlasII's

As far as locking the fj40 case in place this would induce more stress into the case from frame flex and motor torq. Marlin makes the best t-case saver I have seen but i don't think it would have prevented my last failure.

There are lots of reasons i'm going the atlas route, lots of those reasons I listed above but I'll cover them in more depth. The short of it is, that it is going to be the last t-case I ever have to buy no matter what rig I have. The long of it is:
-Adaptablity, the atlas is based on a D300 and can be bolted onto just about any transmission you can dream of and lots of doublers are options as well. For the short term mine is going behind my sm420, long term i'm going to swap in a 2uzfe with the A340(?) tranny this adapter is only 3/8" long and should work out very well.
-Gear selection, you have a choice of a unit w/ ratios: 2, 3, 3.8, 4.3, 5, and 6. I'm going w/ a 5.0 unit for my future stage, my good freind has a 2uzfe in his truck and when he is in his 4.7 ratio it kicks ass at GITTIN IT, he has lower choices also which is nice. Lots freinds have 4.3 units and they don't seem to be enough gear for around these parts coupled with an auto, they have to rely on horse power and they don't seem to just crawl.
-Clockable, The bolt pattern on the front is round and you can run it at 4 different positions at about a 25deg range, getting a flat belly should be easy. big deal to me
-Front dig, this is also a big deal to me, not many other units have this ablity, d300 does and I think an np205 can as well but don't quote me. Front dig adds a lot of mauverabilty to your rig.
-Strength, Quite simply it is very strong, I am not worried about it ever failing. I have 10 wheeler friends that have atlas's and they all wheel the s*** out of their rigs I only know of one failure ever to of occured which leads to the next point
-Warrenty, AA stands behind their product, my friend had a sycro that failed and destroyed his case, this was a freak accident. Mark was not the original owner of his case and even though AA clearly stats that there warrenty only covers the original owner, they fixed his case at no charge. That is a stand up business
-Shift on the fly, you can shift it when you are moving, cool and practical
-Price, all things concidered, atlas's are not gold plated, they really are not that expensive. People don't seem to blink twice at invest 2G in there front axle or their motor, why not the heart of the drivetrain?
-Compact, It is simply smaller than other options. In an fj40, even with my wheelbase stretched a foot there isn't that much room.
-Custom builds, AA is getting toyota bolt pattern flanges from high angle drive line for me and building my case with them so I can continue uses toyota d-lines and not require me to install the flanges on my own

Things that turned me off on the other options
-Stak, I almost went this route the reasons I didn't: heavier, not sycro'd, price increased making it in the same range as atlas, last i knew they were 3 months out, gear options are 3.75, 4.33 and 5.44 I wanted 5.0 (deal breaker)
-Orion, good affordable unit that is direct swap into my current setup but I don't want to be stuck with an ofset rear axle and no front dig, I don't think it can go behind my future plan witout a toybox
-dual mini cases, every one of my friends with dual mini cases has broken output shafts in either the front or/and rear case. Too long, Not that cheep, no front dig
-Toybox/Splitcase, thought long and hard about this seams like a very good stout option, once again ofset rear, no front dig, long, not that cheep
-d300, needs a lot invested to make it what I want and still may not hold up, I don't want t-case problems anymore.
-Lomax, never really considered it but seems like a good option, might be a bit large and def heavy

Sorry for the epic response, I was in your shoes a month ago and have a lot of thoughts on the subject. Also sorry about my spelling I don't have a word processor on the home machine.
 
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"epic response" Hell that was awesome, to here it all in one place, thats great. Tks for taking the time bust-a-nut

I had to start this power increase project BUT when I started I thought the whole project could be done for ~$3k…. Used but well operating Chevy small block and Turbo 350 for $600, Cam Kit $350, Trans rebuild kit $300, Carb $300, other top end parts $200 (rods, rocker arms, seals...), T-Case Adaptor Kit $600, $150 for gasket kits, intake and valve covers (free because I’ve had the for ~20 years), $800 for other BS (electric fan, trans cooler, maybe used radiator, engine mounts, ect..)

Hence “all things considered, atlas's are not gold plated, they really are not that expensive. People don't seem to blink twice at invest 2G in there front axle or their motor, why not the heart of the drive train?”

DAM, I have to agree with your logic, doubling my original budget will defiantly hurt but you made some good points and until I thrash the original axles there shouldn’t be anything more to fix. After this swap,,, by weight -- almost nothing on the vehicle will be original except for the frame and axles and both of those have be modified in many ways now.

My mistake on the Atlas Name … I thought the Atlas 2-speed was a “Atlas” and the 4-speed was the “Atlas 2”.

So you’re still running stock axles? And the Atlas will bolt in with no axle replacement needed? I have never really heard anyone bitch about the stock axles other than the lack of aftermarket performance parts/gears….
 
I'm running fj60 axles w/ 1.5" spacers, the truck is sitting on 40s. The front axle has 30spline longs, marlin high steer and hydro assit. The rear is stock. Both ends have coarse spline diffs because I can never get my hands on fine splines. Both have lock rights. As of now axle carnage has been limited to one coarse spline rear, one bent carrier in the front and my front housing is bent also. When the atlas goes in, i'm swapping in a tacoma rear because I will no longer have an offset t-case. The 8.4 rear diff should be stronger than the coarse spline cruiser diff i'm currently running, but shafts are prolly weaker. Overall I have been happy with the yota axles. The bent carrier was a property of the lockrite, which I would like to ditch. I may replace my front housing with a dimond and if I break rear shafts I'll stuff some chromo pig shafts in it.
 

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