Cost Effective 3B drive replacement

[Benihana]

Hello cruiser heads

I have recently acquired my first Toyota Land Cruiser. It is a 1984 BJ 60 passed down from the father in law. Unfortunately he didn't take the best of care of the old girl and I have my work cut out for me. The body however is in relatively decent shape except for the beautiful poo brown factory paint job. My plan is to go flat black but there are some more pressing issues that need handling first. The Transfer case is toast and is the first major job on the list. I am holding off however until I decide what to do with the motor. My 3B has 350,000 km on it and poops blue smoke everywhere on startup, and warm up leading me to believe that those old rings are well past their best before date. Oddly enough however this blue cloud can be totally avoided if the block heater is plugged in for an hour or two before starting.

I have been doing lots or reading on MUD about 350 swaps and Chevy Diesel swaps and the costs incorporated with those jobs. My question to all those who know is: What is the most cost effective and "Best Bang for the Buck" option for drive train repair or replacement in one of these beasts?

Should / Can I:

A: Rebuild the 3B and transfer case?
B: Find a used or rebuilt Chevy 350 and mate it to the H55F.
C: Buy a crate Chevy 350 (Jegs for around $2200) and mate it to the stock H55F.
D: Buy a used 6.3 or 6.6L Chevy diesel. (Is it possible to mate this to the H55F or is a transmission / transfer case swap needed as well?)
E: Other options?

I would like to stick with the diesel engine for the simple reason that I would like to run biodiesel is my cruiser due to the increasing cost of gas here in British Columbia. But that said I only use my cruiser for camping trips and the odd weekend trail ride and the simplicity and power of the gas driven 350 is very attractive.

Another factor I will have to address is the fact that the lower mainland is subject to Aircare emissions regulations that can drive a man batty when trying to get insurance.

I have also come to wonder how well the other stock drive line components will stand up to increased horsepower. Can the H55F, split t-case and differentials handle the extra torque? I assume that these questions are somewhat naive considering the reason I wanted this truck as a base is because they are known for being incredibly stout, I guess I am just looking for a little experienced reassurance.

Thanks for any input!

 

[chukardog]

turbo the 3B, Bull here on mud can offer up some guidance. keep the 3b!!!

 

[earl]

I'm not an expert, but if your 3B is smoking on startup it probably just isn't getting a good glow/preheating. My 3B has over 660,000 km on it and I don't even have to add oil between oil changes! I'm planning on a turbo eventually.

A SBC would probably be great. Just depends on what you want. The 3B gives you great fuel economy, while the SBC will give you power.

 

[cody c]

howdy, you definately want to chime in , in the diesel section. most of the canucks and aussies and a few yanks are in there and can provide more specific info on your 3B (the states didnt get the diesels so there is mostly gas engine cruisers in the 60 section) . but i would sugest gettting the injectors done on your cruiser (they should usually be done every 150 thousand k's), and maybe the glow plugs, you can ask napa if they have any NGK Y147-T glow plugs. they are 10.5 volt but work good. Also a turbo really wakes up a cruiser. I would keep the 3B and do the maintenace, they arent powerhouses but they last a long time when maintained

 

[Benihana]

Hey Thanks for the guidance guys!

I think I will end up keeping the 3B. The power of eight is tempting but the scare tactics on the news about the rising price of oil is overwhelming. Thanks for the tips about the glow plugs and the injectors. I will probably target those first.

Now next question, I am new to diesels, so this may be a silly question but why would my engine oil turn jet black in only a matter of 500 km after a fresh oil change? I am used to gas engines that stay clean for a couple thousand km.

 

[lowenbrau]

Now next question, I am new to diesels, so this may be a silly question but why would my engine oil turn jet black in only a matter of 500 km after a fresh oil change? I am used to gas engines that stay clean for a couple thousand km.

Indirect injected diesels are famous for this. That's why they need oil changes more often than direct injected ones. Normal stuff. Change the oil every 5000-8000km and just keep driving. You'll be tired of this vehicle long before you wear it out.

My BJ70 is up to 550,000km now

 

[cruiser_guy]

Yep, a choice between a Chevy 350 and a 3B is a no brainer in my book. I have over 500,000kms on my BJ60 and I drive from Central America to Vancouver and back each year without worrying about the engine crapping out.

As others have said, have the injectors done and check and replace faulty glow plugs and you should be much better.

Diesel engine is black because of soot from burning oil (diesel fuel is oil) and all diesels will get nasty black oil within a few hundred km of an oil change if not sooner.

 

[Ducks]

Turbo the 3b and rebuild the t-case. Put an h55 in.

 

[lowenbrau]

Turbo the 3b and rebuild the t-case. Put an h55 in.

An 84 BJ60 will have come from the factory with an H55f so he's already a third of the way down the list!

 

[dslcruzr]

I'll vote for keeping the 3b. Mine has 467,000km and still runs great! A BJ60 with mileage that low and a decent body is a rare find!

 

[brownbear]

Rebuild kit for the tcase is 500 bucks. Rebuild it yourself with some trips to the machine shop to use a press.


I bet your glowplugs are crap. Try glowing a couple time before starting.

I can start my BJ60 with next to no smoke.

 

[Greg_B]

Diesel engine is black because of soot from burning oil (diesel fuel is oil) and all diesels will get nasty black oil within a few hundred km of an oil change if not sooner.

You've not had the pleasure of the DI brethern. My 1st exposure was with an HJ61 we brought over years ago. Did a service, put a transmission in the back and drove to Kamloops dropped off the tranny/tcase for rebuild and drove back home. Got home, checked the oil and did a double take. Had to clean it, try once more...and hold it just right so I could see the oil level. It was that clean.

On the other hand, I can do an oil change on the 3B in the BJ42, drive to get a coffee...and the oil will be as black as the dark roast.

gb

 

[Greg_B]

Hello cruiser heads
My 3B has 350,000 km on it and poops blue smoke everywhere on startup, and warm up leading me to believe that those old rings are well past their best before date. Oddly enough however this blue cloud can be totally avoided if the block heater is plugged in for an hour or two before starting.

As many have suggested, I would point to the glow plugs. Perhaps the plugs are not working. Perhaps the glow relay is not working as it should. Get yourself a factory manual and follow the testing procedures. The kicker for me is that it starts up with no smoke when heated. The 3B can be a shaky smoky rattle can when started cold with no working glow plugs.

Another factor I will have to address is the fact that the lower mainland is subject to Aircare emissions regulations that can drive a man batty when trying to get insurance.

Diesel = no problem for your 3B with aircare.

Do a valve set. Have the injectors crack and spray pattern tested.

hth's

gb

 

[Benihana]

As many have suggested, I would point to the glow plugs. Perhaps the plugs are not working. Perhaps the glow relay is not working as it should. Get yourself a factory manual and follow the testing procedures. The kicker for me is that it starts up with no smoke when heated. The 3B can be a shaky smoky rattle can when started cold with no working glow plugs.



Diesel = no problem for your 3B with aircare.

Do a valve set. Have the injectors crack and spray pattern tested.

hth's

gb

Hey Thanks for weighting in!

I appreciate all the knowledge that you guys have to offer and the time you take to do so! I will replace the glow plugs and have the injectors services within the next couple of weeks. It's good to hear that Aircare won't be a problem. Is that due to the relaxed standards for the older diesels?

I find this quite funny that aircare would be so easy for these trucks. The PO, my soon to be father in law, who basically drives vehicles until they drop used to have this cruiser serviced at Toyota in Penticton. He gave me a smoking deal on my 60 because the dealership told him he would have to rebuild the motor and get a new exhaust in order to pass aircare. In other words I'm glad to hear that I should be able to get through and run strong with new plugs and a fuel system service.

Thanks Guys! I'll post back on this thread when the ol girl has some life again.

Ben

 

[brownbear]

Hey Thanks for weighting in!
. It's good to hear that Aircare won't be a problem. Is that due to the relaxed standards for the older diesels?

I find this quite funny that aircare would be so easy for these trucks.

Ben

It's what they are testing for. Diesel produce particulate and that is a different matter, they are not producing the noxious stuff a gasser is. They are not lax, cause it is not what they are after. Most Toyota diesel are actually quite clean burning when warm anyhow. My truck has next to no visible smoke under load.