Cooling System Rehab - Any Pointers?

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FJsixty2 said:
i'm wondering about this '5 gallon' capacity myself. i just finished the same procedure (new upper and lower hoses, new thermostat, new radiator cap, gaskets, drain plug, 'T' in the inlet hose, full flush, etc.) and i was only able to get 2.5 gallons (10 qts) in the system, so far. the FSM calls for 20+ qts and i'm not seeing it. i have already filled it (with 'T' off), run for 10 minutes and topped off and that's what got me to 10 qts. is this what most people find they take? i did a full drain of the radiator after the flush.

The 20 quarts is with the block totally drained. Removing the lower rad hose won't drain the block. 10qts is fine for a flush and refill.
 
thanks 60wag. i totally forgot about the block. that should also mean that my coolant/water ratio is also lower now and that i have 'regular' water (hose) in the mix with the distilled and coolant.

water wetter is a good suggestion. i used to run water wetter all the time when i was racing SCCA. i know i have a bottle or 2 laying around - i'll give it a try also.
 
60wag said:
- different fan. The electric carb fan only runs when the engine is off. The larger belt driven fan behind the rad has a fluid coupled clutch that can fail after 15 years or so. Rising temps at idle can indicate a weak fan clutch. Don't bother with aftermarket replacements - go OE.

Nonono, I know what you're talking about - what I mean is, the belt-driven fan will kick in when you start the truck back up after it sits for about 5-10 minutes, regardless of temperature. Either way, it sounds like the clutch is my culprit.

How much should I expect to pay for OE? The Toyota dealership in my area quoted me at $205.89, to which I replied with a half-grin and a "I'll check around, thanks."
 
Well I couldn't get the t-stat housing in time. So my friend just drained the rad (the coolant was pretty clean), not the block, and replaced the upper hose.

He found a pinhole leak in the bottom of the radiator, so he put in some stop leak, and then refilled the coolant.

He said I should bring it back, and he'll pull the radiator, so we can take it to a shop to get fixed. Then he'll put it back in, and replace the lower hoses, t-stat, t-stat gaskets and housing at the same time.

When I drove it Phoenix on Friday, it did just fine. Mostly hung around the second mark. When I climbed, it got up the the third. When I sat in traffic, in the heat, it was about halfway up.

And as a side benefit, I now I have turn signals again! I asked him if he could test the flasher unit. He had me put the fuse back in, he put the flasher unit back in, disconnected the horn, put the hazards/horn fuse back in (we had that fuse out because the horn sounds constantly) -- and alas, they suddenly started working again.

Also, I did the foil trick, and my windows work again, except for the passenger side. I though the motor was just shot. But my DSS pushed the switch, and it went down. It just didn't go back up. :doh:

On the downside, he says my engine has a "miss" ... probably the ignition ... whatever that means. :confused:
 
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