Has anyone installed switches in the 3rd row to allow for control of the vent windows? I'd be interested in being able to open and close them with the truck off (while camping) while still retaining functionality of the dash switch like normal.
Control rear vent windows from 3rd row
- Thread starter JS114
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Why would you want it to work with the vehicle off? Do you open and close them a bunch when you are camping?
- Thread starter
- #3
In the past, we camped in a truck camper with sliding manual windows on each side; our own personal vent. If it gets too hot, too cold, too windy, starts to rain, we have chili for dinner...it'd be nice to be able to open and close them without waking each other up to crawl to the front, turn the key and operate from the front.
Got it, didn't realize you are sleeping in the vehicle. Never thought of that, how tall are you? Suprised two people can sleep in there?
Valid point. I'm in the same boat. I'm also thinking of adding some switches into the cigarette ash tray of the mid door to control driver's seat position.
- Thread starter
- #6
It's over 6' from the back of the front seats to the tailgate and about 56" wide. With drawers or a sleeping platform to get you above the wheel wells and level with the folded down 2nd row, it's right in between the size of a full and queen size bed.
My friends, pranksters that they be, would preclude me from trusting them with my seat controls from the back while I'm driving
If no one's done this, I guess I'll investigate and hopefully someone with better 12v skills can chime in. It would essentially be like installing a 3-way switch in a house, no? Like where 2 switches control the same light fixture.
I am not very good with 12V, but i believe the switch controls a motor. Much more complex, or at least different, than the 3-way in your home.
If only Wagon Gear had their fold up hatches for the rear windows in the Hundies! I love the 60's version.
In answer to your question you can install a switch in the plastic inner quarter panel trim. I did. It isn't the safest wiring method. I ran a wire all the way back to the backside of the switch in the dash. The stepping motor that activates the windows doesn't know where the poser comes from. I disconnected the ignition switched power to the dash switch and wired it hot all the time from a spare fuse in the fuse block. Works great.
Down side to my set up is my switch location. It is exposed where the dogs butt or loose objects like grocery bags can depress the rocker switch.
In answer to your question you can install a switch in the plastic inner quarter panel trim. I did. It isn't the safest wiring method. I ran a wire all the way back to the backside of the switch in the dash. The stepping motor that activates the windows doesn't know where the poser comes from. I disconnected the ignition switched power to the dash switch and wired it hot all the time from a spare fuse in the fuse block. Works great.
Down side to my set up is my switch location. It is exposed where the dogs butt or loose objects like grocery bags can depress the rocker switch.
Should be pretty straightforward. I recently picked up a rear vent swith from the mud classifieds. I agree with deltapine1 - you don't want those switches exposed to cargo, kicking kids, etc.
In my 80 when I installed interior tailgate lights I installed the switch in a protected location inside the rear latch opening. If I were adding the rear quarter window switches in the rear of a 100 series I would install them in one of the cargo compartments or where the jack/tool bag lives.
I'm attaching a few pics of how I got the OEM look on my 80 tailgate light switch -- fabricated a switch slot/holder out of wood and glue.
In my 80 when I installed interior tailgate lights I installed the switch in a protected location inside the rear latch opening. If I were adding the rear quarter window switches in the rear of a 100 series I would install them in one of the cargo compartments or where the jack/tool bag lives.
I'm attaching a few pics of how I got the OEM look on my 80 tailgate light switch -- fabricated a switch slot/holder out of wood and glue.
- Thread starter
- #10
My guess is that the dash switch is just a double post, double throw momentary switch. If that's true, I just need to wire a second dpdt momentary rocker in parallel in the back someplace out of the way but convenient. I'll try to investigate tomorrow.
I like the idea as well - I think this would need to have full time live power to do what you are attempting. RobRed had done something similar for 12V outlets:
http://tlcfaq.com/main/article-index/
Anybody combine the electrical for both switches (L&R) into 1? I almost always have the windows both open or closed together.
And to threadjack; by combining/consolidating the switches, that might open another slot to put the seat heater switches in the dash. I am so blessed that I can always hit the console switches to HIGH by complete accident and not realize the immediate consequence, most often after the truck has been baking in the desert sun. Nothing quite like the insult of being hot & sweaty, then burning the back and thighs, and then, of course, wondering why burns linger.
I mean nobody here ever does that. Right?
But, alas, there is the answer...
http://tlcfaq.com/main/article-index/
Anybody combine the electrical for both switches (L&R) into 1? I almost always have the windows both open or closed together.
And to threadjack; by combining/consolidating the switches, that might open another slot to put the seat heater switches in the dash. I am so blessed that I can always hit the console switches to HIGH by complete accident and not realize the immediate consequence, most often after the truck has been baking in the desert sun. Nothing quite like the insult of being hot & sweaty, then burning the back and thighs, and then, of course, wondering why burns linger.
I mean nobody here ever does that. Right?But, alas, there is the answer...
I'd be totally up for a rear remote window switch for camping in the back. Great idea. Have also though about one of the prop open links like the FJC guys have for their rear hatch. Ours is prob too heavy for use in motion, but would be nice for dog/sleeping.
Would still want independent window control. In windy rain you can leave the lee side open and not get wet.
Would still want independent window control. In windy rain you can leave the lee side open and not get wet.
agree with Hoser about making the 2nd row window switches hot via a switch, maybe right behind the center console, or up on the dash. Your head is right at that window, vs your feet at the 3rd row window, so you'd get quicker results to cool off and a lot bigger opening variable. But, I do like the idea of 3rd row control as well... what would be cool is a switch in the dash that makes the 2nd row windows hot, as well as making a new set of switches hot in the 3rd row... hmmmmm
Coincidently I was talking to Darin about having a single switch control the rear vents, freeing up a space in the dash - I've looked at it.
The actual "mechanics" to do the second switch (or third) is pretty straight forward. The issue, if you want to call it that is retained power when the key is out/off. In the write ups I've done I'm powering the comms/audio system from the Aux battery I have. IN the stock toyota system there are power relays that energize when the key is in/on. You would need to tap power before them (switches are always on) or create a relay setup to handle toggling your new power source.
If I were doing this mod I would probably look to have a circuit that energizes the systems as if you had the key on. This way you could activate the master switch and have power to everything (all windows, sunroof 12v sockets.
The actual "mechanics" to do the second switch (or third) is pretty straight forward. The issue, if you want to call it that is retained power when the key is out/off. In the write ups I've done I'm powering the comms/audio system from the Aux battery I have. IN the stock toyota system there are power relays that energize when the key is in/on. You would need to tap power before them (switches are always on) or create a relay setup to handle toggling your new power source.
If I were doing this mod I would probably look to have a circuit that energizes the systems as if you had the key on. This way you could activate the master switch and have power to everything (all windows, sunroof 12v sockets.
- Thread starter
- #16
I sleep head facing back...no idea why....
I checked the dash switch and it is DPDT, momentary. I also confirmed with an electrical tech at my work that this is the right way to wire a second switch for the vents:
But, the rear switch needs to be on a constant hot +. Is there one back there on each side?