Hi guys, i wonder if anyone can help me with a problem, i have a full floating rear axle with drum brakes and i want to check the bearings but 1 cone washer won't come out any ideas or solution to this f******ng problem
cone washer
- Thread starter johan peeters
- Start date
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Double nut the stud and back the stud out...
Grad the cone with a good set of pliers.
Tap the cone with a brass punch.
Grad the cone with a good set of pliers.
Tap the cone with a brass punch.
- Thread starter
- #3
thanks, do you think if i double nut it , i can take the stud out while the washer is still in there, i've tried everything else heat, brass hamer ,......
I usually gently beat around the outside of the housing with a BFH first.
Then I try beating on the stud with a brass drift.
I also have small flat head screwdiver that is filed to a point that I can tap into the slit in the washer.
Liberal doses of PB blaster in advance help too.
Lately I have been putting anti-sieze on the washers when I reinstall them. Haven't had to remove them since so I don't know effective that is.
I have never tried to double the studs, although I have had studs come out intead of the nut coming off. There is not really room to double nut is there?
Then I try beating on the stud with a brass drift.
I also have small flat head screwdiver that is filed to a point that I can tap into the slit in the washer.
Liberal doses of PB blaster in advance help too.
Lately I have been putting anti-sieze on the washers when I reinstall them. Haven't had to remove them since so I don't know effective that is.
I have never tried to double the studs, although I have had studs come out intead of the nut coming off. There is not really room to double nut is there?
- Thread starter
- #6
ok i'll have another go at it ,yes indeed not much room too double nut, thank you guys
Yep x2 mine have been a lot easier to get out since I started using anti seize on them
- Thread starter
- #9
anti seize seems good, i think it's the first time they come off
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- Thread starter
- #10
f*************ck it won't come off it looks like it's fused with the axle shaft nothing works , i'm out off ideas and don't want to buy new axle shaft, what about drilling the stud out??
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I've send you a PM with a link in Dutch...maybe it's of some value to you..so look in your postbox
or follow the link below.
\
In case anyone else wonders (is interested):
It's a description about how to replace the wheelbearings of my HZ73. It's about the front axle but the problem with the cone washers is identical. In there is a discription of the methodes I used to get the cone washers out.
In English
http://ourwebspot.nl/Landcruiser_eng/Wheelbearings.html
In Dutch:
http://ourwebspot.nl/Landcruiser/Aslagers.html
or follow the link below.
\In case anyone else wonders (is interested):
It's a description about how to replace the wheelbearings of my HZ73. It's about the front axle but the problem with the cone washers is identical. In there is a discription of the methodes I used to get the cone washers out.
In English
http://ourwebspot.nl/Landcruiser_eng/Wheelbearings.html
In Dutch:
http://ourwebspot.nl/Landcruiser/Aslagers.html
Put a piece of timber against the hub and hit it hard with a heavy hammer. I use a 2lb mash hammer. Have done this many times without damaging any hubs. Front and back. Best to use new studs, cones , washers and nuts. They are cheap and the nuts cop a flogging from rocks etc.
nothing works , i'm out off ideas and don't want to buy new axle shaft, what about drilling the stud out??
- Thread starter
- #13
okay, i'll try again and hope for the best , thank's for all your ideas, and let you know if it works
- Thread starter
- #14
broken stud but it's off
this is where i am now ,now what is the best way to remove studs ? the broken one is still a problem
this is where i am now ,now what is the best way to remove studs ? the broken one is still a problem
What I tend to do in a case like this is to start dilling with a fairly small (3mm) drill because you hardly ever hit the exact centre of the stud. After that, drill the same hole with a slightly larger drill using the hole as a guidance.
Depending on how precise (or not ) you have hit the centre of the stud, keep redrilling with increasingly larger drills as long as you are sure you don't hit the treads of the hub.
This way you remove the main part of the broken stud.
Then, once the most of the centre part of the stud has been drilled out it's often possible to remove the remains by using a small screwdriver. Put the bladetip of the screwdriver in the hole and very gently tap the crewdriver so it gets wedged only just and then use it to turn the remains of the stud.
In case this fails, try to remove the first few threads of the stud and then use a tap to remove the remaining part.
Depending on how precise (or not
) you have hit the centre of the stud, keep redrilling with increasingly larger drills as long as you are sure you don't hit the treads of the hub.This way you remove the main part of the broken stud.
Then, once the most of the centre part of the stud has been drilled out it's often possible to remove the remains by using a small screwdriver. Put the bladetip of the screwdriver in the hole and very gently tap the crewdriver so it gets wedged only just and then use it to turn the remains of the stud.
In case this fails, try to remove the first few threads of the stud and then use a tap to remove the remaining part.
- Thread starter
- #16
yes it worked
i bought me this and worked perfect;
drill a small hole and use the reverse tap thank you guys, hey Ron where do you order your cruiser parts?
i bought me this and worked perfect;
drill a small hole and use the reverse tap thank you guys, hey Ron where do you order your cruiser parts?
Where do I order my cruiserparts...? It depends.
Things like bearings I tend to buy from a specialized shop in the city of Haarlem, which is close to where I live. That shop is specialized in bearings and most of the bearings Toyota uses for the cruisers are a general kind of bearings. I just take the old bearings with me and generally they can deliver. So far - if I remember correctly - I only had to buy a certain bearing for the x-fer at the dealer.
For exactly the same bearing I typically pay about 60% of what Toyota would charge me.
Typical Toyota parts like the windscreenwiper system or like last week when I needed a new radiator, I buy at the dealer, but at a discount price, generally 10-15 % off the retail price. This because I'm buying my Toyota parts there for almost 17 years now
Other things like filters, batteries, brakepads I buy in a carparts store for retailers, called Brezan and/or Lasaulec. (I think you find them in Belgium as well). Being member of the Dutch Landcruiser Club I can buy there and, depending on the kind of item, I get discounts of up to 30 %.
Things like bearings I tend to buy from a specialized shop in the city of Haarlem, which is close to where I live. That shop is specialized in bearings and most of the bearings Toyota uses for the cruisers are a general kind of bearings. I just take the old bearings with me and generally they can deliver. So far - if I remember correctly - I only had to buy a certain bearing for the x-fer at the dealer.
For exactly the same bearing I typically pay about 60% of what Toyota would charge me.
Typical Toyota parts like the windscreenwiper system or like last week when I needed a new radiator, I buy at the dealer, but at a discount price, generally 10-15 % off the retail price. This because I'm buying my Toyota parts there for almost 17 years now
Other things like filters, batteries, brakepads I buy in a carparts store for retailers, called Brezan and/or Lasaulec. (I think you find them in Belgium as well). Being member of the Dutch Landcruiser Club I can buy there and, depending on the kind of item, I get discounts of up to 30 %.
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- Thread starter
- #18
thanks, yeah brezan is here too, because i am looking for those cone washers and studs but the prices are crazy , rear hub inner seals also ,well i'll keep looking
I don't think studs and inner seal is a problem to get at Brezan or Lasaulec, but the cone washers...think you'll have to buy them at Toyota's.
Just a remark about the reverse tap you used.
Great it worked for you, but I'm a bit weary about using them on objects like your hub.
If they work....fine, but if you break them, they tend to break just below the surface of the threadhole, it is very hard - if not impossible - to get that broken-off part out. Drilling it out is virtually impossible because the steel of the tap is too hard to drill.
Therefore I use an object, like a small screwdriver, of relatively soft material, to lightly jam in the drilled hole. If I damage the screwdriver, so be it, but if a tap gets stuck in the hub.....
Just a remark about the reverse tap you used.
Great it worked for you, but I'm a bit weary about using them on objects like your hub.
If they work....fine, but if you break them, they tend to break just below the surface of the threadhole, it is very hard - if not impossible - to get that broken-off part out. Drilling it out is virtually impossible because the steel of the tap is too hard to drill.
Therefore I use an object, like a small screwdriver, of relatively soft material, to lightly jam in the drilled hole. If I damage the screwdriver, so be it, but if a tap gets stuck in the hub.....
Smack the hell out of the flange on the shaft.