Concensus on roof rack obliteration ?

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I looked over the threads I found in a search on the roof rack subject . I saw a few solutions , but I am curious if there is a more solid bias towards one solution over the others . Based on bananas , time spent , and durability .

:cheers:

TY
 
solution to what?
E
 
I have no idea ... :flipoff2:
 
Hold on .. got it !

The repairing/plugging of the roof holes , subsequent to removing the factory roof rack .

:censor:
 
T Y L E R said:
Hold on .. got it !

The repairing/plugging of the roof holes , subsequent to removing the factory roof rack .

:censor:

if you get lucky and none of the screws are rusted to the nutserts and there is no rust then it will be a :banana: job,

unscrew rack screws
remove rack
screw in new screws with washers and sealant


if they spin you are looking at removing at least the headliner, in both my and Erics case if we had accepted this fact earlier we would have been done sooner

best solution for durability and looks is to weld up the holes and repaint the roof. but that was beyond my tools time and money so I did not do so.

BTW could you pick a better color? Slate Blue is hard to read on a black background,
 
Yeah , I imagine a body shop would be $$ !

I lifted one foot of my rack , and it looked ugly . Some state of rust .. so I simply replaced and drove off into my day ... afraid ; very afraid .

What I'm curious to know , is what guys figure is the optimal plug for the job .

TY
 
was the rust just in the nutserts or also in the roof material where the feet chafe?

what finally worked for me on those holes where the nutsert had to be removed a 1/4" bolt liek object with a low profile protruding head and inside a large area washer (fender washer) and a nut all assembled wet with sealer and visible sealer wiped off from the outside, very secure and reliable but required removing both the headliner and sunroof

Eric came up with a short cut to get arround removing the sunroof.

that blue is much better thanks :)
 
I'll have to take a better look to see how extensive my rust is .

One thought I had on the removal was that I might actually leave the low profile inner pcs . The slender long axis pcs might be useful armor for entering/exiting underground parking etc , where they have those heavy hinged pipes :eek:

With these , I wonder if you could remove the long pcs , and then use a product like POR 15 and then reseat the pcs .

TY
 
I started a thread on that with photos. Ended up with plastic plugs.
E
 
T Y L E R said:

With these , I wonder if you could remove the long pcs , and then use a product like POR 15 and then reseat the pcs .

TY

I removed and repainted my rib-rails a couple of months ago without any problems. Just a drop of PB Blaster on each screw, and everything came out fine. I too am a little hesitant to horse with the rack rails after the stuff 'e' and Raven went through.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
When e was having these problems a few weeks ago i went out and messed around with my rack. I was very fortunate to have every screw come out trouble free. I liberally applied anti-seize to each screw and stuck it back in. I'm not sure if I want to remove the rack, but I figured I'd better anti-seize now before the rust sets in/gets worse.

Just a thought for those of you that are bored and are thinking about taking your rack off ;p

Ary
 
Mine came off with no issues. I then bought stainless screws and galvanized washers with a rubber seal on the bottom side. Used no silicone and, after downpours over the past few months, still have no issues with leakage.

-Garth
 
If I get it all off , and there is rusting beyond the holes .. like a bit of paint flaking etc , what would be a solution that doesn't involve painting ?

I keep hearing about this POR-15 (is that it ?) .. could I lightly sand off the flakes , and carefully spray that stuff ? Maybe make a template , or stencil , and spray only in those areas , so at least it isn't a holy mess .

Afterwards go with the stainless screws and washers .. as above .

The roof never has to look purdy , after all , right ? Not like we lower our rigs till the roofs are visible ... :D

TY
 
T Y L E R said:
Not like we lower our rigs till the roofs are visible ... :D

TY


Check out endless, NOT. OSSS :flipoff2:
 
T Y L E R said:
If I get it all off , and there is rusting beyond the holes .. like a bit of paint flaking etc , what would be a solution that doesn't involve painting ?

I keep hearing about this POR-15 (is that it ?) .. could I lightly sand off the flakes , and carefully spray that stuff ? Maybe make a template , or stencil , and spray only in those areas , so at least it isn't a holy mess .

Afterwards go with the stainless screws and washers .. as above .

The roof never has to look purdy , after all , right ? Not like we lower our rigs till the roofs are visible ... :D

TY

if the paint is damaged it must be repaired, rattle can will work just fine, sand untill al rust is gone feather surrunding paint, tape off, prime, paint tape off larger area paint again, buff for polish you will never notice it
 
Garth1 said:
Mine came off with no issues. I then bought stainless screws and galvanized washers with a rubber seal on the bottom side. Used no silicone and, after downpours over the past few months, still have no issues with leakage.

-Garth

About to further rape Jim's truck.... What size were those screws?

TJK
 
plug the hole and just rhino line the roof, can't go wrong...
 
PKP80 said:
plug the hole and just rhino line the roof, can't go wrong...

Ok , I'll bite .. that sounds like a decent solution . :)

It would be a lower profile than leaving the skinny pcs on .

TY
 
Kaderabek said:
About to further rape Jim's truck.... What size were those screws?

TJK


5mm x .08 also #10-32 AKA 3/16"x32tpi works and is much more common in the US
 
Note : I'm simply trying to buy inches of room in my underground parking . Removing the rack might buy me enough for a 850J/863 setup like Waggoner5 has . With my medium OME , I'm only looking at 1"- clearance beyond the rack ...

TY
 

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