Completely stalls at stops and low RPMs

[Spike Strip]

Hmmmm, TWO ? If you're talking about the studs that screw into the exhaust manifold flange and fasten the exhaust down pipe - there are THREE .... One is inboard, engine side, and is a bit difficult to see. If the three nuts on the studs are removed, exh/intake assy will lift off with a little more cussing. Might help to loosen the bracket that supports the downpipe to the frame or tranny, depending on year.

And again, you haven't mentioned where you are located and if you can desmog. The reason I ask is because now, with all the crap you've removed out of the way, is the time to do it.

Just realized, are you asking about the studs on the downpipe that attaches to the exh, or the "J" tube that attaches to the rear horn of the exh?

 

[bluemax009]

yes.. the studs on the down pipe. There are two posts that seem to be coming from the very bottom flange of the exhaust manifold down into the exhaust pipe flange. I removed the one nut and one bolt holding this on but it still won't separate.
I'm from North Carolina. Should I DeSmog? Since I've got alot of crap moved out of the way I plan on doing a bunch of other stuff as well.

 

[Spike Strip]

I dunno about NC desmog. Maybe someone will chime in. Or ask in a local clubhouse forum https://forum.ih8mud.com/clubhouse/

There are THREE studs (or should be) that you have to remove the nuts from to separate the manifold from the downpipe. Maybe a little frozen. Rubber mallet ? There's just a donut gasket between the flanges.

 

[bluemax009]

ok.. I want back out an tried the word "sommabitch" and it popped free. Whudathunkit..
I surveyed both components (intake and exhaust) and they look free of cracks. One thing I did notice is that the old gasket I took out looks a heck of alot like it doesnt line up as there are holes that the gasket has in it that the intake and exhaust do not have in them. Interesting thing is that there are threaded female ports on the block where the gasket has holes implying that I might have the wrong gasket or manifold. So I double and triple checked with the local autozone guys here and they assured me that that is the only gasket for the 86 F2. Is there another exhaust/intake manifold out there that fully mounts to tall the holes on the block???

 

[bluemax009]

and the next natural thing to do I guess is replace the valve cover gasket and adjust the valves?
I'm really having fun with this. First time I've ever done any major mechanical work. PB Blaster, a Haynes manual and I dropped about $450 on a tool kit and I can damn near do anything I want to this truck...

 

[Spike Strip]

The gasket you want is Fel Pro MS22813

Those extra holes are for 3F manifolds. A late model 2F head is really a 2F/3F head for the rest of the world that got 3F engines.

 

[Glenvan]

Got the carb off and isolater plate and lo and behold, the manifold nut left of the carb was almost backed all the way off. The nut right of the carb was extremely loose. I guess I found the vacuum leak. The exhaust smell in the cabin is because the tail pipe has rusted off just short of the cat and exhaust blows directly on the cabin floor, and gas tank (yikes). I am going to go ahead and remove the manifold and have it machined. The ICS is fine.

 

[alsubaiei]

OK.. So I'm new to the game of Land Cruisers. Switched from Land Rovers about 3 months ago because I just got tired of tolerating the persistent unreliability in the engine and chronic electrical issues. Thought a good starter vehicle to get my get feet wet with would be an Fj60 (1986 FJ60). Since I bought it I love it. I've done a few minor things to it, but nothing major. It runs pretty good...except as of late. Since about 1 week ago every time I drive it it stalls out when I come to a stop sign or let the RPMs drop below about 1000. I'm able to nurse it around town by playing with the throttle at red lights and stops sign,but it gets pretty hairy when I'm starting from a hill.
It fires right up with no problems, but dies right away if I don't get on the gas and hold it at a steady idle. The only thing that will keep it going without me playing with the throttle is if I pull the choke out.
I changed plug wires and plugs as well as fuel filter and air filter. Looked at the carburetor adjustment screws thinking maybe if I work with those it will help, but I'm not sure how to do it - or if it's even the problem. I have a local mechanic that has done some work on it, but every time I drop it off he has it for 3 weeks and - imagine this - is extremely hard to get ahold of.
Can anyone here point me in the right direction.

I had the same problem yesterday, i had just installed a new brake booster (used and fixed one) and cleaned the carburetor after taking the car from the garage whenever i drive fast and try to stop or put the gear in neutral it stall or shuts off so i assumed it was a vacuum leak from the used brake booster but when i turn on the car again my rpm is back to normal i went back to the garage and he just raised the rpm for the idle from the carburetor and my problem was fixed instantly