Coil question from TAC on the FARM and locker malfunction follow up

[DLPDLP]

Hey all. Had a good time Sat. Even in the midst of real trouble at home is was great to get out and see happy Cruiser lovers and wheel with you all. Hope the pancakes were good.

Jack: The coil springs on my anniversary 97 are the Slee 4" springs. Part number SOF4SM. Slee sight says manufactured only for Slee. In another location it says Mfg by Slee. I'd guess others made them for Slee. They are 4" lift and made for rigs carrying lots of gear and will maintain lift height while still providing good driving characteristics. $249.00/pair. I actually found the remnants of the Slee tag on one while messing with my lockers. I'm happy with them both on and off road.

Lockers........ got the rear working again by cleaning all wiring connections with cleaning fluid and by using the old starter trick. Tapped it with a hammer a few times. Rear seems fine again. Front worked a few times after the same treatment but is now failing again. My Chilton repair manual shows nothing about servicing the actuators. Local Toyota dealer was stupified when I called then to see what they would charge me to do it. They "replace not service" actuators. OUCH to my wallet. Want to avoid that!

Anyway, I cannot find youtube vids of the process, or any videos anywhere on how. Eric? Kelly? Anyone? Want to call me and give me a little more details on what I need to do? I see the mechinisms. On the front locker do I just remove the top cylinder (it's about 3" tall and 1.5 inches in diameter) that has three screws holding it in place on top or do I remove a larger section? Get me going and I can finish it I think. Just need to get the right start. I have to get it fixed by next weekend and I work 40 hours this week so my time is running out. And thanks again to all who took time to look and check my rig at the farm. Jack, Mike, Kelly. BIG THANKS gentlemen! David. 573-489-6700

 

[SAS]

David--good to meet you on the Farm.

I've replaced a CDL actuator, but not an F or R actuator.

There's a write-up in the 80's FAQ which may be helpful; it has a downloadable PDF attachment. See also post #14 in that thread, as it suggests the PDF has a wiring error. --Tracy

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/repairing-differential-e-lockers.570087/

 

[DLPDLP]

Thanks Tracy! I've printed and read the instructions. Sounds like it could be simple, or complicated if magnets come off and things move around.

Dealer cost for new part $768.00! Plus 2 hours labor to install. I guess I could install it. Still....... Crikey Mates. Me no gots that sorta scratch layin' around. Guess I'll bust in there myself. If I cannot get it fixed I'll go to GSMTR and do the lesser trails but that's a real drag to consider.

Offer to Eric or Kelly or others who have done this rebuild. I will drive to your place and PAY YOU CASH to assist me!!!!!! Seriously! David. Anyone is free to call 573-489-6700 if you can assist me.

 

[DLPDLP]

My local dealer is a rip off. They wanted $768.00. Toy retail is $645.00. Molle will sell to me for $484.00 with TLCA membership discount. Nice!

Old actuator is off. Front end was stuck in locked. I think motor is fried. Cruiser Dan from Erican Toyota in Albuquerque NM agreed. He said do not rebuild. Buy new. He knows some rebuild but he said its problematic. Anyway I'm ordering a new actuator. Will see about rebuilding the old one just to do it. Then have a spare if the rebuild works. Too bad front and rear designs are different. Some parts still match though. Seeya y'all later. No need to call to help I guess. It is what it is. David.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

keep old one.. kelly and i can disassemble at some point in time and see if it's salvageable and set on shelf for a spare for someone. i've brought other stuff from the dead before! Glad you went the easy route! probably pulled a touch driving home locked?

 

[DLPDLP]

Well I took the route I knew would get me to GSMTR with a functional front locker. That was goal number one. Molle toyota has ordered the only one in the warehouse for me. New one is ordered and once it arrive and I use the old old as a guide to install the new one I plan to take the old one apart and check it out. I'll make it a spare for my shelf if I can. If not it could become a donation.

Front locker did not lock and then never unlock until I was home on my property. So the ride home was fine. After talking to Cruiser Dan last night and explaining what was going on with front being locked even though the rear was not locked he was pretty sure motor is fried. Even once I got it off, and re-hooked up the wiring it does not work. Kick panel relay works, but not the motor itself.

Trick will be to get the gear aligned so when I put it back in it all lines up and understands it is locked and needs to unlock itself. All indications are that normally you should take the front actuator out "unlocked". But I had no choice. Even Cruiser Dan said "do it". I jacked up one wheel and then both to release tension but that didn't help. That sucker is locked up tight. Wish me luck and thanks for replying Erik.

 

[2fpower]

So, you drove home with a locked front end? I hope you did not fry your power steering pump....

Glad you found a solution. I have put several in after the fact, trick for me was to use a battery and cycle it to unlocked before putting it in.

so both the gear is out all the way and the motor is unlocked.

9v battery works great. I will try to find link. The FSM has a great instruction on it too.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/need-help-fast-front-locker-actuator-install.723408/

I have a post on this thread with the wires to give power to -- make it cycle.

k

 

[DLPDLP]

Hey. No it was unlocked for my drive home from the farm.

The next day, Sunday, I was messing around trying to get it to work and checking wiring and such is when the front locker finally locked again and will not unlock. So no damage from the front being locked. Haven't driven it but about 50' since and have been careful not to back up and or turn much with the front locked. I think that breaks birfields. I think.

I could not get it to unlock no matter what I did. The actuator motor stopped responding. It went from making weak little squeels to nothing at all. When I hit the dash front locker switch all I get is clicks from the passenger kick panel like the relay is working. Like I said Cruiser Dan called me and I told him what it was doing and he said the actuator is toast and the new one will unlock things, I just have to put the new one in in the right way.

So I took the front actuator off while "locked". I will need to align the little end gear so it is in the right position for everything to work when I get it back together. That or maybe I should try to manually move the fork? I don't know if that is even possible? I will check your link. Thanks for sending it. I just looked.........Actually SAS sent me this link. I have it printed and with my repair manual at home.

If the new actuator comes with directions to install while in the locked position like member said his did then I'm in good shape! I figured I'll have to wait and see what instructions I get with it if any. And then make it work. I had read 12V is too much right off a battery and a 9V will move the motor without over juicing or over extending it. I'll use a 9V if I need to actuate the new one.

I hope to be putting the new one in Friday night. Will you be around if I need your expertise? This is my first time and it is a bit stressful. (That sounds weird) Thanks. David.

 

[rockstate45]

David, thanks for the followup. It looks pretty damn good on the Slee 4" springs.

Glad to hear Molle took care of you on that discount. The TAC discount is really helpful in getting those expensive parts.

Let us know how that install goes come Friday

 

[half k cruiser]

For future reference you probably have an electric motor repair shop somewhere in your area. You would be pretty surprised what these guys can do with stuff like that. Its always worth a shot.

 

[DLPDLP]

Hey Rock and Half K. Thanks for the comment on the springs. I agree. Rock I did not think about a rebuild shop. The only one I ever used closed about 10 years ago, but I bet there is another somewhere. Had I thought of that solution I could have had them looking it over and fixing it yesterday and maybe been ready for GSMTR. Dang!

After reading the instruction on rebuilds and the time consuming issues like finding replacement parts I ordered a new one.

I will let you all know if I can fix the old one or if a local shop can and how much it costs in the end. Thanks gentlemen.

 

[2fpower]

I read a thread a while back that was looking to use a power seat motor to replace the actuator motor. Don't recall if it worked....

 

[DLPDLP]

I read a thread a while back that was looking to use a power seat motor to replace the actuator motor. Don't recall if it worked....

Hmmmmm. that is an interesting thought. The window motor is probably as strong or stronger. If it's the same as my 4runner window motor. Rear window was the same motor as side windows and they are powerful little things. I changed my rear window motor and trays once. Change the little gear and get it to mount up properly. That would be the main challenge I think. Thanks K.

For now my motor is on the way and might even get here tomorrow. Praise Andrew at Molle Toyota!

I know some of you think I took the wrong approach on replace versus repair, but I really want to get to Tenn with a properly functioning front locker or I'm not gonna be able to keep up with the hard-core group. And I don't want to drive 600+ miles to drive the moderate trails. (Not that there is anything wrong with that!) I want to get out there and run with the big dogs. That group will be 80's and 100's and a couple 60"s that are locked F&R, lifted, but not buggies or shorties. Those might be there too but the outtings are designed for rigs like mine, that have lockers that actually work when you need them. If I had not been planning on this trip for months I'd have tried a rebuild first.

And for GSMTR, I wish some TAC members were going. I posted three inquiries but got zero replies. Sammie thought about it but went to Lone Star instead. Just got back. Said he had a blast. I like the idea of Land Cruiser Wanderlust and a caravan of us heading to a new and far away off-road destination.

I will let you know when mine is fixed. And also on the actuator rebuild. Thanks to all of you!!!!! A good group indeed!!! DLPDLP

 

[DLPDLP]

After re-reading I see you said power seat. Never done one of those but if they are the same and Toyota is not cross referencing them that stinks.

I assure you the local dealership here, Machen's Toyota is a a scam shack. So if you are ever in Columbia only use them if you absolutely MUST!

Too bad too since when the Machens family still owned it the dealership was completely opposite. Helpful, honest, techs would come and talk to you in the parking lot and the service manager was kind and fair and helpful. Those were good times. Now they are all about the money. They built a fancy new location and must be trying to recoup millions.

NO TLCA discount! No talking to a technician! Make your appt. via a secretary and prepare your wallet for a thorough cleaning.

"Oh oh oh oh what a "bad" feeling.... Machens Toyota."

Disclaimer: The views expressed here are the personal views of David Silvey and in no way reflect TAC, or TLCA opinions, thoughts, or otherwise.

 

[2fpower]

Keep asking about GSMTR in the future. Conflicted this year, but there is always next year.

 

[2fpower]

Oh, and heck no, I agree with buying one with the short time you had. SOunds like a good price too. Now you can rebuild the old one and have a trail spare.

k

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

interesting.. buddy in columbia recently got TRD exhaust local and it was cheaper than other dealers.. Guess it's all in who ya talk to.. but dealers can sour a visit quick.. There's a reason there's an account at MOlle .. Cause i had a run in with another dealer in the Kansas City area about 15 years ago or more..

 

[IBCRUSN]

Keep the old actuator, unless it's rusted beyond repair they can be rebuilt and you'll have a nice spare. Attached is the PDF I mentioned on Saturday.

Here's a youtube vid from one of the MUD folks.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

as far as going to TLCA events.. I've been to just about all.. some years hit 4 a year for a while.. Just be persistant.. see whom else is interested.. it is fun to caravan across the country.. makes for GREAT memories.. camping with frogs, carhenge, fingers stuck in birfs, fire and cotton.. lots of good club memories come from trips..

 

[DLPDLP]

Status update: "Fixed"

Part arrive tonight. The new one seems to have wider gear teeth and it is quiet when testing it off the diff. If I hadn't seen the gear turn Ida thunkit wus still busted. And it locks and unlocks fast with a nice solid clink.

I'll work on the old one next and thanks again for everyone who helped check wires at the farm, found the channel locks I never knew were there and supporters one and all. Heck I even have a piece of the Asher boneyard on my rig now. Thanks K!

It was easier than I thought to switch even when locked. You just gotta wiggle the gears into sync and have the actuator in the lock position. Reading the instructions made it sound worse than it is. Just doing it made sense.

And yes to all on the future trail rides in far away lands. I look forward to them all. I'll try to make TAC proud at GSMTR next week.

Later. David.