Code 52

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R

ray299

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Threads
6
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35
Ok, I adjusted my TPS correctly and hit all the desired ranges with the ohm meter... The truck idles good but when revved, it hangs a bit on the down side. Better...
Now the truck is coming up with a CODE 52 which is the knock sensor, ECU... I swapped an ECU out and still the same... Two questions:
1. Is there any way to test the knock sensor either on or off the truck (preferably on)
2. Could the timing be off a bit causing preignition which will send a bad reading to the comuter saying something about the knock sensor?
 
Can't help w/ the question, but what is it that needs to be done to get the codes? I know you have to jump something, just don't know what or where or how! Flame away!
 
OB said:
Can't help w/ the question, but what is it that needs to be done to get the codes? I know you have to jump something, just don't know what or where or how! Flame away!
Click to expand...

The diagnostics connector under the hood on the passenger side. Pop the cover and its the set of plugs thats 3 down and 3 across (If I remember right without looking).
You have to put a jumper wire in teh middle one and jump it to the top left, looking at it from standing on the passenger side fender. With the key on, count how many times the engine light blinks... ex. 5 blinks, one second pause and then two blinks would be a code 52... it then pauses for 2.5 seconds between codes or between restarting the same sequesnce....
Hope that helps... it will be in the service manual also... so should the definition of the codes.
 
cruiser88 said:
got a used one lying around:confused: if so give that a try.only person i would know off hand that knows how to test it is fj40 jim:beer:
Click to expand...

I did swap it out for a used one.. both the TPS and the knock sensor... the problem is, I'm now getting a code 52 (knock sensor) but in order to swap it back out I have the break the motor down to get underneath the intake.... I'm realy not looking forward to doing that. Thats why I wanted to see if there was a way to test if first... I'll try contacting jim.
Thanks for the lead...
 
ray299 said:
I did swap it out for a used one.. both the TPS and the knock sensor... the problem is, I'm now getting a code 52 (knock sensor) but in order to swap it back out I have the break the motor down to get underneath the intake.... I'm realy not looking forward to doing that. Thats why I wanted to see if there was a way to test if first... I'll try contacting jim.
Thanks for the lead...
Click to expand...
i got ya;)
 
ray299 said:
I did swap it out for a used one.. both the TPS and the knock sensor... the problem is, I'm now getting a code 52 (knock sensor) but in order to swap it back out I have the break the motor down to get underneath the intake.... I'm realy not looking forward to doing that. Thats why I wanted to see if there was a way to test if first... I'll try contacting jim.
Thanks for the lead...
Click to expand...

its located on the pass side of the block.
i dont tear off the intake manifold. :confused:
check the connection. clean and add dielectric grease, if nessicary. the wire that connects is a coaxial cable. if the outer RF shiled is knicked/damaged it can allow false and/or no signal. check that first before tearing into this one. :D
 
WristPin said:
its located on the pass side of the block.
i dont tear off the intake manifold. :confused:
check the connection. clean and add dielectric grease, if nessicary. the wire that connects is a coaxial cable. if the outer RF shiled is knicked/damaged it can allow false and/or no signal. check that first before tearing into this one. :D
Click to expand...
:eek: what your out of tut,who let you out:confused: out of here boy:flipoff2:
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
It's a 3.slow, not a 22RE (Unfortunately....) So the knock sensor is really under the intake....
Click to expand...

Ya, 3.slow is under the intake... but this 3.slow goes a hell of a lot better than my 2002 dakota with a v6.....
I also have a leaky fuel injector so I need to take it apart to fix that (just noticed) and while the plenum is off I'll do an ohms check on the connector that goes down tot he knock sensor.... just have to go to Toyota to see what the resistance should be.... unless someone knows the resistance range of a knock sensor....????
 
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Ok, so I checked the knock sensor and its ok. The Toyota dealer tells me that now it may be in the line. To solve the problem I have to run a Coax cable from the knock sensor to the computer away from the harness. I'm thinking, not a problem... My question is...
Has any done this and are there any helpful tips for me to go on???
 
ray299 said:
Ya, 3.slow is under the intake... but this 3.slow goes a hell of a lot better than my 200 dakota with a v6.....
I also have a leaky fuel injector so I need to take it apart to fix that (just noticed) and while the plenum is off I'll do an ohms check on the connector that goes down tot he knock sensor.... just have to go to Toyota to see what the resistance should be.... unless someone knows the resistance range of a knock sensor....????
Click to expand...


i seached the FSM in both the 3VZ-E and 22RE sections for any knock sensor test specified by Toyota.
I did not find such a test.

since the sensor uses a co axial cable, it is possible to check if the sheild is shorted to conductor wire.
disconnect the plugs on the ECU. use an ohm meter at the sensor connector and it should be infinite.

look up the pinout KNK on your ECU, in the FSM. check the KNK pinout and the plug end for 0.0 ohms

with every thing connected execpt the sensor plug. i imagine you could test the sensor while running.

check for ground using ohms. probe the center pin on the sensor and measure the other side on block ground.

i would imagine the ohms will fluctuate. a lot like a oxygen sensor does.

:cheers:
 
WristPin said:
i seached the FSM in both the 3VZ-E and 22RE sections for any knock sensor test specified by Toyota.
I did not find such a test.

since the sensor uses a co axial cable, it is possible to check if the sheild is shorted to conductor wire.
disconnect the plugs on the ECU. use an ohm meter at the sensor connector and it should be infinite.

look up the pinout KNK on your ECU, in the FSM. check the KNK pinout and the plug end for 0.0 ohms

with every thing connected execpt the sensor plug. i imagine you could test the sensor while running.

check for ground using ohms. probe the center pin on the sensor and measure the other side on block ground.

i would imagine the ohms will fluctuate. a lot like a oxygen sensor does.

:cheers:
Click to expand...

The local Toyota dealer told me to test the sensor by disconnecting it at the pigtail and set the meter on AC voltage. Next rap the block with a wrench. If the sensor is working you will get a small AC volage. I did and the sensor seems to be working accordingly... They said if the sensor is reading AC voltage, there is a short in the line to the ECU. I swapped out an ECU and it still read the code 52 so through process of elimination... I'm guessing that its in the coax line... I have to now fiure out how to splice in a coax line. The only thing I have to go off of is that the Toyota dealer said I had to ground both sides of the cable...
 
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