Code 25/26 Process of elimination, tips?
- Thread starter RockPaws
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- Thread starter
- #42
I know this is ridiculous, but can someone please tell me the secret to getting the wire harness off the TPS without forcing it with a screwdriver and hammer? (That's how I ultimately had to remove the AFM harness and a couple tiny pieces broke off that help hold the spring collar in place.) I don't understand why these [insert curse] harnesses aren't made to easily depress a tab and pull them off. This one has a small slot as if for a screwdriver (which I tried), and a back tab that runs through a perpendicular collar, but it didn't do the trick. (I can foresee myself breaking every darn harness in here on my way to "fixing" this truck!)
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- Jan 8, 2006
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Welcome to the club!
The V6 is different from the 4 banger, so I can't help ya now.... Someone will pipe in I'm sure. And good for you for jumping in to figure out how to fix your truck. So many people give up because "It's too hard" which is lame, I've rebuild a 22R, tightened carrier bearings, essentially rebuild my t-case when I put in Marlin gears, rebuilt a front axle and not one thing was hard about any of it! Yeah, you need some fancy tools here and there, and good advice is priceless, but anyone with 2 hands and some patience can do just about anything. So
to you!
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks! I needed that. 
I just ran in to tell ya that I was wondering if you guys were having me do this to get a good laugh! Have you ever tried to slip a feeler gauge under the throttle screw on this engine?? (CHRIS ANGEL, HELP!!) Btw the page you linked me to is great. Except the pic of the throttle body is the 22RE and mine is designed different, so it's taken me awhile to find the throttle screw... (I was in denial for the last hour that it was the one it really is). The good news is, the first reading (no feeler required) is 750 ohms -- right in spec.
The bad news is, I am about out of options as to how to insert the feeler when there is literally no clear path. I almost got it near but my back was breaking from standing on the chair and bending over the engine. I stopped for a cherry cigarello and to come in here and make sure you guys weren't doing this on purpose. (I can see you PM'ing this morning... "Oh yeah... let's tell her to spec the TPS! That should be a riot!")
Truly though, it almost seems like I will have to remove the TB to do this, and I can't b/c then it's getting no juice to take the readings!
But, I do love this. Last night I was thinking it would be fun to rebuild an engine with plenty of time and the right tools (not that I need to now). I totally see why you good men are into wrenching. And I thank each of you again for helping me.
Will report again later....
PS I'm getting my keyboard dirty.
Sorry to introduce chat. I'll shut up now and go back to my hellish feeler guage task.
I just ran in to tell ya that I was wondering if you guys were having me do this to get a good laugh! Have you ever tried to slip a feeler gauge under the throttle screw on this engine?? (CHRIS ANGEL, HELP!!) Btw the page you linked me to is great. Except the pic of the throttle body is the 22RE and mine is designed different, so it's taken me awhile to find the throttle screw... (I was in denial for the last hour that it was the one it really is). The good news is, the first reading (no feeler required) is 750 ohms -- right in spec. The bad news is, I am about out of options as to how to insert the feeler when there is literally no clear path. I almost got it near but my back was breaking from standing on the chair and bending over the engine. I stopped for a cherry cigarello and to come in here and make sure you guys weren't doing this on purpose. (I can see you PM'ing this morning... "Oh yeah... let's tell her to spec the TPS! That should be a riot!")
Truly though, it almost seems like I will have to remove the TB to do this, and I can't b/c then it's getting no juice to take the readings!
But, I do love this. Last night I was thinking it would be fun to rebuild an engine with plenty of time and the right tools (not that I need to now). I totally see why you good men are into wrenching. And I thank each of you again for helping me.
Will report again later....
PS I'm getting my keyboard dirty.
Sorry to introduce chat. I'll shut up now and go back to my hellish feeler guage task.
- Thread starter
- #46
Report:
.............. F.Gauge.....Spec........... My Reading
1. VTA-E2 (0.000) .... 200-800 ..........[MR: 750]
2. IDL-E2 (0.020") .... < 2.3k ......... [MR: non-responsive]
3. IDL-E2 (0.030") ... Open/Infinite .....[MR: non-responsive (or infinity and therefore okay per Wristy's earlier post to me?]
4. VTA-E2 (WOT) ... 3.3k-10k............ [MR: 4.55]
5. Vcc-E2 (n/z) ..... 4.0k-9.0k........... [MR: 6.11]
The instructions say that the gap may vary, but I tried getting a response for test#2 by gradually increasing the feeler gauge thickness up to 10x more than what was suggested and never got a response for IDL-E2. Also tried the meter at different settings, even though the 20k setting s/b correct (and the instructions even say so).
So would you agree I need to adjust it? Or does the lack of a reading point to another clue or symptom?
The good news is I found a good way to slip in the feeler gauge so it was easy after all.
.............. F.Gauge.....Spec........... My Reading
1. VTA-E2 (0.000) .... 200-800 ..........[MR: 750]
2. IDL-E2 (0.020") .... < 2.3k ......... [MR: non-responsive]
3. IDL-E2 (0.030") ... Open/Infinite .....[MR: non-responsive (or infinity and therefore okay per Wristy's earlier post to me?]
4. VTA-E2 (WOT) ... 3.3k-10k............ [MR: 4.55]
5. Vcc-E2 (n/z) ..... 4.0k-9.0k........... [MR: 6.11]
The instructions say that the gap may vary, but I tried getting a response for test#2 by gradually increasing the feeler gauge thickness up to 10x more than what was suggested and never got a response for IDL-E2. Also tried the meter at different settings, even though the 20k setting s/b correct (and the instructions even say so).
So would you agree I need to adjust it? Or does the lack of a reading point to another clue or symptom?
The good news is I found a good way to slip in the feeler gauge so it was easy after all.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #47
Update: I tried test#2 again after a rest and a meal. I started at 0.012" and worked my way up but got infinity readings every time. In the instructions this indicates a bad TPS. However, when I don't use a feeler gauge and start at zero gap, the reading is 51 ohms... then keeping the probes on E2 & IDL I manually rotated forward the linkage. As soon as the pressure was enough to cause any gap at all between the throttle screw and stop lever, resistance started changing.... it climbed (albeit erratically since I couldn't manually move it delicately enough) until it jumped to infinity. I tried this exercise several times, trying to stop at the 'sweet spot" just before it jumped, but the highest number I reached before jumping was 1185 ohms which flashed momentarily.
(After seeing this is when I tried the lower feeler gauge thicknesses, thinking that maybe the problem was starting with a 0.020" gap. But again, the smallest thickness of 0.012" is still too thick and already reads infinity.... as do all the thicknesses following it.)
So from reading the link, it says that it doesn't really matter at what point the TPS transitions, except if this point is set too close to zero it can cause a rough idle if the throttle were to stick open a tad, [and if set too far out, it can cause sluggishness]. I'd say mine is set real close to zero. Maybe the rough idle event I had (that triggered the CEL at one point) was a result of the throttle sticking a tad and this set-point being so close to zero?
Gee Jerod, you might have found the problem! (Or at least something that can stand to be tweaked.)
(After seeing this is when I tried the lower feeler gauge thicknesses, thinking that maybe the problem was starting with a 0.020" gap. But again, the smallest thickness of 0.012" is still too thick and already reads infinity.... as do all the thicknesses following it.)
So from reading the link, it says that it doesn't really matter at what point the TPS transitions, except if this point is set too close to zero it can cause a rough idle if the throttle were to stick open a tad, [and if set too far out, it can cause sluggishness]. I'd say mine is set real close to zero. Maybe the rough idle event I had (that triggered the CEL at one point) was a result of the throttle sticking a tad and this set-point being so close to zero?
Gee Jerod, you might have found the problem! (Or at least something that can stand to be tweaked.)
- Thread starter
- #49
I found the vacuum leak! Codes gone, truck runs great.
I *am* going to adjust the TPS though, b/c the idle transition is set way too low which might explain the occasional rough idle while sitting at a light. So thanks, Jerod for directing me there! And thanks to everyone else too for all of the help and advice.
I *am* going to adjust the TPS though, b/c the idle transition is set way too low which might explain the occasional rough idle while sitting at a light. So thanks, Jerod for directing me there! And thanks to everyone else too for all of the help and advice.
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Congrats Terry!!! Very glad to hear it! Lets hope the codes stay away! Hehehe
Very glad to hear it! Lets hope the codes stay away! Hehehe
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