Clutch booster elimination

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And for my second new-to-me BJ74 situation, looks like the clutch booster might be toast. I think it's kinda dumb, and honestly I didn't even know these things had a clutch booster until things started going south and I looked into it. Currently my engine doesn't want to shut off, which is fun. My wife is gonna love that one when she finds out. I have a master rebuild kit and a booster seal on the way to see if it'll help, but after playing around with it I think the offending seal is on the pedal side, which blows. Anyone have a solution for eliminating this thing and just running a standard master? What can be done about engine shutoff that doesn't involve something ghetto fabulous like a string or something on the shut down solenoid? I bought this vehicle to stay classy.... I did test the solenoid, I can pull the line coming off of the firewall and plug it with my thumb with the key off and the engine shuts down.
 

Onur

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I highly recommend that before you start a new thread for every problem associated with your truck, that you do a search in the 70 series section first to find answers to your questions. Use keyword searches in google: do you know how to do that?

Most everything you want to do to your truck or is broken with your trucks has been discussed in this section over the past 15 years or more. The Diesel/24v section of MUD is also a wealth of information. Spend time there as well.
 
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I highly recommend that before you start a new thread for every problem associated with your truck, that you do a search in the 70 series section first to find answers to your questions. Use keyword searches in google: do you know how to do that?

Most everything you want to do to your truck or is broken with your trucks has been discussed in this section over the past 15 years or more. The Diesel/24v section of MUD is also a wealth of information. Spend time there as well.
With all due respect, I’ve been around ‘Mud for a long time and searched this topic and couldn’t find an answer, I know how this works, thanks. Plenty on booster replacement, couldn’t find an answer on elimination or compatibility. If someone has a link that would be great, maybe I’m not searching the right keywords.
 

Onur

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With all due respect, I’ve been around ‘Mud for a long time and searched this topic and couldn’t find an answer, I know how this works, thanks. Plenty on booster replacement, couldn’t find an answer on elimination or compatibility. If someone has a link that would be great, maybe I’m not searching the right keywords.

:lol:

The two screen shots took me all of 2 mins to find the answers to your questions. Some (amazing I know) over 10 years old.

7DC9D645-65AF-4A59-B3C3-350D444B8637.png



F681781D-1278-4511-BFE2-910CF28F167D.png
 
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:lol:

The two screen shots took me all of 2 mins to find the answers to your questions. Some (amazing I know) over 10 years old.

View attachment 2075895


View attachment 2075896
Pardon my short reaction but I’ve been obsessed about this and have searched for this several different ways and didn’t find a definitive answer. Still no exact how to, but I copied your search terms in Google and got a little further along.
 

Onur

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Pardon my short reaction but I’ve been obsessed about this and have searched for this several different ways and didn’t find a definitive answer. Still no exact how to, but I copied your search terms in Google and got a little further along.
Well, here is your time to shine and actually contribute to the forum by writing the definitive clutch booster delete thread.

Thats what I’d do if I wanted to support a deep body of tribal technical knowledge...
 

FJBen

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So the parts ARE different in the pedal assemblies and such for the boosted vs non-boosted clutches. How much difference that actually makes I don't know.

My BJ74 is non-boosted, it's an Australian market vehicle. My pedal looks like the second bracket that has the pointy front on it. If I'm reading correctly, it's part number: 55107-90K00 for non-boosted.


This shows :
non.png



boosted clutch.png


boosty.png


In reading in the past on here, people who have removed the booster have had issues breaking the bracket. My guess is that the non-boosted brackets are much more supported and beefy to hold up to harder pedal pressure compared to the boosted unit.

That said, they also have 2 different Master Cylinders for boosted vs non-boosted. I couldn't find a replacement non-boosted master cylinder so I had to rebuild mine. The Non-boosted has 2 bolts for the master, the boosted has 3. You can't interchange them.

I'm guessing you would have to buy/find a non-boosted master cylinder, plus the pedal hanging bracket and search the parts database to see what bits and pieces are different. OR buy a new booster/seal and replace your master cylinder (and slave it will probably go soon) and be done with it.

part number non.png
 
Last edited:

FJBen

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As for the shutdown issue, I bet when you fix the clutch booster, your vehicle shut's down correctly.

You can pull the vacuum line to the clutch booster and plug it and if it shuts off with key, then you know the problem.

Welcome to mud.
 
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So the parts ARE different in the pedal assemblies and such for the boosted vs non-boosted clutches. How much difference that actually makes I don't know.

My BJ74 is non-boosted, it's an Australian market vehicle. My pedal looks like the second bracket that has the pointy front on it. If I'm reading correctly, it's part number: 55107-90K00 for non-boosted.


This shows :
View attachment 2076064


View attachment 2076063

View attachment 2076072

In reading in the past on here, people who have removed the booster have had issues breaking the bracket. My guess is that the non-boosted brackets are much more supported and beefy to hold up to harder pedal pressure compared to the boosted unit.

That said, they also have 2 different Master Cylinders for boosted vs non-boosted. I couldn't find a replacement non-boosted master cylinder so I had to rebuild mine. The Non-boosted has 2 bolts for the master, the boosted has 3. You can't interchange them.

I'm guessing you would have to buy/find a non-boosted master cylinder, plus the pedal hanging bracket and search the parts database to see what bits and pieces are different. OR buy a new booster/seal and replace your master cylinder (and slave it will probably go soon) and be done with it.

View attachment 2076070
Thanks that clarifies things, that's what I was looking for couldn't find it. Looks like the best answer is keeping the booster assembly. I have the front seal and a master rebuild on the way, I'm crossing my fingers that'll work but I have a hunch I'll end up having to replace the booster. I found a Chinese company that makes them new, normally I wouldn't go in that direction but it's looking like the cleanest way to go.
 
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As for the shutdown issue, I bet when you fix the clutch booster, your vehicle shut's down correctly.

You can pull the vacuum line to the clutch booster and plug it and if it shuts off with key, then you know the problem.

Welcome to mud.
I finally found a vacuum diagram and figured out how everything works last night, and plugging the main line does indeed shut the vehicle down. I'm gonna plug it until I get the seal in the booster and see what happens.

And thanks for the welcome. I've actually been here a long time, just not a big presence, especially not in the 70 section. I had an HZJ73 a few years ago but I was stupid and got rid of it, now I'm back with this BJ74.
 

FJBen

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I finally found a vacuum diagram and figured out how everything works last night, and plugging the main line does indeed shut the vehicle down. I'm gonna plug it until I get the seal in the booster and see what happens.

And thanks for the welcome. I've actually been here a long time, just not a big presence, especially not in the 70 section. I had an HZJ73 a few years ago but I was stupid and got rid of it, now I'm back with this BJ74.
Nice, that should fix it. I took a few years off of mud/cruisers as well. Sure would like a few cruisers back I stupidly sold.

how did you like/compare the HZJ73 to the BJ74?
 
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Nice, that should fix it. I took a few years off of mud/cruisers as well. Sure would like a few cruisers back I stupidly sold.

how did you like/compare the HZJ73 to the BJ74?
The HZJ73 was a little better sorted (bought from LCD), but this BJ74 is a little cleaner and has never been in the dirt. I bought this off of Craigslist for such a good deal that it's ok if it isn't rough around the edges. When I got my HZJ73 from Steve it didn't need a thing. My HZJ73 had seen some time in the country in Japan and it showed it. The 1HZ is less exciting than the 13BT, it's super smooth and quiet, more grunt out of the gate but falls on its face once you're moving. The 13BT is a rowdy little tractor engine. It's super grumpy until you wake it up, but it's "normal" after it get's warm. Once you wind it up and build some boost it moves the truck. The 1HZ is a bonafide passenger vehicle engine, the 13BT is exactly what you would expect from an old school turbo 4 banger: loud, rattly and fun. I like them both for different reasons, I am liking the 13BT for what it is.

The HZJ73 had e lockers, this has cable lockers. Cable lockers are hands down the coolest damned thing ever installed on a 4x4. When I ran a 4x4 shop I would always try to steer customers to Ox lockers, this is the same only in OE form. I like the LX interior of the BJ74 a little more than the slightly updated ZX Interior of the HZJ73, there's a little more room without the big door arm rests, I think other than the arm rests and the switches everything is the same.
 
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I definitely prefer the LX interior over the ZX interior like you stated above for the same reasons.

Anyways, about the clutch booster. It was not working on my FJ73 that I sold awhile back. Replacement was NLA so I just disabled it and continued to use the truck as is, just have to use a bit more muscle. Not sure how simple this would be to do if the booster is inside the cabin like on the RHD models but it was pretty simple on the LHD FJ73 because it is located inside the engine bay.
 

FJBen

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The HZJ73 was a little better sorted (bought from LCD), but this BJ74 is a little cleaner and has never been in the dirt. I bought this off of Craigslist for such a good deal that it's ok if it isn't rough around the edges. When I got my HZJ73 from Steve it didn't need a thing. My HZJ73 had seen some time in the country in Japan and it showed it. The 1HZ is less exciting than the 13BT, it's super smooth and quiet, more grunt out of the gate but falls on its face once you're moving. The 13BT is a rowdy little tractor engine. It's super grumpy until you wake it up, but it's "normal" after it get's warm. Once you wind it up and build some boost it moves the truck. The 1HZ is a bonafide passenger vehicle engine, the 13BT is exactly what you would expect from an old school turbo 4 banger: loud, rattly and fun. I like them both for different reasons, I am liking the 13BT for what it is.

The HZJ73 had e lockers, this has cable lockers. Cable lockers are hands down the coolest damned thing ever installed on a 4x4. When I ran a 4x4 shop I would always try to steer customers to Ox lockers, this is the same only in OE form. I like the LX interior of the BJ74 a little more than the slightly updated ZX Interior of the HZJ73, there's a little more room without the big door arm rests, I think other than the arm rests and the switches everything is the same.

Seems about right. I feel my 13BT is pretty smooth and non-grumpy, but it was also just completely rebuilt so that may be some of it. I would assume the 1HZ is smoother just on the design of an inline 6.

Cable lockers was the option I was hoping to get on mine for sure. Super cool! I got 5spd, 13BT 12v, just no lockers. It's alright, I have ARB's, but cable lockers would have been the icing on the cake.
 
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Welcome to the 70 Series Tech Section. As you can tell from this short thread, most folks are willing to help.
I'd say everyone is; it's just that some folks get their words jumbled up and come across as unapologetically patronizing. I wish it was not so, but then again, all of us can be misunderstood.

By the way, if you decide to replace any more components of your clutch system, Cruiser Brothers made me a very nice stainless clutch hose to replace the OE one, which is now NLA.
 
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