"Clunk" question

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Joined
May 13, 2006
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Location
West of the Pecos
I'm a newbie, so please bear with me...

My FJ80 had a nice big "Cruiser clunk" when I bought it. That is gone now with replacement of all the u-joints (2 out of the 4 were bad) and cleaning/greasing of the splines on the driveshafts.

Here is my question: When I shift from park to drive or reverse, there is a very slight hesitation - maybe one second - then I can feel and hear the transmisson shift into gear. Nothing loud or obnoxious, just a slight audible "bump" and the truck "bumps" forward or backward like it's ready to go. Is this normal, or should I be worried?
 
It should not take a second, maybe a half a one. I have the same type of problem in that I have a slight clunk moving from reverse to drive. It's now been isolated down to transfer case slope that has built up over the years.

You might want to adjust the kickdown cable for the hesitation problem.
 
Kickdown cable? Is that what it's called in the manual?

It might not be a full second's hesitation. It's just not instantaneous, like it is in my 2002 Chevy pickup. And it's a definite "bump" into gear that you can feel/hear. Not exactly something that I would normally find worrisome, it's just different from the 3 or 4 Chevys I've driven (which are the only other auto transmission rigs I've ever driven).

I drained/filled the transmission with Mobile 1 ATF a week ago, and plan to drive it for 1000 miles or so and then drop the pan, clean the screen etc and refill with Mobile 1 (as opposed to doing a flush or "fluid exchange", which I have been advised against). I also need to drain/fill the transfer case and front/rear diffs, so maybe all that will help things as well. Just haven't gotten it all done yet.
 
ashooter said:
Kickdown cable? Is that what it's called in the manual?

The FSM actually calls it the throttle cable; in this case what they mean is the one that goes from the back of the throttle body down to the tranny. BTW, you probably want the stopper further from the boot than shown (page AT-13), as the cable stretches noticeably over time.

Also, page AT-16 has specifications for time lag between shifts.

Curtis
 
ashooter said:
(as opposed to doing a flush or "fluid exchange", which I have been advised against).

I don't think anyone here is against a DIY passive exchange, and many would highly recommend it. Directions are probably in the FAQ?

Curtis
 
CJF said:
I don't think anyone here is against a DIY passive exchange, and many would highly recommend it. Directions are probably in the FAQ?

Curtis

I can't remember who it was, but somebody here advised me that I might be better off just draining/filling multiple times rather than doing the "fluid exchange" as per the faq. Something about breaking loose varnish built up in the system and causing big problems, whereas if you ease over to synthetic it dissolves/disspates over time.

One issue here is that I just bought this thing a few weeks ago, so I have no idea what kind of fluid was in there to start with or how long it had been in there.
 

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