Checking the Neutral Safety Switch Wiring

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Apr 28, 2010
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In my troubles of trying to figure out what's wrong with my 1996 Landcruiser, I've taken the neutral safety switch wiring harness off and inspected it on several occasions. This last time, I decided to give back a bit by taking some pics as I did it. It was fairly frustrating for me to figure out how to get it off, get the plastic tab out, and get the individual wires out of the harness, so here's some pics to possibly make it easier for someone else.

1. Climb under your car from the driver's side and scoot across to where your head is almost sticking out the passenger side. The Neutral Safety Switch is on the passenger side of the vehicle on the side of the transmission. The driveshaft is kind of in the way, but you do not need to remove it to just get at the neutral safety switch harness.

2. I use two flathead screwdrivers to remove the harness from the NSS. Use one to press in the tab, and the other to pry (gently) up the neutral safety switch. Be careful and go slow with this. Pry from each side a bit at a time.

.jpg



3. Here's a pic of it almost off...from here I can just pull the harness off, and work it over the transmission to the other side....you can access it much easier from that side. As you're doing that, you might wrap it around some of the other wires up there, if you feed it right, the harness drops down pretty far where it's easy to work on.

IMG_20130810_091129.jpg


4. Now that you have the wiring harness off the NSS and easily accessible to you on the driver's side of the transmission, it'll probably be pretty messy. Wipe off the grease as much as you can and you'll start to see the white plastic insert that helps hold it all together. The parts of the harness that are stationary are gray, the plastic insert is white, you should be able to see pretty easily which is which. Here's a pic with the plastic insert pointed out:

IMG_20130810_091458.jpg


5. Next you need to get that plastic insert out, this is a little tricky, but it does eventually pull all the way out. You'll probably need a really small flathead screwdriver for this, and some needlenose pliers. I was able to slowly pry it out with the screwdriver far enough to get the pliers on it and then pull it all the way out. Go slow, and pry in different places, while being gentle enough not to break the gray plastic pieces of the connector. Here's a pic of it halfway out. From here I just grabbed it with the pliers and pulled it gently out, the whole thing is one piece:

IMG_20130810_091445.jpg


6. Now that the plastic insert is out, I would try and clean the grease out as much as possible, it'll help you see where you need to pry the tabs out of the way to pull the wires out.

7. Now, one of the most frustrating parts for me, which is why I took the pics. The two main wires that you need to worry about are the Black/White wire (which comes from the ignition) and the Black/Red wire (which goes to the starter). These wires have connectors at the end that go into the harness. Here's a stolen picture from adalnay's post of what those connectors look like:

attachment.php


Those connector ends are held in place in the gray wiring harness by the little tabs in this picture below:

.jpg


As you can see on the left one in the pic, I stick a small screwdriver to push the tab down away from the wire connector...that's what frees the the wire connector in the harness, and you're able to pull the wire out. I like to grab the wire with a pair of needlenose pliers and pull it out as I have the tab depressed.

Do that to both wires to get them out of the wiring harness. From here just inspect them and determine what you want to do. Mine were both in pretty condition so I've ruled out the NSS wiring harness as my issue.
 
I know it’s an old post and I’m totally necroposting here, but this helped me a TON!
Thanks for the pics and write up.
 
In my troubles of trying to figure out what's wrong with my 1996 Landcruiser, I've taken the neutral safety switch wiring harness off and inspected it on several occasions. This last time, I decided to give back a bit by taking some pics as I did it. It was fairly frustrating for me to figure out how to get it off, get the plastic tab out, and get the individual wires out of the harness, so here's some pics to possibly make it easier for someone else.

1. Climb under your car from the driver's side and scoot across to where your head is almost sticking out the passenger side. The Neutral Safety Switch is on the passenger side of the vehicle on the side of the transmission. The driveshaft is kind of in the way, but you do not need to remove it to just get at the neutral safety switch harness.

2. I use two flathead screwdrivers to remove the harness from the NSS. Use one to press in the tab, and the other to pry (gently) up the neutral safety switch. Be careful and go slow with this. Pry from each side a bit at a time.

.jpg



3. Here's a pic of it almost off...from here I can just pull the harness off, and work it over the transmission to the other side....you can access it much easier from that side. As you're doing that, you might wrap it around some of the other wires up there, if you feed it right, the harness drops down pretty far where it's easy to work on.

IMG_20130810_091129.jpg


4. Now that you have the wiring harness off the NSS and easily accessible to you on the driver's side of the transmission, it'll probably be pretty messy. Wipe off the grease as much as you can and you'll start to see the white plastic insert that helps hold it all together. The parts of the harness that are stationary are gray, the plastic insert is white, you should be able to see pretty easily which is which. Here's a pic with the plastic insert pointed out:

IMG_20130810_091458.jpg


5. Next you need to get that plastic insert out, this is a little tricky, but it does eventually pull all the way out. You'll probably need a really small flathead screwdriver for this, and some needlenose pliers. I was able to slowly pry it out with the screwdriver far enough to get the pliers on it and then pull it all the way out. Go slow, and pry in different places, while being gentle enough not to break the gray plastic pieces of the connector. Here's a pic of it halfway out. From here I just grabbed it with the pliers and pulled it gently out, the whole thing is one piece:

IMG_20130810_091445.jpg


6. Now that the plastic insert is out, I would try and clean the grease out as much as possible, it'll help you see where you need to pry the tabs out of the way to pull the wires out.

7. Now, one of the most frustrating parts for me, which is why I took the pics. The two main wires that you need to worry about are the Black/White wire (which comes from the ignition) and the Black/Red wire (which goes to the starter). These wires have connectors at the end that go into the harness. Here's a stolen picture from adalnay's post of what those connectors look like:

attachment.php


Those connector ends are held in place in the gray wiring harness by the little tabs in this picture below:

.jpg


As you can see on the left one in the pic, I stick a small screwdriver to push the tab down away from the wire connector...that's what frees the the wire connector in the harness, and you're able to pull the wire out. I like to grab the wire with a pair of needlenose pliers and pull it out as I have the tab depressed.

Do that to both wires to get them out of the wiring harness. From here just inspect them and determine what you want to do. Mine were both in pretty condition so I've ruled out the NSS wiring harness as my issue.
I know this thread has been out for awhile, however, I wanted to contribute because my 96 had an intermittent starting problem, too. I found my problem to be a corroded wire/terminal connection going from the NSS to the starter. The long sought after female terminal is a: Sumitomo 4.8mm Sealed Female terminal TS187 for 10-12AWG wire. I found them available from Ballenger Motorsports, BMotorsports.com. The cost was less than $1.00 ea. Finding an OE pigtail or connector for the NNS was almost impossible.

Simply disassemble connector as stated by the OP and load with Lucas White Lithium upon reassembly. I hope this tiny bit of info is of some help to others.

Screen Shot 2021-03-08 at 12.12.08 PM.webp
 
I know this thread has been out for awhile, however, I wanted to contribute because my 96 had an intermittent starting problem, too. I found my problem to be a corroded wire/terminal connection going from the NSS to the starter. The long sought after female terminal is a: Sumitomo 4.8mm Sealed Female terminal TS187 for 10-12AWG wire. I found them available from Ballenger Motorsports, BMotorsports.com. The cost was less than $1.00 ea. Finding an OE pigtail or connector for the NNS was almost impossible.

Simply disassemble connector as stated by the OP and load with Lucas White Lithium upon reassembly. I hope this tiny bit of info is of some help to others.

View attachment 2607377
Thanks for the part numbers ITSharp. So you clean and replace the connectors. Did you have a special crimper for the connectors? also you say "load with lucas white litium " load the inside of the switch or load the connectors?
 
Thanks for the part numbers ITSharp. So you clean and replace the connectors. Did you have a special crimper for the connectors? also you say "load with lucas white litium " load the inside of the switch or load the connectors?
Yes. Carefully disassemble the connector as the OP stated. It will take some time, but be gentle. The connectors have a tab on the side and will slide out the back of the connector housing. The terminal/wire going to the starter from the NSS was totally corroded and broke when I was inspecting NSS connector assy. Clean the whole assembly with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to have a better view of the connector workings. A standard wire crimping tool or needle nose will help with the crimp. The crimping "wings" on the replacement terminal are not as round as they need to be, so you may want to use a nail or small diameter rod to roll the edges so encase the wire better, then crimp as normal. I bought several extra terminals in case I damaged one during the repair process.
 
Thanks for the part numbers ITSharp. So you clean and replace the connectors. Did you have a special crimper for the connectors? also you say "load with lucas white litium " load the inside of the switch or load the connectors?
I neglected to address your question. Load the connector with white lithium or silicone grease to keep moisture out of the electrical connections.
 
I neglected to address your question. Load the connector with white lithium or silicone grease to keep moisture out of the electrical connections.
one last question, does the NSS harness disconnect up near the body / easily removable from vehicle? Or do you have to preform this procedure up under the transmission on your back
?
 
1st post has a nice written description with pics.
Dude was working on a 96 and your 97 is the same.
 
Adding a small tip: IME it helps, before attempting to disconnect harness connectors that haven't been touched in 20+ years, to first spray them with Electronics cleaner (Quick dry or Regular) aimed at the seam between the two and the locking tab area. Do NOT use Carb or Brake cleaner; those solvents are too harsh and can damage rubber and plastic.

FWIW
 
1st post has a nice written description with pics.
Dude was working on a 96 and your 97 is the same.
I feel your pain Ted, also I must agree with you on the PO very descriptive write up, however the interesting part is he nor anyone else mentions if the harness section on a 95-97 can be completely removed via a connector "up-srtream". Furthermore early 80 series do have a different transmissions than the later years A343F and that other transmission might possibly have a different NSS unit (im not sure maybe they are the same...I m not one for knowing). When I asked itsharp a question, I simply wanted him to know I indeed have a later model with the A343F setup.
 
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