Chasing a "CLANK" Noise - Left Rear Wheel

[Blackford Oakes]

2013 LC, 77K miles, Bilstein 6112/5160

Went up to one of our state parks this weekend. Hit a few dirt roads going back and forth to a fishing spot. First leg on the road with windows down, no noise - second time on that road started hearing a metal-on-metal "clanking" noise coming from the left, rear wheel when the suspension is doing it's job. Sound also occurs when brakes are applied.

From that point on, on and off pavement, I now hear a metallic "CLANK" when hitting any significant surface bumps. Same happens when going over a speed bump at higher-than-idle speeds and occurs at the bottom of the down-travel.

I'm sure this could be a dozen different things. I haven't taken the wheel off yet. I've been using my hand brake quite a bit when parking since my shifter will give me a little "thunk" when there is movement after I shift to park. I don't know much about the hand brake components on these trucks (other than watching a video on adjustments using the star wheel), but maybe that's a possibility.

Thanks as always, guys.

 

[bloc]

Check shock mounting hardware, both top and bottom.

 

[Blackford Oakes]

Check shock mounting hardware, both top and bottom.

If need be, can I put a wrench on that lower mounting bolt under load or do I need to get it off the ground and let it hang? Is there a specific torque spec on these?

 

[bloc]

If need be, can I put a wrench on that lower mounting bolt under load or do I need to get it off the ground and let it hang? Is there a specific torque spec on these?

Weight actually should be on the suspension for the lower bolt to get the bushing captured in the correct ride-height orientation, 73ft-lbf for that bolt.

Upper will depend on the bilstein instructions.. probably easier to get at that nut if the suspension is dropped out, though for a pin-type mount the position doesn't matter for getting it correct.

 

[Blackford Oakes]

The lower mounting bolt on the shock was torqued to spec. I had really hoped this would be the culprit, but it turns out that the upper mounting bolt on the stem was loose, causing the washers on both sides of the bushing to bounce and clank.

God help you if you have to ever retighten this one on the ground. I backed up on a curb to get some extra space and somehow managed to get both tools and both hands positioned in between the tub and the exhaust/upper shock mount area. You have to blindly position and seat your tools - crescent wrench around the mounting bolt and then position a tiny 8mm wrench on the stem itself to keep it from turning with the mounting bolt. Then, you have to reposition everything with each turn. I did not have the tools to apply the recommended 53lb-ft on that bolt, but hopefully when I get it on a lift I can properly finish the job. I suppose an open, crescent style torque wrench it what the job calls for, but it would have to be somewhat compact to get in there.

Thanks @bloc.

 

[bloc]

The lower mounting bolt on the shock was torqued to spec. I had really hoped this would be the culprit, but it turns out that the upper mounting bolt on the stem was loose, causing the washers on both sides of the bushing to bounce and clank.

God help you if you have to ever retighten this one on the ground. I backed up on a curb to get some extra space and somehow managed to get both tools and both hands positioned in between the tub and the exhaust/upper shock mount area. You have to blindly position and seat your tools - crescent wrench around the mounting bolt and then position a tiny 8mm wrench on the stem itself to keep it from turning with the mounting bolt. Then, you have to reposition everything with each turn. I did not have the tools to apply the recommended 53lb-ft on that bolt, but hopefully when I get it on a lift I can properly finish the job. I suppose an open, crescent style torque wrench it what the job calls for, but it would have to be somewhat compact to get in there.

Thanks @bloc.

Any time.

I think they often list torque specs for stuff like this out of posterity, but I don't think it's possible to get a torque wrench and adapter in to tighten my kings, and yours would be even more of a challenge having to hold back on the shaft itself above the crossmember.

For tightening the nut.. again king is easier because I can just grip the shock body, but this is the key for doing it easily. As you tighten these things you'll feel the torque increase slowly as the rubber compresses, then suddenly as the metal washer hits the shoulder. That's when it needs a good tightening.. then you should be good to go.