changed gear oil now I have a problem.

[Andrewsreef]

Ok, I planned to change out my diffs and transfer case this AM as it have been 10k since I did it. Prior owner I do not think ever did this. I got the truck with 67k now has 78k.

I bought Redline gear oil and changed the rear out. The rear looked great as the old fluid looked new.

The transfer case was dirty. That supprised me with only 10k. I put the Redline in and should I do it again in 1000 miles or so to futher clean it up?

The real problem is the front diff. It was very, very dirty with the last stuff out looking like it may have had some grease in it. I put regular gl-5 90 weight back in until I can find out if I have an urgent situation here. About 10k ago I put some grease in the Birfields so did I cause this? I did not feel like I put to much perhaps half a tube total in both.

I have no evidence of any leaks at the birfields (as far as 90weight leaking out that I can see). They have some dry grease on them. Did grease enter the front diff and is that why it is black? Is this a 911 situation or can I change it out a few times?

I know I nead a birfield service at this milleage but I am not having any luck finding anyone local (Jacksonville, FL) who I feel comfortable working on it. Even the Toyota dealer I went to (I can try some others near by) does not really work on these anymore so they do not have any mechanics how no anything about this truck.

Thanks for the help.

Andrew

Thanks for all the help.

 

[clownmidget]

Andrew, do a search on this as it has been pounded to death but the short response is:
What's the condition of your front axle breather? Is it stock? If stock is it fxning properly? Better yet, why not extend it up into the engine bay and incorporate the OEM breather into some yard art? Seriously, the stock breather usually fails/plugs, doesn't allow any air movement while axle cycles hot/cold from use, gear oil blows past inner axle seals contaminating grease, grease/oil slurry contaminates diff, eventually birfs are drooling past felt/rubber gaskets behind wheels and diff if pooping puddin' when you change it out. Depending on how bad it it, even replacing the inner axle seals as part of a birf rebuild will still leave a lot of goo in the diff/axle housing that may need flushed. If not too bad, rapid changes of gear oil will eventually clear out most of the grease in the diff after a few times. Not addressing why the inner seals failed will only waste a bunch of time, $$$ and effort. Check inner axles too as scoring on these can cause seals to fail. I'm sure others will have other reasons too but I think these are the most common problems encountered. Easy breather extension how to on George Scolaro's website and others.
Mike R.

 

[Andrewsreef]

I have read through the posts but I still have a few questions?

1. "The transfer case was dirty. That supprised me with only 10k. I put the Redline in and should I do it again in 1000 miles or so to futher clean it up" Should I go 5 k and redo?



2. "About 10k ago I put some grease in the Birfields so did I cause this? I did not feel like I put to much perhaps half a tube total in both" IF this was to much, perhaps this is why it is in the diff?

Thanks

Andrew

 

[clownmidget]

Andrew,
Not sure how the xfer could get any contamination other than from the breather (extended to the tranny fill tube) or from internal wear. Maybe someone else will chime in but I'd change it out every oil change to see if any improvements.

When you say fill the birfs do you mean through the square fill plugs on the upper inside of the housing? Again, searches will show that most folks think this is bunk as any grease put in there will never find its way into the birf components that need it. I think the consensus it that you'll need to pull off the drive plates, spindle washers and nut in order to pull off the rotor (w/bearings) to inspect what it looks like in there. Sounds like a good time to rebuild the birfs, eh?

Good luck.
Mike R.

 

[tucker74]

1. "The transfer case was dirty. That supprised me with only 10k. I put the Redline in and should I do it again in 1000 miles or so to futher clean it up" Should I go 5 k and redo?

What did the xfer case look like before you changed it? When you say "dirty" - do you mean mixed with transmission fluid...metal bits? Could just be flushing still - or could be a problem depending on what's in there -

2. "About 10k ago I put some grease in the Birfields so did I cause this? I did not feel like I put to much perhaps half a tube total in both" IF this was to much, perhaps this is why it is in the diff?

If you have grease in your front diff it's one of two things - the breathers being clogged and creating suction or the oil seals failing all together (and needing replaced). At 70k I'd probably suspect the later ... better plan on doing a birf job. I've read many times about people filling the knuckle plug w/ grease...and still don't see the benefit in this. If you re-pack the birfields as recommended you should never need to add more grease (especially to the outside of the cavity). Read Eric’s post from his recent birf job - he actually filled his whole axle full of grease doing this

Hope this helps -



Tucker

 

[landtoy80]

Your t-case may on not been dirty. IThe gears are painted a drab green. The paint wears off and makes the oil greenish.

You may of pushed some grease in the diff. Just drain and fill a couple of times and see if it clears up. Then after a couple of thousand miles drain off a little and see if its clear.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Thanks guys. I know I need to have the Birfs done just trying to find someone to do it locally or I may try it myself but I think it is over my head. I am a CPA not a mechanic. I have done some mechanic work in highschool so I am not as bad as most CPAs about stuff like this.

The transfer case had no metal or anything like that. The fluid was just dark and after only 10k I expected it to be clean. I will drain and fill in 5 k again. I am going to do the same for now on the front diff until I can come up with a birfield solution.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[Doc]

Thanks guys. I know I need to have the Birfs done just trying to find someone to do it locally or I may try it myself but I think it is over my head. I am a CPA not a mechanic. I have done some mechanic work in highschool so I am not as bad as most CPAs about stuff like this.

Andrew- paying someone to do this job will cost between $700-$1200 depending on where you shop.

I did it myself a month or two ago for about $500 in parts. Plus, I got to buy a couple new tools for my collection, as well as the FSM- which is always good to have.

Plus, I got to learn a lot about the front axle and am not scared to dive in there anymore. It's NOT as hard as it's made out to be if you have the right tools.

PS- I'm a cell biologist, so I'm right there with ya on this one.

 

[Rich]

Generally speaking, it is a waste of time, effort, and lube to chnage transfer case and diff lubes after only 10K of use. 5k even more so. The only common exeception would be if you have been submerging the drivetrain under water.

A bit of grease in the front diff is not going to hurt the diff. It is a sign that grease is getting by the axle seals and into the diff. You would be better served to resolve why grease is getting by the seals, and not worry so much about changing good lube just because it has a bit of grease in it.

 

[erics_bruisers]

OMG Kurt -- what a great Avatar -- !!!!!

e

 

[landtoy80]

OMG Kurt -- what a great Avatar -- !!!!!

e

I need to get a sticker like that for the TURD.
I would put one on the 80 but the wife would kill me

You could change the t-case to get ride of the green paint is a waist of time.

 

[Rookie2]

Andrew,

As mentioned earlier in the thread, you may want to do the breather mod. first. It's low banana, just takes a little time. This will get rid of the vacuum you've got going on inside the axle, and that should reduce the amount of grease getting by the seal.

Also, just for sh!ts and giggles, you might take a peace of plastic hose and stick into the knuckle housing through the plug hole, then pull it out to check the consistancy of the grease on the hose, to see if you're getting any contamination (diff. oil) in the knuckle. Truely though, if you're not seeing substantial build-up/seepage past the felt, you probably don't have much oil getting past the seal to the knuckle side... which is good.

I don't see a problem with doing the frequent diff. drain & fills (using the cheap stuff for now) in order to monitor the situation, ... until you figure that you're going to tackle the knuckle job .


Rookie2

P.S. Structural Engineer with minimal mechanical experience prior to this rig and this site.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Rookie2, that is on the egenda for this weekend.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[robbie]

The reason that the t-case gets darker fast is that there is only 1.6 qts of fluid and it has to cool a full time t-case, this coupled with the t-case having a viscous coupler (which creates heat) adds up to the fluid working a lot harder then a part time case. Also if the PO never did any maintance then there will be alot of old baked on stuff inside the case. See it alot here at the shop. The t-case has a fluid pump to pump fluid to the end of the shafts on the out puts. The shafts have a little hole to allow the fluid to be pumped to the end of the shaft to force fluid though the coupler and the shifting mech on both outputs. But still not that great on fluid quanty. The fluid is not broken down that much, but still gets darker than one thinks it should. later robbie

 

[landtoy80]

When my t-case went bad it got SUPER HOT. It took several hours to cool down before the VC would releace (it would of took longer but hosed it off as i didn't want to wit any longer)
The oil was clean. i had changed it several months earlier.
When i changed the oil in the NEW t-case, it came out green.
The inside of my old t-case look clean with no signs of wear or hot (blue) bearings. 210,000 mi on it.