Chain

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Rather than continuing the discussion in the Christmas tree thread I thought I would try starting a new one. I got a full set today, thanks for the heads up JT. So my question is in cutting these down how tight should I make them or how is it best to measure before I cut? I'm thinking of cutting them down tomorrow night. I'm likely heading out for another hunt this coming weekend so I won't make the chain cutting party. Thanks.
 
Leon, I have my chains cut to were when they are tight, there are two extra links on each side. That may not work for you as the extra links might bang around on something, but I would leave at least one extra. Thing is, sometimes you have a twisted link somewhere, or a tread bar is stuck between lugs or something and they don't seem to fit the same, then you run them for ten minutes or so and they are all floppy and need to be tightened.

Are the chains from MHC camlocks? If not, you are going to to want to get rubber bungees to help keep the whiplash down.
 
They call them twist link cams. They have a cam about every 18" inches between links along the entire length of one side. On the end of the chains one side has what I would call a lever and for the other side of the tire there is a simple hook, make sense?
 
I cut mine so that I have no extra links on the inside and one extra link on the outside. I figure I can always get the back hooked first and I don't want extra chain in the back to hook on brake lines, tie rods or grease zerks on the tie rods.
 
Thanks for the info. Also found this. Looks like you don't need to weld if you don't want to, based on this description. Click on lilnk below.


TIRE CHAIN MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
 
I like having a few extra links on each side. IF I don't use said links, I wire them up so not to do damage to anything.
In a perfect world, you mount them in a perfect situation. But me not being in a perfect world and not that smart I haven't yet figured that out.
Some of the examples of the times I have needed a extra few links are:

-tires aired down and no way to air them up and you are already STUCK
-off camber, deep snow and aformentioned STUCK
-the need to jack it up to get the chains on, once again if I have to do that it means that I am STUCK (I have had to do this more than once) remember I said I wasn't too smart!

The thing to remember about chains is as with so many other things, it is better to have them and not need them than need them and not have them. I have more than once been laughed at and/or passed like I was standing still on Gold Camp Road only to pull out the same person that did the laughing and or passing later on down the road. It gets VERY slick on the way down late in the day. One of those said idiots was in a very well prepared, with winch (I hate to say this) fj40! He had MUCH bigger tires (35's) than I in my S-10 with one Lock-Right and 31" BFG MT's. BUT, I was chained up, had a Hi-Lift and the things needed to get him back on the road so he could safely follow me down. Yes, my smart-ass gave him the option of going down ahead of me.

Most of these situations have been while I was alone, many years ago.

Another thing that is good to have the equipment to do is to use your Hi-Lift jack to winch with. I learned how to do this in the most inopportune time. (in the same area we do our Christmas tree cutting in) Once again I was alone, but I have used that same process several times since then with others and alone. Even if you have a winch this is nice if you have the cable hooked up and are about to tip over. Some of the things that are nice to have in this instance are:

-60" Hi-Lift (for those of you that think a Hi-Lift is only good for jacking, it is good for MUCH more)
-Extensions, preferably cable as most of the travel of the Hi-Lift is used taking up the slack in whatever you are using (chain, rope, strap, cable) AND cable is much lighter to carry than chain, AND easier to get the slack out of by hand than any of the others.
-at LEAST one snatch block, preferably three
-shackles small enough to fit in your Hi -Lift

Once again, as long as you wheel with others, most of this doesn't apply. BUT most comes in handy at other times also. [a 68 ton tank STUCK and on it's side full of live ammo, one M88 recovery vehicle (only 56 tons with ONLY a 45 ton main winch) Which brings up another subject based on military experience.

You need to know what the capabilities and weight of the vehicile(s) you are using to get said vehicle out. As well as the weight of the stuck vehicle.

Reduction factors are things like mire depth, change of direction, vehicle inoperable, etc.

Do you REALLY trust your 8000 pound winch to get out your heavy assed 80, or _____?

I will try to get all this together in a post with more than off the top of my head crap, but for now it is what it is.
 
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Don,

I appreciate your perspective. What you wrote on the length is similar to what that article stated about cutting down chains, leave a little extra and wire it up. I also like the rest of what you posted on recovery in general. My main motivation for getting the chains now is going back for another elk hunt on a remote private ranch in NW CO. I'll be alone and the potential for icy roads/trails has me a little nervous.

I'll hi-jack my own thread and bring up something I talked to David Molter about a while back. I proposed using some monthly meeting time for a tech topic. For example, re-seating a bead in the field using a ratchet strap. Or to what Don posted, recovery. We could bring in some gear and talk through proper use then maybe schedule a time to go practice and show folks proper recovery techniques on the trail. Give a week or so notice after the meeting in case folks want to buy some equipment of their own to practice on. I have done some mild recovery of my own but I'm always interested in learning from others. What do you guys think?

Now out to the garage...
 
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That is an AWESOME idea. Instead of using a meeting time, I suggest we do both meeting time -1% meeting and 99% -book-learnin AND a run (hands-on) with the specific purpose of EVERYTHING. I think we waste SOOOOOOO much meeting time on the SOS Same OL S**t and could use it on GOOD stuff. The "normal" stuff could be gone through in 5 or 10 minutes and we could rotate the GOOD stuff throughout the year.

Everything being recovery, maintenance, communications, driving, safety, the importance of driving instead of having someone tell you where to go = SPOTTING, and all the things we expect or wish we would have known when we where THERE!

I would MUCH rather be a well versed, well rounded, smart, common sensed, wheeler with a J**p than some person who has never had to learn how to drive, STUCK, THINKS I know it all, needs somene to tell me which road, rock, turn, or crank of the steering wheel to take, (OK, maybe the "I" word was a little strong, better would be someone who has never "learned" how to drive) person, driving whatever!

Trevor has volunteered his fj40 for the "hands-on" portion of this on Independence, or better yet Carnage!!!!! (LOL, just kidding trying to be funny)
 
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Went and got my chains, ignored the guys behind the counter (robert) that kept saying they would not fit...now it's time for some cutting...here they are compared to the ones I already have.
:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce:
4132803612_f14fdb730c.jpg
 
BIG chains are cool as it doesn't matter how BIG they are, they can be made to fit small tires. The other way around, doesn't always work though!
 
I told them today that a 285/75, or 295/75 tire is the distance from bead up and over to the other bead. Since these are 22.5 rims it makes the diameter longer not the lenghth and width of the tire . Anyhow i told them just sell the damn chains. Customer is always right. So i guess they working for ya.
 
I told them today that a 285/75, or 295/75 tire is the distance from bead up and over to the other bead. Since these are 22.5 rims it makes the diameter longer not the lenghth and width of the tire . Anyhow i told them just sell the **** chains. Customer is always right. So i guess they working for ya.

They will work, they are almost the same as the ones I already have, they both have cams, except the new ones have some sort of lever on them. I will put the FJ in the garage and get them fitted. Not bad for 45 bucks, thanks for the tip. :clap::beer:
 
<------Thinks JT should be getting some commission on the chain sales at MHC.

At 45 bucks, you might as well walk in with a gun and steal them!

Awesome deal.

Trever, one of my sets didn't come with a tool, just bought some 1/2 inch round stock from home depot and grinder'd up my own! :D
 
Folks,
Happy Thanksgiving!!:bounce::bounce2:
 
No commision needed just one of the atributes i can offer fellow WHEELERS i am sure i will need help in tyhe future. Actually gonna be buying some steel for rear bumper and sliders in like 2 weeks could use some help there not so much in doing it just a place to do it. I'll pay for wire gas for welder what ever. Well hope everyone has a good turkry day, and look forward to dec. 5 or the next trail ride.

JT
 
OH gonna be in woodland park area saturday nov 28 & 29 looking for a place to rent, i need to be closer to the mountains (the addiction is sitting in, aahhh feels good)
 
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JT- How late in the evenings does the sales dept. at MHC stay open? I work till 5 everyday form tommorrow till next Friday. Stupid retail job in December:mad:

Those chains shouldn't be too wide for a stock size 275/70R16 right? I read Leon's article about cutting them down to length. Thanks for posting all the advice everyone!
 
Well my wife shot down my plan to buy a full set of chains today. She's racheting down on the budget till after Christmas. So unless someone has extras I can borrow next weekend I'll just have to be a runner.:meh:
 

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