semlin
curmudgeon
So I am adding the new version chain tensioner to my 93 and just realized I don't know how to install it. any tricks? Can anyone enlighten me?
chain tensioner question
- Thread starter semlin
- Start date
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The new version is a lot less complicated than the early 93 ratchet-type. Dip in in some engine oil to pre-lubricate it and stuff it in the hole.
cruiserdan said:
So Dan, can this be done with the head on and the oil pans on???
Yes, the tensioner can be replaced. The guide requires the timing cover to be removed which requires the pan to be removed and so-on.
cruiserdan said:
Okay, good to know, but can the head stay on at least?
semlin said:
Thanks, good to know, so basically what I'm getting at, is a stretch of thought something like, "well since I'm wanting to work out that rear pan arch problem at some future point ... I'll go ahead and replace the chain tensioner, chain guide, hell maybe even the chain itself" How's that thought sound!?! Hey my OCD needs an outlet.
turbocruiser said:
It is very tricky to drive the timing cover off without tearing the front of the head gasket in the process. I got lucky (in retrospect I almost wish it had torn so I would have had to pull the head off and I would now have the new gasket) and drove the cover off without breaking up the gasket.
I would not attempt to pull the timing cover with the cylinder head in place unless you have a back-up plan ready to pull the head if you need to. In addition there is a bit of "chicken and egg" going on here as the engine needs to be lifted off the front mounts to get tthe upper pan off. One usually would lift the engine using the lifting ring that is attached to the head. If you have the engine lifted off the mounts, using the ring, and then you find you need to remove the head you have painted yourself into a bit of a corner.
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cruiserdan said:
Yikes!
So I guess the message really really is ... "If it aint broke, dont fix it!"
turbocruiser said:Yikes!
Okay, thought about this too long, what is the proper repair procedure (pull the engine?) IF JUST the chain tensioner (sorry I meant chain guide) breaks? Yikes again.
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I'm not following why the front cover would have to come off to replace the chain tensioner. I've been in via the head removal and of course removed and replaced my chain tensioners. Seems to me the process would be:
1 - remove the two nuts holding the current tensioner on.
2 - immerse the new one and install it with a new gasket.
- Total time 2 minutes, 15 seconds if you pause for a sip of coffee -
What am I missing? The tensioner merely uses its spring to press the chain guide against the chain.
DougM
1 - remove the two nuts holding the current tensioner on.
2 - immerse the new one and install it with a new gasket.
- Total time 2 minutes, 15 seconds if you pause for a sip of coffee -
What am I missing? The tensioner merely uses its spring to press the chain guide against the chain.
DougM
IdahoDoug said:
Sorry Doug, I wrote tensioner, I meant guide. (First post edited). What I meant was what is the proper repair procedure if just the guide breaks ... somehow you'd havta lift the engine in a way so as to remove the oil pans and also in a way without using the lift points attached to the head? Seems tricky. Sorry again, not payin attention here apparently.
No, no.
The GUIDE.
EDIT:
I hit the key a touch too late......
Shaun you could lift the engine by jacking up the crank pulley, which, of course, has to come off to get the timing cover off...... I think that if I had to do both I would lift the engine with the head installed and then put blocks between the engine mounts and the frame and set it back down and then remove the head. Rick had to pull his pan after he had the head removed. Perhaps he will chime in with his procedure.
The GUIDE.
EDIT:
I hit the key a touch too late......
Shaun you could lift the engine by jacking up the crank pulley, which, of course, has to come off to get the timing cover off......
I think that if I had to do both I would lift the engine with the head installed and then put blocks between the engine mounts and the frame and set it back down and then remove the head. Rick had to pull his pan after he had the head removed. Perhaps he will chime in with his procedure.
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cruiserdan said:No, no.
The GUIDE.
EDIT:
I hit the key a touch too late......
Shaun you could lift the engine by jacking up the crank pulley, which, of course, has to come off to get the timing cover off......
Gotcha, like I wrote, I got mublejumbled; I remember Robbie taking the tensioner out exactly as easily as Doug mentions. In fact he bored her out for some faster pressure. I'm just wondering about that guide, seems a helluva procedure with lots of extra labor for something that should be somewhat easier to get to??? Ohh well, just the way my mind works!
The guide pivots on a shoulder bolt that is "way down there" and the only way to reach it is with the timing cover removed.
Here is a photo of the front of my engine with the timing cover removed and the guide also removed. The red box shows the spot the oil rifle plug came out of. The bolt hole that is visible below the red box is the one for the guide.
Here is a photo of the front of my engine with the timing cover removed and the guide also removed. The red box shows the spot the oil rifle plug came out of. The bolt hole that is visible below the red box is the one for the guide.
cruiserdan said:
Right, makes sense, but whats not making much sense is why the design mandates removing the pans and the head etc. Seems like so much extra labor $ and so much more parts $.
Perfect picture!!! BTW, you did that with the head on ... were the bolts tightened down fully? What trick worked to save the HG? I know now you would have rather replaced the HG then but if'n someone had a recently replaced HG that they wanted to salvage through this procedure how would someone do that? Again, its just the design of the thing that irks me.
The timing cover has studs protruding from the bottom that attach the upper oil pan. The front of the cylinder head gasket seals the top of the timing cover. The front two cylinder head bolts go down into the top of the timing cover.
