splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
, I'm sure he'd rather have something with a stick shift..
RE; the 026, any advantage of dropping an adjustable oiler in it?
Chain Saws
- Thread starter D'Animal
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, I'm sure he'd rather have something with a stick shift..RE; the 026, any advantage of dropping an adjustable oiler in it?
- Thread starter
- #162
If the oil pump is bad and needs replaced, replace it with an adjustable one.
If the pump is good and nothing wrong with it, don't spend the money to install an adjustable one.
If the pump is good and nothing wrong with it, don't spend the money to install an adjustable one.
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Oil pump is fine, dumped whatever runny stuff he had in the tank out along with the (what looked like 16:1 mix) in the fuel tank. Replaced both. Just finished buzzing through some Mesquite, what a nice lightweight well balanced machine. Can't wait to get it out in the field and compare it with the Husky 51/55 hybrid.
Hi @all, i came here when searching for help with my chainsaw and looks like here may be a couple of experts so im gonna ask and see if someone can help me So, the chainsaw is Stihl O51 AV, which i got from my mothers uncle, i already did a couple minor fix-ups like cleaning the carburetor, changing gas pad, fuel filter and lines and replacing starter cord, but this i cant figure out on my own.
The problem is that there's no oil flow, nothing is coming out to lubricate the chain. At first i thought that oil filter and hose are clogged but that's not the problem, i then went to a couple of services but they all refuse to work on it and one of them said to me that the issue is most likely a worn out axis that runs the oil pump. Then i saw this YT tutorial on MS 280 how to fix an oil pump but the design on 051 is different, first the clutch is on exterior, and there's no lid beneath witch is oil pump, theres an aluminium lid beneath clutch but that's just for protection against dirt. A far as i see the oil pump is inserted somehow into that block of chassis that is also an half of the oil tank. Now i still didnt opened it as i am stuck at removing the clutch, so far i've removed that first screw and took of the lid of the cluch but its not coming off. I've tried to to remove it with the tool attached but no luck, look like that its screwed on on these older models, and i thought that some sort of cone or incision is holding it in place. So first, how do i remove the cluch, and second what will that oil pump look like and how do i repair that axis, if that is the issue.
Please don''t recommend me to buy another saw, the ones in my price range that i tried just cant compare, with this one ive cut 60-70cm thick beech without any difficulty, the only other one that i've tried and can cut with such ease is my buddy's husqvarna xp 300 something(and of course much lighter and easier to use) but i cant afford anything like that for some time.
The problem is that there's no oil flow, nothing is coming out to lubricate the chain. At first i thought that oil filter and hose are clogged but that's not the problem, i then went to a couple of services but they all refuse to work on it and one of them said to me that the issue is most likely a worn out axis that runs the oil pump. Then i saw this YT tutorial on MS 280 how to fix an oil pump but the design on 051 is different, first the clutch is on exterior, and there's no lid beneath witch is oil pump, theres an aluminium lid beneath clutch but that's just for protection against dirt. A far as i see the oil pump is inserted somehow into that block of chassis that is also an half of the oil tank. Now i still didnt opened it as i am stuck at removing the clutch, so far i've removed that first screw and took of the lid of the cluch but its not coming off. I've tried to to remove it with the tool attached but no luck, look like that its screwed on on these older models, and i thought that some sort of cone or incision is holding it in place. So first, how do i remove the cluch, and second what will that oil pump look like and how do i repair that axis, if that is the issue.
Please don''t recommend me to buy another saw, the ones in my price range that i tried just cant compare, with this one ive cut 60-70cm thick beech without any difficulty, the only other one that i've tried and can cut with such ease is my buddy's husqvarna xp 300 something(and of course much lighter and easier to use) but i cant afford anything like that for some time.
- Thread starter
- #165
The 051 is a complete different saw than anything that has been talked about in this thread. I'm away from my Shed this week but when I get back I can take some pictures and do a step by step on the 051.
The clutch unscrews and comes off to the right. (Put that 3-jaw puller back in thr drawer before you break something expensive with it.)
The clutch unscrews and comes off to the right. (Put that 3-jaw puller back in thr drawer before you break something expensive with it.)
Well i was able to unscrew it with some makeshift tool i made by welding 3 pieces of rod onto metal plank.
I didnt see any damage on that oil pump axis that has spring on it, or on the cog-wheel that goes on axis, beneath them is some bearing that i think i shouldnt pull out. I removed that round spring safety from the front, beneath spikes and round plastic cap, but i could pull it out, it doesnt move a bit, is there some sort of trick how to get it out ? So i tried turning saw on without bearing oil seal to see does it work but it wouldnt start. Then i put it back, started the saw and put gasoline into oil tank to clear all oil routes ,cause i thought its clogged with dirt, nothing came out, i tried the same with paint thinner and again nothing came out. As i see it i need to open the oil tank, but all the screws are really fastened, and i think they were replaced because all of them have slot heads instead of hex, if i push them too hard i can damage them and just create another problem.
I didnt see any damage on that oil pump axis that has spring on it, or on the cog-wheel that goes on axis, beneath them is some bearing that i think i shouldnt pull out. I removed that round spring safety from the front, beneath spikes and round plastic cap, but i could pull it out, it doesnt move a bit, is there some sort of trick how to get it out ? So i tried turning saw on without bearing oil seal to see does it work but it wouldnt start. Then i put it back, started the saw and put gasoline into oil tank to clear all oil routes ,cause i thought its clogged with dirt, nothing came out, i tried the same with paint thinner and again nothing came out. As i see it i need to open the oil tank, but all the screws are really fastened, and i think they were replaced because all of them have slot heads instead of hex, if i push them too hard i can damage them and just create another problem.
- Thread starter
- #167
You are going about your oil pump all wrong on the 051. Stop tearing apart you saw before you break something.
I will get some pics this weekend.
I will get some pics this weekend.
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Might be just me, but I smell something fishy here...Almost to the point of stretching a chain.
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
No, not at all, you are in good hands with D'Animal. Be patient, before building any tools. (Sometimes I get in over my head here). Good luck
- Thread starter
- #172
I'm having a hard time loading the image.
PM me you email address and I will send you a pictorial breakdown.
Here, i posted the pic, didnt have time until now to work on it. Now when i remove parts numbered 12,13,17 and the rest on that side, and also when i remove 14,15,16 is all i have to do is to pull it out, because it tried and ints not coming out easily and i didnt want to apply more force as i might damage it, or this no. 10 (that i cannot access from outside) is some sort of screw that holds it in place.
- Thread starter
- #175
There is a screw hole in the top of # 5 you can clearly see after you remove 15 and 14. Put a screw in the hole but to not tighten it down. With the screw in the housing, pry the pump out of the crankcase.
You did make sure the oil line did not fall off inside the tank, right?
You did make sure the oil line did not fall off inside the tank, right?
No sense in starting another thread.
I have an MS360 (purchased in '03) that cuts funny (off to one side) on large logs.
I went in to get a new bar (it came with two chains) and the dealer was all "corn-fused" about the fact that the bar was stamped .063 (vs. the "normal" .050). They didn't have one in stock.
Now I am wondering if I am running a .050 chain in a .063 bar, which might result in the chain tipping off to one side, and not cutting straight.
Is the .063 bar normal for the MS360?
Can I just check the chain by measuring the thickness of the part of the chain that rides in the bar? ANSWER: Looks like it. My spare chain mikes out at .066 (with my Harbor Freight calipers).
Any positive way to determine if the bar is good? Any way to determine the chain size by looking at it? Is there an ID number somewhere?
Thanks
Rocky
I have an MS360 (purchased in '03) that cuts funny (off to one side) on large logs.
I went in to get a new bar (it came with two chains) and the dealer was all "corn-fused" about the fact that the bar was stamped .063 (vs. the "normal" .050). They didn't have one in stock.
Now I am wondering if I am running a .050 chain in a .063 bar, which might result in the chain tipping off to one side, and not cutting straight.
Is the .063 bar normal for the MS360?
Can I just check the chain by measuring the thickness of the part of the chain that rides in the bar? ANSWER: Looks like it. My spare chain mikes out at .066 (with my Harbor Freight calipers).
Any positive way to determine if the bar is good? Any way to determine the chain size by looking at it? Is there an ID number somewhere?
Thanks
Rocky
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- Thread starter
- #178
What Brand of chain are you running? If it is a STIHL Chain it will have a "3" stamped on the driver if it is 1.3mm or .050". It will have a "6" stamped on the driver if it is 1.6mm or .063".
You also need to look at the cutter tooth. Does it have .325 stamped in it near the front raker or does it have 3/8 stamped on it?
What is "Standard" really depends on what part of the country you are in. In the midwest states and new england state it is common to run the 034, 036, MS 360 with .325 pitch .063 gauge saw chain. They use big saws with short bars to cut the hardwood trees.
Out west it is common to run 3/8 pitch .050 or .063 gauge saw chain. They use medium saws with long bars. They mostly use the bar length for reaching as apposed to actually bending over. Also the trees are a softer wood so it cuts easier and does not pull the saw down.
You also need to look at the cutter tooth. Does it have .325 stamped in it near the front raker or does it have 3/8 stamped on it?
What is "Standard" really depends on what part of the country you are in. In the midwest states and new england state it is common to run the 034, 036, MS 360 with .325 pitch .063 gauge saw chain. They use big saws with short bars to cut the hardwood trees.
Out west it is common to run 3/8 pitch .050 or .063 gauge saw chain. They use medium saws with long bars. They mostly use the bar length for reaching as apposed to actually bending over. Also the trees are a softer wood so it cuts easier and does not pull the saw down.
Thanks, Guys-
I am running Stihl chains. They are marked "6" and "3/8". So it looks like the bar and saw are matched.
I had both the chains sharpened professionally, so I HOPE both sets of cutters are sharp. I'll try the new bar (Maybe a new matching chain). Thanks
Rocky
I am running Stihl chains. They are marked "6" and "3/8". So it looks like the bar and saw are matched.
I had both the chains sharpened professionally, so I HOPE both sets of cutters are sharp. I'll try the new bar (Maybe a new matching chain). Thanks
Rocky
- Thread starter
- #180
If your bar rails are worn unevenly it will cut crooked.
I don't know of a shop in Tucson that has a Bar Shop but if anybody would it would be Maria at American Outdoor. A Bar Shop is a unique piece of machinery that uses a modified bench grinder and trues the rails of a guide bar. You can also do it with a flat file or a Bar Rail filing gauge.
If the guide bar is bent, it will cut crooked. Depending on the design of the bar will depend on if it can be straightened.
I don't know of a shop in Tucson that has a Bar Shop but if anybody would it would be Maria at American Outdoor. A Bar Shop is a unique piece of machinery that uses a modified bench grinder and trues the rails of a guide bar. You can also do it with a flat file or a Bar Rail filing gauge.
If the guide bar is bent, it will cut crooked. Depending on the design of the bar will depend on if it can be straightened.