Chain Saws

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Thanks for all the help. The Husky is running pretty good. It seems to stall when I let go of the trigger so it probably needs a little fine tuning.

I'm going to start collecting parts for my old Homelite EZ. Lent it at the same time as the husky to the same neighbor who ran them with straight gas. That old homelite was a great saw. Tons of power for a 18" blade and ran like a champ. It deserves a second chance at life.
 
I took down another big tree yesterday and came accross a couple more questions involving my husqvarna 266SE. The guy I had do the rebuild on the piston and cylinder set my oiler at 1 instead of the 3-4 needed for the 28" bar he reinstalled. Fresh off the rebuild it was spraying bar oil nicely, but I think it was a little low once I got into cutting. I knew the bar and chain surfaces were worn, but on closer inspection yesterday, the chain is shot. The bar has worn evenly, but has a ridge of metel on the flats. can bars be reground? I'd love to salvage this bar and pick up a new chain.

Though I love the length of the 28" bar when I get into some bigger timber, that only happens 5% of the time. What size bar is the most common and useful for general tree felling and wood cutting? I grew up clearing land in New England with a 16" Sthil and was able to take down a lot of sizable oaks with that short bar. I'm leaning towards an 18 or 20"

Given that i'm not going pro in the lumber industry, what is the recomended brand and type of bar? Oregon or Carlton? I was on Bailey's site and thought about this combo:
https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BCC 20 HU58

The info I can find on my Husky 266SE says that it should take a Oregon 73LG chain. The 28" chain I just removed has 72 stamped on the drive links. Is there a difference between the two number? I have two back up chains that came from the PO years ago when I bought it. I've never installed them. They have A1 on the drive links? What do all the number mean and how do I confirm what I need. Thanks for the help.
 
The #72 is an Oregon 3/8" Pitch .050" Gauge Saw Chain.

Your other question;
You are asking what bar length you want to run in order to cut the size of the wood you are cutting? There is no common size that works for everybody. STIHL has a 16", 18", 20", 22", 25" and a 28" (and longer) guide bar available.
 
D'Animal said:
The #72 is an Oregon 3/8" Pitch .050" Gauge Saw Chain.

Your other question;
You are asking what bar length you want to run in order to cut the size of the wood you are cutting? There is no common size that works for everybody. STIHL has a 16", 18", 20", 22", 25" and a 28" (and longer) guide bar available.
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Sorry, after I posted and left I knew my questions were poorly worded.

Can bars be reground?

Whats the difference between the #72 that I took off the current 28" bar and the 73LG that the specs of my saw call for? Does a 73 take a different style bar or drive links? Are they interchangeable? I'll try to salvage the 28" bar and throw a new chain on it. Do I throw a 72 or 73 on it? The 28" bar does not have a name on it. Its a solid bar made in Canada. It has 3/8" stamped into it near the end of the bar. 0-380-93 and 2850 25945
FG are also stamped in it. I just want to make sure I buy the right chain for this bar.

I'll also buy a 18 or 20" bar to cover most of the cutting I do. What manufacturer and style bar do you recomend? I don't want to be purchasing the Harbor Frieght of saw parts without knowing it. Is Baileys a good source online? Any where else I should be looking? Thanks for all the advice.
 
tltaylor22 said:
Though I love the length of the 28" bar when I get into some bigger timber, that only happens 5% of the time. What size bar is the most common and useful for general tree felling and wood cutting? I grew up clearing land in New England with a 16" Sthil and was able to take down a lot of sizable oaks with that short bar. I'm leaning towards an 18 or 20"

Given that i'm not going pro in the lumber industry, what is the recomended brand and type of bar? Oregon or Carlton? I was on Bailey's site and thought about this combo:
https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BCC 20 HU58
Click to expand...
Personally, I like to use a 28" bar, because when I was cutting a lot of firewood, it would allow me to stand straight, but wouldn't get into the dirt while cutting rounds. My average tree dbh was prolly between 14 and 20".

Do you not have a saw shop locally? I only ask, because they should have everything you need and you won't have to order from Bailey's unless there's a large price diff. An Oregon bar should last you a long time, my last one was around $90 IIRC. I only bought it as a spare, just in case I got my bar pinched and had to cut it out. I always have a couple spare chains on hand, 93 drivers skip tooth for my 28" bar on my 372XP.
 
bigndn said:
Personally, I like to use a 28" bar, because when I was cutting a lot of firewood, it would allow me to stand straight, but wouldn't get into the dirt while cutting rounds. My average tree dbh was prolly between 14 and 20".

Do you not have a saw shop locally? I only ask, because they should have everything you need and you won't have to order from Bailey's unless there's a large price diff. An Oregon bar should last you a long time, my last one was around $90 IIRC. I only bought it as a spare, just in case I got my bar pinched and had to cut it out. I always have a couple spare chains on hand, 93 drivers skip tooth for my 28" bar on my 372XP.
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Thanks Chad,
I'm pretty short in stature,Genetically challenged as I like to say, so the 28" always seemed long. It also seemed a little floppy for most things. Maybe a different bar would be stiffer. This one is a solid bar but I don't know the maker. I'll bet most of the stuff I cut is int he 14-18" range so 20" would cut most of everything. I've got a couple very small saw shops locally, but their prices are through the roof. I try to support the little local guys when I can, even pay extra most times to do so, but the budget is tight right now. The only other places around are the big box guys and they don't know anything about saws.
 
Dan, what about the various chain saws that you mentioned made them NLA in the US? If a saw is bulletproof and strong, why would they be banned? Too many pollutants? Totally chain saw ignorant here.
 
I ended up ordering through Baileys. I bought a 20" Solid Carlton bar w/chain, extra 20" chisel chain and a new Chisel chain for my 28" bar. Cost me half of going to my local shop. I installed the new 20" tonight and cut a few logs. Everything cut great. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Depends on the model.

For example, the STIHL 038 weighs a few pounds more and has less power than a STIHL 044. The STIHL 044 does not meet the EPA regulation so they changed a few little things and it is now called the MS 440 and meets all of the EPA emmission requirements.

Nothing was wrong with the 038 or the 044. Newer innovations and technology made a better saw that is lighter adn has more power and burns cleaner.

Blue77FJ40 said:
Dan, what about the various chain saws that you mentioned made them NLA in the US? If a saw is bulletproof and strong, why would they be banned? Too many pollutants? Totally chain saw ignorant here.
Click to expand...
 
Dan,

I have a 029 that i bought new back in 93 that my local shop is having a hard time finding me the right parts for it. We just ordered the 3rd air filter hoping this one is the right one. Is there any way of finding a parts sheet out there that would just be for this older year model ?

Old boy is doing his job though and trying to get me to buy a new one but there is nothing wrong with this one, besides doing regular maintenance stuff. And this filter is still the one that came with it.
 
There are two air filters for the 029, 029 Super and MS 290.

The 029 uses 1127 120 1611

The 029 Super and the MS 290 uses 1127 120 1621

There is an opening/port in the back of the 1127 120 1621 air filter that connects to a boot on the carburetor.

There is an boss extending out but there is no hole in the back of the 1127 120 1611 air filter.
 
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The last one they got me had some wierd opening on the back that was above the carb.
 
The right 028 in really great shape with a newer bar and chain is well worth $250.


LCOwner said:
Dan, a club member and I are looking for a couple 028's. What's fair price on one and do you have any? A guy on CL want's $250 Stihl Chain Saw I'd be interested in trying to rebuild one myself.
Click to expand...

If it needs a bar, chain and sprocket, that is going to set you back around $85.

Some of the original 028WB have parts that are NLA such as the magnesium fuel tank.
 
Have never seen a saw like this before...
From an Arbourist site...Thought maybe someone would like a look at these..
 
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Thanks for sharing! Those are some really cool old saws.

Those are called "Bow Bars". They were very common in the 1960's and early to mid 1970's.

They were designed to cut brush and saplings. They were replaced by the common brush cutter.
 
Thanks D'Animal...I had never seen these before. I knew that you would know...

Looks like something that a guy would have to get used too...
 
How good of a feature is Stihl's Quickstop Plus in terms of safety vs their other models that don't have it? Say a MS 250 vs MS 261 C-Q?
 
Does anyone have a Stihl MS 310? I failed to take a picture when I was disassembling my MS 310 and now I am not 100% sure where all the wires should go. I already got the service manual for the 310 but it was too vague. Any help is appreciated.
 
Dan, my 010AV rebuild is coming along good, just waiting on a couple more parts. I was surprised by the condition of the bore and piston, I can't detect any wear whatsoever apart from the cross hatch being polished off, no scratches either. This saw has had a lot of use, was used by a friend of mine professionally for some years before I ended up with it and I've given it a fair workout myself over the years. Quick couple of question, manual says a 40:1 mix with Stihl oil which is what I've always used in it. Any reason why the mix is 50:1 these days with the newer saws? Improvement in the oil or motor materials? Just wondering if I can use a 50:1 mix, would mean one less fuel mix can for me. Also, manual lists max rpm at 10,000. What should I adjust it to using my tacho? Thanks.
 
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