CDN M101 - Wide Stance w/ FJ Wheel Backspacing & Getting Things Level (1 Viewer)

[greentruck]

CDN M101 - Wide Track w/ FJ Wheel Backspacing & Getting Things Level

My first post here. The wife and I joined the CDN M101 gang by purchasing an olive-drab number at a very sweet price from a PO. We'd been looking to buy one after deciding that it was the perfect base for a build-up to tag along behind our FZJ80.

In fact, one reason we're going with a trailer is that a roof rack solution -- especially with a RTT -- won't work for us without major surgery to the garage. I'd rather work on the truck and trailer.

The M101 had already been converted to take Landcruiser wheels. It currently has a set of FJ60 chrome spokes on it and a spare wheel was included. I considered this a plus, as it means one spare would cover trailer and truck.

On the other hand, I can see the drawback. The fenders just don't cover the tires. We'll be putting bigger tires on the truck soon, but I'm starting to think that maybe I should rethink the whole idea of a single spare.

I've seen the very nice rigs that have done wider fenders to accommodate wider tires. I may do that, but I'll have to figure that out as I'm not a welder (yet), as it adds a good place to stash additional gear if you place a RTT on top of the bed cover, as we plan to do.

I also wonder about bearing life, given that if does change the stance substantially from the design specs. I know that anything military is substantially overbuilt and that the trailer is rated at 500 pounds capacity cross-country so I doubt this is an issue for anyone using the M101 except on the longest expeditions. I'm curious what others think about this. It towed like a dream, so I can see how narrowing things by switching back to a stock tire gauge may affect that some.

The spec tire is a bit on the short side for those running a 33" or larger tire. We plan on a 33" tire with a 2.5" lift, because our garage won't accommodate anything taller. One reason I bring this up is that I've seen a very nice crank-up spare mod underneath the trailer. Are there tall, narrow tires that would work with the stock rims and fenders?

I'm also considering a SOA conversion to adjust the trailer for proper height behind the FZJ prime mover. What advice is there from those who've been down the road on this as far as getting things level? I've poked through lots of old threads, but not seen much specific advice.

 

[Brentbba]

PO of my CDN M101 did an SOA on both his trailer and the 2nd one he had that I purchased from him. Pasquale (the PO) did a nice job!

Great thread write ups over on Expedition Portal with pics.

Desertdude's M101 trailer grows up - Expedition Portal Forum

He did the hub swap with the SOA and has 80 series rims on it to match the cruiser. Mine came with 255/85/16's that I'd love to get rid of and replace with the same 285/75/16's I've got on the cruiser. Doing some repainting, so I haven't had it out yet offroad- only towed home from Paso Robles to the OC - couple hundred miles. She towed like a dream. I had no idea it was back there! Pasquale just extended the fenders with a piece of metal bent to the same form as the fenders and used a couple more bolts to secure it to the stock location and original fender. Not the prettiest, but very inexpensive and functional. I can take a pic or two if you'd like. Trailer is upside down in the garage as I work on the undercarriage, but just about finished and will have the manpower to carry it out of the garage, but the tires back on and flip her back over! It took four of us to turn it over and carry it into the garage! It is stoutly built!. He also extended the tongue and added a lock-n-roll coupler! Most of the major work was already done! Only thing missing from the trailer was the triangle reflectors that are next to impossible to find in the CDNM101 community.

I still need to have a lid put on. RTT is a ways away at this point unless the bonus is better than expected come June! hehehe

Expo also has a great trailer section too! Great info both here and over there.

 

[greentruck]

Brent,
Yep, I love the way the trailer towed. Some have said they get a lot of bounce, but I saw very little except on very rough patches of highway.

Interesting idea on extending the fenders by adding a piece between the fender and the body. It makes such an extension a lot simpler.

After my note last night, I started thinking more about extending the fenders as part an extension of "running boards" to carry extra gear outside the bed. I've seen some nice set-ups (swampman's and several others) that used a rod or small tube similar in size to the existing tie-downs on the front and rear. But a bigger tube -- maybe 2"? -- might work better, since making the trailer wider for bigger tires offers a greater chance of catching obstacles on the trail. Having a sturdier arrangement to deflect them could help with that.

One more excuse to learn some welding, plus I'd have to bend some tubing, too.

I've heard that something very close to the OEM triangle reflectors can be had at Harbor Freight. Fortunately, our trailer came with them.

No original lights, though. I've found in an older thread here that Grote and Trucklite both offer LED mil-spec rear lamps, but a set of those will set you back $300. I like the look, but with our budget will probably go with LED civilian lamps.

 

[Brentbba]

Found another site on the Yahoo! CDN M101 board that has the Euro style triangle reflectors for about $10. Seriously considering a tailgate, so reflectors would come off then anyway.

Pasquale had already changed out the tail lights for plain old lights. I've purchased brighter LED ones for around $50. I'd experienced fuse blowouts when towing a different trailer. Extra lights in my ARB up front, Kaymar rear and trailer lights were just to much for the fuse. LED lights on the trailer solved that problem real quickly, so doing the same with this trailer.

So far all I've done is pressure washed/blasted the entire trailer, tub and bottom and sanded away and wire wheeled what little rust there as much as possible. I've primed with plain old Rustomeum Rusty Primer in the tub (it probably isn't as good as Rust Bullet or POR-15 but a lot cheaper), the entire tongue, leaf springs, axle, etc. and undercarriage. I've finished rattle canning the undercarriage with Rustoleum Gloss black and carried that color to the lower frame on the outside (that 2" or so that runs around where the welds are). I'll wet sand or polish compound the exterior of the tub and tongue next to clean up the rattle can green that Pasquale used and then prime and paint probably with Duplicolor paints. Will have the tongue and trim on the bottom black and the trailer white to match the cruiser. I've got some Durabak left from my cruiser flare project I'll put on the fenders of the trailer, again to match the cruiser. Just used some simple Duplicolor rubberized undercoating on the underside of the fenders only. There seemed to be something like an undercoating on the trailer once I got it clean and just left that on. It's just a trail trailer after all.

Don't want to begin the white paint process until I've got a lid on it and that's probably still a month or two away.

Post up your progress! It'll be fun to watch another CDN M101 build. Sorry no pics so far of what I've done. Will take a couple of it upside down before flipping it. No pics of when the undercarriage was Rusty Primer color!

 

[american psycho]

you could post some pictures to keep this interesting....

 

[Brentbba]

you could post some pictures to keep this interesting....

Don't have any yet...but will oblige soon.

 

[greentruck]

Gotta take some "before" pics, not quite to any "after" pics yet

I kept digging and did find this inconclusive thread about the track width/fender/FJ wheel backspacing issue: https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/253490-put-new-lc-hubs-my-cdn-m101.html

The jury is still out for me. In the long run, I'm hoping to put a rear bumper w/ swingout spare on the 80, because we'll be adding a subtank (mostly) above where the spare sits now. I had a 50 gallon tank on my FJ55 and it came in handy when roaming from time to time

So I'm going to have at least one spare on the truck. If I can fit a windup spare underneath by running skinny trailer tires, I may still go that route. I can always throw an extra truck spare on the trailer if I'm paranoid about a second spare for it.

Going "skinny" on tires means less fender area for outside storage, but I've seen plenty of nicely equipped rigs here without lots of junk outside. Somehow, getting a trailer doesn't mean you need always give in to dragging everything to the wilderness with you -- just the pleasant necessities for roughing it in style

 

[Koffer]

Heres what Roberto did , I got a set from him a while ago (havent put them on yet but I will )
They are "Heavy Duty"
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - new CDN M101 fenders made and installed

 

[d0ubledown]

hey mike..

nice score on the trailer! lets see some pics...they certainly make hauling more gear easier..and lets face it. a lifted m101 behind a lifted 80 just looks bad a$$. ive done a SO on mine running matching 80 wheels with slightly smaller 295s. the 80 currently has 315's on a 4" lift. i wouldnt worry too much on the track width and fender coverage...unless where you live is very anal about tires sticking out. im in bc where some cops can be nazis about tires that stick out, but i havent had issues. the 295s on the 80 wheels stick out about 3". i could run some garden edging as a low buck solution, but no issues so far. you could source some 255/85/16s for the trailer. nice n narrow, and a 33" diameter.

imo, i wouldnt worry about a 2nd spare under the tub. if anything, a water cell with pump. i always run with a plug kit, and using enough of them can get you out of most situations. of course, it all depends on the main use of the trailer.

you can also swap the mounting point for the lunette ring. iirc, the top hole sits the ring at 23.5". with my old ome 2.5" setup, i was level on the bottom hole. now that ive got 4" springs in, i'll have to move to the top mount in order to sit level.

heres my setup. pretty basic. still not done. hopefully will get some fuel can & 10# propane tank mounts. but as it is, it works great. just what i needed to haul the family of 5 out into the bush for some camping..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/263936-got-me-m101.html

 

[Brentbba]

Sonny - thanks for the link to your build! Nice job!

Eastern Marine has a nice 20 lb propane tank strap. You'd still have to build the platform.

Trailer Parts Superstore - Adjustable Tank Mounting Bracket, 12" to 13" #TH1213

I've been looking for a couple of lockable jerry can holders. AT makes very nice ones, but at $100 apiece, they arent' cheap, but the only ones of any substance to mount the cans upright that I've found so far that aren't home fabed. Martyn makes nice stuff, so you get what you pay for! I'd love to move my two jerry cans from my roof rack to the trailer. It's part of why I got the trailer in the first place...so I could stop hoisting all my junk onto the INTI rack. Caught my wedding band on the limb riser hook last November and almost took off my finger! Had to have my wedding band of 25 years cut off at the fire station! I got lucky and a great excuse with the to get the trailer!

 

[greentruck]

Koffer,
Yes, Roberto's fenders were some of the ones I really liked -- and a real bargain. Not sure if I can strike such a deal around here, but they at least provide a picture to say "This is what I want."

d0ubledown,

With a tip of the hat to Casey, the PO, here's a pic of my plainjane M101. It's just basic OD. I plan to get the faded/rust spots dealt with, line the bed (and maybe do the same to the front of the trailer) then maybe give the poor little thing a decent camo job like its big sisters.

Yeah, I worry around here about fender coverage. Sooner or later, I'm just saying, plus I get places sometimes where they'll be flinging stuff all over the truck, so might as well get it right. Thanks for the tip on the lawn edging. If I can't work something out with metal fenders, that's a good option, although I prefer to go with metal if I can.

A water cell underneath? Brilliant! I was thinking of buying one of those $300 Aussie ones that goes in the rear 1/4 panel of the 80, but it makes more sense to get something more agricultural, cheaper, and fit it under the trailer. I'll have to do some planning, but I've got the idea now.

As for 255/85s, that's actually what I have planned to go on the truck, you've read my mind on that one. Guess I'm narrow-minded, but I like the look and I don't have plans for sand, which is the only thing you really give up by going with them.

Thanks for the link to your build thread. Exactly the info I needed. My pintle hitch is mounted to my frame, too. The SOA looks to be in my future, too, as that's the way I want things to come out, nice and level, only with the 255/85 R16s.


​

 

[Brentbba]

Wish you were closer - I'd give you a great deal on a pair of 255/85/16's!

 

[d0ubledown]

Koffer,
Yes, Roberto's fenders were some of the ones I really liked -- and a real bargain. Not sure if I can strike such a deal around here, but they at least provide a picture to say "This is what I want."

d0ubledown,

With a tip of the hat to Casey, the PO, here's a pic of my plainjane M101. It's just basic OD. I plan to get the faded/rust spots dealt with, line the bed (and maybe do the same to the front of the trailer) then maybe give the poor little thing a decent camo job like its big sisters.

Yeah, I worry around here about fender coverage. Sooner or later, I'm just saying, plus I get places sometimes where they'll be flinging stuff all over the truck, so might as well get it right. Thanks for the tip on the lawn edging. If I can't work something out with metal fenders, that's a good option, although I prefer to go with metal if I can.

A water cell underneath? Brilliant! I was thinking of buying one of those $300 Aussie ones that goes in the rear 1/4 panel of the 80, but it makes more sense to get something more agricultural, cheaper, and fit it under the trailer. I'll have to do some planning, but I've got the idea now.

As for 255/85s, that's actually what I have planned to go on the truck, you've read my mind on that one. Guess I'm narrow-minded, but I like the look and I don't have plans for sand, which is the only thing you really give up by going with them.

Thanks for the link to your build thread. Exactly the info I needed. My pintle hitch is mounted to my frame, too. The SOA looks to be in my future, too, as that's the way I want things to come out, nice and level, only with the 255/85 R16s.


​

where are you located? ive got a buddy unloading some BFG MTs in a 255.85.16...

 

[greentruck]

Brent,
Too far, sorry to say.
sonny,
sent pm, just in case.

Yep, we'll be going with the BFG 255/85 R16 on the 80. I'm still not quite ready to commit on the trailer. I may still go with a shorter, narrow tire on it to go with more of a stock look.

I'm leaning toward a SOA, but if I go there, I should go with the wider track. Lower tires, then I can go with the stock track width and fenders. I'm kind of torn on this. One option is to run the 33" tires without a SOA. It looks they may have enough clearance to run OK without it and that would certainly be advantageous.

In the long run, we want to do a RTT on the trailer. We do a lot of Colorado trails and similar places. Keeping the center of gravity low is important, which is one reason why I like the idea of a RTT on the trailer instead of on the truck. So I don't want to set up the trailer where I end up putting it in the same situation I started out trying to avoid on the truck.

 

[greentruck]

Conversion Hub Bearings Question

sonny,
I saw in the FAQ that you converted your CDN M101 to take LC pattern wheels with hubs you got from Southwest Wheels. I had one hub that ran hot coming home with it and tore into it tonight. Definitely got to have new bearings (the inner failed).

I saw that the hubs on the Southwest website take the same part numbers as listed in the Yahoo M101 group database. Do you think it's safe to assume the hubs that fit the M101 axle are all the same bearings? The hub I pulled is marked "AL-KO 8490" and "6J06" (but I suspect the latter refers to the bolt pattern.)

 

[d0ubledown]

yep, same bearings & races from southwest wheel. looks like youve already got the 6bolt drums...so maybe you can get away with just replacing the bearings & races?

 

[greentruck]

sonny,
Got my parts ordered, including the one spring for the brake that isn't in good enough shape to reuse. Everything else was there for those and with the help of the manual I was able to figure out how to put them back together. They were pretty proud of that spring, though, as it was over $7!

Strangely, the inner bearing was toast, but the race looked OK. The seal looked OK, too, but maybe some foreign matter got past it or was present during assembly and caused a problem for the bearing.

When I tried to adjust things after noticing it was hot on the trip home, it was way too loose already, so I'm not quite sure what the problem was. The parts will be here tomorrow, so once things are back together, I'll road-test it so there are no surprises down the line when it's time to hit the road for fun.

If it helps anyone else, the 3500 pound axles under these are what are called a 84 series axle.

 

[greentruck]

The bearings and brake spring arrived yesterday from Redneck Trailer Supply, as they told me. I had a pretty good idea of how things were supposed to go back together with the brake from the manual, but in the end I had to pull the other side (wheel and hub) to get a look at things.

It turned out the problem on the side I was working on was that the brake cable being rust-frozen would not let the brake lever set right, which wouldn't let me get the other parts assembled right. Easy enough to figure out once you've seen it, but the manual's diagram just wasn't quite enough to help in this case. Once I saw how it was supposed to look when it was right, I knew what was needed.

I hit the top end of the offending break cable with some penetrating oil. After working it back and forth, I got it loosened and the lever moving again in the brake assembly. Things went back together fine after that.

A test run proved I had the bearing just a little tight. Backed it off another notch and reset the cotter pin and she was running cool like the other side. The first time I run it a long distance or loaded, I'll verify that it's preload is right. I'm a little anal about this sort of stuff, because I used to be the intermediary between a dozen mechanics and 150 drivers. At least I can cooperate with myself

I put off adjusting the brakes until today. So I flipped the handle into Park. Couldn't budge it at all. So that's good, too, just needs verification next time it's hooked up to the 80 that they'll hold with something more than my puny efforts tugging at them.

Made a PVC pipe frame to keep the tarp propped up. Keeps the rain from pooling, but it also made the tarp I thought was a bit too big fit just right with the arch that the framework makes. Cost me less than $20 for the tarp and framework. Until we scrape together funds and figure who will build the hardtop, it'll do.

Finally, found a good deal on LED lighting at the local Auto Zone after having shopped around the brick-and-mortar and internet shops. I'd like to have the Grote or Trucklite military LED tail lamps, but the $140/each price buys a lot of other stuff. Maybe someday.