carb fan wire help

[lonelydriver]

Hey guys, I'm back!!! I used to have a 62, and picked up a 83 60 recently. I'm pulling out all the funky wires from the alarm, cruise control, and stereo system the previous owners installed.

I noticed the wire from the carburetor to the carb fan had been hacked up and was hoping someone could clarify what should be the normal wiring.

This is a picture of where the wires connect to the carb,

you can see the yellow and green wire.



And this is where it's been hacked up..

the yellow wires been untouched.

the green wires been spliced with a white wire that is grounded to the chassis,

and the 3rd wire that has the red wire connector is just dangling.

If I GROUND that red 3rd wire, the carb fan will start running


Any idea how it should normally be?

thanks in advance and heres a pic of the rig,

It's a 83, with recently rebuilt engine, tranny, transfer case
no rust

 

[teejnut]

Finally back in a real land cruiser

 

[scott84]

Nice crusier it looks like new, but i have no idea about the the wiring though. GOOD LUCK

 

[crackdpot]

I had a problem with mine burning off at the manifold temp. sensor. Finally got some "range" wire made for high temp. and it seems to be fine.....I know someone on here had mentioned hooking up a manual switch for the fan.....have you looked for an underdash switch someplace? Without looking at mine, I can't tell you the correct wiring.....I don't seem to remember a red wire. Check for a switch.

 

[2mbb]

The wiring that goes to the carburetor (green connector) is for the decelleration fuel cut valve. One wire comes from the battery via the ignition switch, the other goes to the emissions computer. Normally the valve should be open/on. The emissions computer closes the valve when the truck is decellerating, to prevent back firing. If this system isn't working and the valve is not open at idle, then the truck will not idle. The PO probably interrupted and grounded the wire going to the emissions computer to keep the valve on/open all the time.

The carb fan has two wires going to it. One comes from the cooling fan relay no. 1 (blue w/ red stripeP and the second goes to ground (white with black stripe). This electrical circuit has another timer relay and a temperature sensor. When the exhaust manifold is hot enough, the fan turns on when the ignition is turned off and runs either until the manifold cools down or for a set time.

 

[crackdpot]

Hmmmm, sorry, I didn't read your post thoroughly enough.
Looks like the wire with the red connector might be the sensor wire.
Sensor is kinda' back under the carbeurator and the exhaust manifold. When mine burned off, I found it "just dangling" also.

Reaching in from the drivers side of the hood, you can reach it. Kinda' have to squinch down to see it. Sensor has a small threaded stud onto which the connector slides and a small nut to secure it.

I'd suggest going to appliance parts store and get high temp. insulated wire and high temp connector.

When sensor is working, high temp. "throws the switch" and effectively grounds that wire and turns on the fan.

 

[lonelydriver]

This is why Mud rocks.. I missed u guys

 

[lonelydriver]

The wiring that goes to the carburetor (green connector) is for the decelleration fuel cut valve. One wire comes from the battery via the ignition switch, the other goes to the emissions computer. Normally the valve should be open/on. The emissions computer closes the valve when the truck is decellerating, to prevent back firing. If this system isn't working and the valve is not open at idle, then the truck will not idle. The PO probably interrupted and grounded the wire going to the emissions computer to keep the valve on/open all the time.

Is grounding the wire going to the emissions computer that keeps the valve open all the time an acceptable alternative? or should I try to fix this?

I need to get the truck smogged this week, so I want to make sure any emmisions related stuff is upto spec since I live in Kalifornia

 

[2mbb]

According to the table able, the decelleration fuel cut switch only turns off (cuts fuel) when there is high vacuum (throttle plate closed) and the RPM is above 1800. This only happens when decellerating. The California smog tests I am subjected to seems to be done at a constant speed--a dyno test at two different RPM's. I don't think the decelleration circuit comes into play during the CA test. However, if the grounding of this switch is because the emissions computer is bad, you might still have problems passing the test. However, I think most times the switch is grounded because the wire to the computer breaks and owners don't want to replace that wire. But this is just an impression I get from reading posts....

 

[Spike Strip]

And the blue wire connected to the red should be grounded... You want that cooling fan to work. Don't worry about the sensor it normally goes to, better to have it working - always - when you turn off the engine.

Only problem is it can kind of be annoying when you just turn the ign on for a sec - then the fan goes on (20-30 min). But easily remedied when a simple toggle switch between the ground.

 

[lonelydriver]

Thanks guys passed smog today with flying colors

And the blue wire connected to the red should be grounded... You want that cooling fan to work. Don't worry about the sensor it normally goes to, better to have it working - always - when you turn off the engine.

Only problem is it can kind of be annoying when you just turn the ign on for a sec - then the fan goes on (20-30 min). But easily remedied when a simple toggle switch between the ground.

So I couldn't find the temperature sensor that sets off the carb fan last night.

So you're saying if I ground it instead of connecting it to the temp sensor, it will stop running after a set time automatically?

 

[Spike Strip]

Thanks guys passed smog today with flying colors



So I couldn't find the temperature sensor that sets off the carb fan last night.

So you're saying if I ground it instead of connecting it to the temp sensor, it will stop running after a set time automatically?

Yes. There's an Electronic timer under the dash - Just ground the wire (red attached to the blue) and you'll be good. Install a toggle switch, if you want, to turn off the fan if the engine isn't hot.

I've found a lot of these sensors at the manifold to be bad, and they're expensive to replace.

Gongrats on passing smog - a feat in itself.

Where in CA are you?

 

[lonelydriver]

Sweet, that makes it easy

I'm in Glendale, but frequent burbank often

 

[2mbb]

The sensor is mounted to a bracket extending below the pipe that connects the PCV hose into the intake manifold (below the carburetor). One pipe is for PCV, the other for EGR. The bracked is welded to the PCV pipe. The thermosensor just has one wire attached to it. It grounds through the sensor body to the engine ground.

 

[Spike Strip]

Cool - There's a bunch of us in the Valley - check out:

LA County Trail Crew

We meet for lunch a couple times a month - bring the crusier.

 

[JLH911]

Sweet, that makes it easy

I'm in Glendale, but frequent burbank often

Glendale!? I Grew up there. You should come up to the Trail Crew meeting tomorrow in Sunland.

 

[lonelydriver]

Thanks for the invite guys,

Can't make it tomorrow, but will check it out when I get the chance. Sundland's really close