Can't pass smog?

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Joined
Mar 1, 2005
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All,

I've been looking at a 60 that runs well, but has been said to not pass smog. I'm wondering what's the worst that can be wrong? Bacically, I'm looking to get this for a good price and it's not in my town, so taking it to a mechanic and having them diagnose the problem is out of the question. Let me know what you all think.
 
What state are you in. If in CA, and you buy an out of state vehicle, you must make it smog-able or sell it out of state. Also in CA seller is required to provide a smog cert. I'd guess you could spend a couple of grand if you had a mechanic replace the carb, the exhaust maifold, find all the smog crap and reconnect it.
 
It cost me almost 1K to diagnose and fix the problem with mine. The actual cost to fix was about $200. Did you get a print out so you know what's not passing?

From what I've read the most common problems in TLC is the O2 sensors, if they've not been working for some time it can lead to the cats failing too.

As long as all the smog equipment is in tact it should be fairly straight foward to fix...finding the problem is usually the issue.
 
The truck is in CA and the seller hasen't diagnosed the problem. I think that's part wy they are letting it go for such a good price. What I'm trying to find out is if I need to pay $XXX to get it to pass I must add it to that "good sale price. Also, to throw in a new twist, I will be moving to Cocorado very shortly and don't now what there smog laws are. My inclination is to leave all the equipment intact and making it run as it should.
 
i thought i read that 60's dont have o2 sensors?
 
I've had two Smog pumps go on me and they caused the same things to happen. After almost 1500 dollars in part and mechanic bills I just bought a longer belt and bypassed the pump altogether. It may not be regulation but it runs great and passes inspection in NC!
 
If you're moving to the Colorado front range, the smog testing is tight. I believe its the RM240 dyno test. You will not pass unless all the smog gear is functional and the engine is running properly. If you're up to diagnosing and fixing the problem yourself, its not TOO bad and somewhat educational. If you have to take it to a professional mechanic, it can be quite expensive. You might be able to get quite a deal because its currently failing the test. It might be something simple, (I've seen It.) Or it might need a new cat, air pump, ABV and air rail, carb rebuild, and some other $60 assorted bits. Good luck.
 
How many miles are on the engine? I would do a compression test before you buy it. If the compression sucks then I would forget buying it. It is the law in California for the seller to provide a smog cert. You both can look the other way and you can buy it from him and fix it yourself. You are suppose to register it like 15 days after you buy it so that does not give you much time to fix it. I would ask him to check something out yourself before you buy it.

1. check compression 150 psi is good
2. get a picture of the smog hardware and check that it is all there.
3. Undo the inlet of the smog pump at the air cleaner and make sure it is sucking...
4.Undo the hose above the PCV valve and make sure it has vacuum.

If this stuff looks good..Then tell him how hard is to get these smogged and get him down to the lowest price.Not many people are going to buy it from him when he will not provide a smog like that so he should give you a deal.

I am rebuilding my engine now after not being able to pass smog and then my engine went out. Where are you in California? You in the bay area?
 
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Actually, I'm down south. I agree about the compression and was going to have him do it (actually its a used car dealer). I inquired about his flexibility of his asking price and he replied that his boss had seen these trucks go for 12-15K. I promptly laughed and said good luck.
He returned a little later and lowered his price, but still not enough. I am wary of the purchase because I had an expensive smog problem with my old 83, but the frame is straight, interior is fairly clean, and no rust, so I've been thinking about it more. Thanks for the input. Any diagram for the smog pump or an approximate location?
 
A dealer is selling it? I would think he could get fined selling a car without getting it smogged.I would stay away from a used car dealer. Just be patient or look up north here too and you can find a clean 60 from a individual seller. The smog pump is located right under the powersteering pump on the drivers side.

If you really like it go up there with a compression guage and do yourself and if it is good offer him $2500.
 
There should be an emissions diagram on the drivers side fender under the hood. The smog pump is located underneath the power steering pump. If the steering pump is leaking, it could cause the smog pump to fail. My 1985 was declared a "gross polluter" the time before last. I went to the local dealer and they were unprepared for my "obsolete vehicle" (thier words). I had to loan them my manuals and even then they couldn't figure it out. In the end I did the usual tune up/valve adjustment stuff and repalced the smog pump with one from Napa (~$125) and the catalytic convertor with one from an internet vendor (~$150). It passed and passed again two years later.

With a new-to-you truck you should also get the emissions manual and do all the checks and replace all the vacuum tubing (I recommmend you use silicone, since it will last for years).

You can check a vehicles smog test history in CA with a license plate or VIN here . It doesn't tell you the results, but does tell you when and where the last test was done and whether the vechicle passed or failed.

Good Luck.
 
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