Can’t find the right lug nuts for a 2004 lx470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 12, 2019
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Surrounded by tourist and potholes, CO
Hello,
I’ll try to keep this to quick and to the point. Recently I lost a lug nut, just got the truck a couple months ago and didn’t think to check the lugs, sure enough the fronts were quite loose.

This seems ridiculous but I’m having a very difficult time finding the right lug for the stock 04 rims. I’ve now stumped car quest, Napa, Lexus and Toyota. All of which have suggested a lug that doesn’t fit. Mine is a 21mm head with a 14x1.5 threading. They’ve all shown that I should be using a 22mm hex head with 14x1.5 thread. The problem is the conical seat(I think, basically the lug/stud centric base)on that lug is too big, so it threads on about half way and then binds in the wheel. I’m at a loss, I’ve search the forum and google for this issue and haven’t found anything.

Thanks for any input, I’ve lurked here for years and finally got a cruiser, didn’t expect my first post to be trying to find a lug nut but here I am.
 
@medtro is right! OEM lug nuts are mag-type hex nuts with flat seat, though I think they’re generally referred to simply as mag nuts. Sounds like you’re either searching for the wrong lug nut or don’t have OEM wheels.
 
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Ok, so my terminology was wrong, they are the “flanged” lugs with the washer, mag nuts, good to know. They are most certainly the stock wheels though, Lexus 18s with the split 5 spoke design.

The guy at Toyota searched my vin. With that it still was saying the 22mm head which didn’t fit.

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To expand on @medtro's post above, OEM nuts are 2 pc. parts...the threaded nut itself, and a washer under the nut that bears on the wheel. Do NOT judge by hex size...e.g., I've got black mag-nuts on the Land Cruiser that take a 19mm socket, the chrome oem versions take a 22mm iirc.

The one piece nuts with a cone shaped base are for steel wheels. Nut torque is VERY different between the 2 types...mag nuts need 98 ft.-lb., steel wheel nuts need 148 ft.-lb.
 
To expand on @medtro's post above, OEM nuts are 2 pc. parts...the threaded nut itself, and a washer under the nut that bears on the wheel. Do NOT judge by hex size...e.g., I've got black mag-nuts on the Land Cruiser that take a 19mm socket, the chrome oem versions take a 22mm iirc.

The one piece nuts with a cone shaped base are for steel wheels. Nut torque is VERY different between the 2 types...mag nuts need 98 ft.-lb., steel wheel nuts need 148 ft.-lb.
Thanks, so the confusing thing has been that the 22mm I’ve tried have a bigger diameter “base” (?) the part of the lug that’s below the washer and seats in the rim. I’ve tested those and after threading them about half way they begin to bind in the rim and won’t go any further, they are also visibly bigger and measure a few millimeters bigger than what’s on the truck.
 
Does it fit without using your lug nut wrench? Is the lug nut head too big or your lug nut wrench too big?
It only threads about half way without a wrench and then binds up in the “socket” on the rim. The flange above the washer also contacts the center cap much more than the lugs on the truck do. Truck didn’t have a lug wrench when I got it so I’m using a 21mm socket on a breaker bar.
 
It only threads about half way without a wrench and then binds up in the “socket” on the rim. The flange above the washer also contacts the center cap much more than the lugs on the truck do. Truck didn’t have a lug wrench when I got it so I’m using a 21mm socket on a breaker bar.

Did you remove the center cap? Try with a thin wall socket.
 
It only threads about half way without a wrench and then binds up in the “socket” on the rim. The flange above the washer also contacts the center cap much more than the lugs on the truck do
Pop the center cap off when putting the nuts on. Also, surefire test is to pull the wheel off the truck and then test the nuts in the lug holes of the wheel. If they go through and the washer sits flat against the face, then the OEM nuts that match your VIN aren’t the problem. Have you tried the same nuts on multiple lugs at multiple wheels? Have the lugs ever been replaced? If so, is it possible that the wrong lugs were put in?
 
Did you remove the center cap? Try with a thin wall socket.
I didn’t try it with them off but I did get the flange past the the cap with hand tightening. From what I was experiencing it wasn’t the socket getting in the way. Basically I can only hand tighten it onto half the stud before it doesn’t want to go any further with or without a wrench. Where as the other nuts thread all the way in by hand.
 
Pop the center cap off when putting the nuts on. Also, surefire test is to pull the wheel off the truck and then test the nuts in the lug holes of the wheel. If they go through and the washer sits flat against the face, then the OEM nuts that match your VIN aren’t the problem. Have you tried the same nuts on multiple lugs at multiple wheels? Have the lugs ever been replaced? If so, is it possible that the wrong lugs were put in?
Did you remove the center cap? Try with a thin wall socket.
also just to clarify, when I said “socket on the rim” I meant the hole/socket in the rim that the nut seats into, not the socket on the wrench binding on the rims. The wall of the socket I’m using doesn’t contact the wheel at all.
 
Pop the center cap off when putting the nuts on. Also, surefire test is to pull the wheel off the truck and then test the nuts in the lug holes of the wheel. If they go through and the washer sits flat against the face, then the OEM nuts that match your VIN aren’t the problem. Have you tried the same nuts on multiple lugs at multiple wheels? Have the lugs ever been replaced? If so, is it possible that the wrong lugs were put in?
I have tried them on different wheels with the same results can’t hand tighten beyond half way and after that it gets extremely tight. I’ve yet to pull the wheel but with what I experienced with the hand tightening I don’t think it will sit in there all the way. Worth a try though.
 

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