1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Cant find the caster washer mod link. Any pictures?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by lyrikz, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    I have searched and searched but never found pictures of people doing the washer mod for the caster correction on the 80's. Anyone have any pics they can throw up?
     
  2. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    Anyone???
     
  3. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    There was a good writeup on the "80's cool" site, but is gone. It's simple, move the holes where you want them and tack on washers to reinforce, make future assembly easier. What I like about it is that you can move the holes, test drive, possibly move/tweak again, then tack once your happy with the result.
     
  4. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    Theres two holes though.. Do you do washers on both front and rear. Do you lower the rear mounting also... SOMEONE has to have a pic. ahah
     
  5. Wrench

    Wrench One Bashed Up 80

    Messages:
    4,577
    Likes Received:
    300
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    I say why bother? To save money? Just buy caster plates. They are cheap and work.
     
  6. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    $149 bucks for those plates.... If this mod works, i would put that money elsewhere...

    I just cant believe i cant find a picture. lol.
     
  7. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    Depending on the correction needed, one or both sets of holes can be moved, I prefer both. The rear side holes move up on the bracket, the front side holes move down on the bracket.

    I usually move the rear holes first. Remove the rear side bolts, insert a spacer (wood, metal, whatever is handy) between the top of the arm and bracket, use a big c-clamp to pull the arm down until it contacts the spacers evenly on both arms. Grind/drill/move the holes to match the bushing hole. Insert bolts/washers and snug tight.

    On the front, .5" bolts make great "jacks". Remove the front side arm bolts, jack until even on both sides and where you want it, move the holes, insert bolts/washers, torque all to spec and test drive. You can drive pretty much forever, so do some high speed, if you want get a caster sweep, when happy with it, tack the washers in place.

    There are some pretty slick adjustable caster mods posted here, but I don't see the point? You can only go so far with stock arms and most need all they can get. the washer mod is reversible/adjustable, cut the washers off and tack them where needed.:hillbilly:

    Pic of the "bolt jack".
    arms_1.jpg
     
  8. Wrench

    Wrench One Bashed Up 80

    Messages:
    4,577
    Likes Received:
    300
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Time is money. And you still don't know if it will work. Caster plates take all the guess work out.
     
  9. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    It works and is well proven. With the stock arms, no matter what method you use, you can only go so far without contacting arm to tie rod, so in the end all methods net the same result.

    If your not equipped, (grinder, drill, welder, etc) this isn't the job for you. But it takes about the same tools and amount of work as the plates, but the cost is 4 fender washers.:hillbilly:
     
  10. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    Nice nice. Ok, i got it. You have a finished pic? Im going with a 4" lift so this should do the trick... Thanks.
     
  11. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    I have a plasma cutter and all that other neat stuff.. Im equipped, just not mentally yet. ahaha..
     
  12. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    A pic of IIRC Ali's adjustable setup.
    caster plate with caption.JPG
     
  13. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

    Messages:
    18,775
    Likes Received:
    903
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Groveland MA
    I'll only add that with my plates I use a 5/8" flange bolt 3 1/2" long with a self locking flange nut. I found with the plates the stock bolts weren't long enough for my comfort. Just adding it as if you want longer bolts these would work great and be cheaper than trying to find 16mm class 10 bolts.
     
  14. lyrikz

    lyrikz

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    alright. Looks good... Just needed to get a pic so i can see what im doing...

    Need to order up my springs now.
     
  15. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    I looked and ether didn’t shoot pix or didn’t save them, so made a poor attempt at photochoppin! :hillbilly:

    I have never used washers, just cut and drilled strap, thin stuff works best, about 1-1/2x1/8” or slightly thinner. In the photochops the black is the strap, red the hole and green the welds, about 1/2” long each.
    caster_washer_1.jpg caster_washer_2.jpg
     
  16. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    A couple of important design notes:

    When the front axle is flexed, one arm droops and one compresses, because of the 4 bushings, this attempts to twist the axle, it cant, so the bushings are crushed vertically. If you look at the bushing pic, it’s fully flexed and the bushing is crushed. When at rest the arm has much more clearance to the bracket. It isn’t a problem on the front bushing (pictured), but is on the rear bushing. If you move the rear side hole up too far, the arm will hit the bracket, reducing flex and putting big loads on the bracket. The bracket becomes the flex limiter, so if you want full flex the rear hole can not be moved as much as the front.

    Look at the above pic with the protractor, the arm is very close to the tie rod. This measurement is not static, it changes with flex. If the axle is rolled back too far, the arm will contact the tie rod when flexed, possibly hard enough to flex the rod, putting big loads on the tie rod ends, etc.

    IMHO the best plan is to install the lift and measure the tie rod to arm clearance on level ground. Then fully flex the front, measure tie rod to arm clearance and the arm to bracket over the rear bushing clearance on the drooped side.

    Lets say the top of the rear bushing boss on the arm to bracket measurement when flexed is 1/4”, this is how thick of a shim you need. Remove the rear bushing bolts, insert shims, pull the axle down until the shims are tight, this is where you want the rear holes. Move the holes and bolt in place.

    Now move to the front bushings, remove the bolts and roll the axle back. Lets say the arm to tie rod measurement was 5/8” when level and the closest, when flexed was 1/2”, the difference is 1/8”, this is the clearance you will want. Move the axle to that measurement at the tie rod, make sure both are moved the same amount, move the hole, bolt it together and test drive, flex, when your happy weld it up.
    bush_2.jpg
     
    GW Nugget likes this.
  17. Ozdunc

    Ozdunc

    Messages:
    241
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Location:
    Sydney, Oz
  18. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

    Messages:
    21,026
    Likes Received:
    2,377
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
  19. nikolatesla

    nikolatesla

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    Western Australia
    I just completed a 2" lift .
    She was doing the billy cart dance and unstable.
    This thread was most useful in fixing the problem.
    What I noticed was that if you take out the front bolts, then losen the back bolts (on a level surface) the suspension forces the diff to be parrellel with the body (springs straight, maximum lift) . I just elongated the front bolt holes( drill and cutting bit) to match the position that the removed front bolt indicated and replaced the bolts .......whalla she drives like on rails now.The job took 2 ugly hours. in my case it was about 3/4 of a hole.
    I will now just put some washers on and weld them in place .

    Simple, effective, and even if you cant weld , you can drive it to a shop and will be a cheap job to have the weld done . Just make sure its all bare metal so the weld will take easy.

    If you buy castor plates or bushes you are stuck with some complicated stuff unless you are lucky enought to have it sit right..

    My son bought a kit with plates and he has a world of issues with too much castor , drive vibes , and all that was need was to let the vehicle find its own ideal (springs parrallel)position .