Canister Block Heater Opinions?

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Hey All,

I have the opportunity to buy a 1500W canister heater for my 2B engine. They recommend installing it below the lowest point of the water jacket, specifically with input coming from the Block drain plug below the EDIC.

My questions are as follows:

1) Anyone use this Big/Type of a heater?
2) Where do I plumb the hot output? They recommend putting it into the return hose... I would like to have it circulate through the heater cores in the truck as well as the block... Any advice?
3) How do you Burp a system? I have read previous threads, but no one ever tals about the actual burping process...

Thanks!

K

 

[JohnnyC]

I use a zerostart...i have had it for 10 years...never faled me yet...as seen here : http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...0101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=engine+heater

i mounted mine inside the cab and sends it to thru the return line into the engine. i normally put it on 1 hr before i need to start my 40. over night sucks way too much electric.

 

[83bj60]

Hey All,

I have the opportunity to buy a 1500W canister heater for my 2B engine. They recommend installing it below the lowest point of the water jacket, specifically with input coming from the Block drain plug below the EDIC.

My questions are as follows:

1) Anyone use this Big/Type of a heater?
2) Where do I plumb the hot output? They recommend putting it into the return hose... I would like to have it circulate through the heater cores in the truck as well as the block... Any advice?
3) How do you Burp a system? I have read previous threads, but no one ever tals about the actual burping process...

Thanks!

K

I used one in one of my first vehicles, the diminutive Renault 5, which was othewise very hard to start in winter. This thing had so much output, after a short while It'd melt the snow off the hood

I am in the process of figuring out how to install it on my 'new' HDJ81, and will report on it later. Apparently not many are using this type of heater. I got the one that looks like a bottle, not the rectangular type. The one I had on the Renault was shaped as a bottle as well and worked perfectl well.

For circulating through the heater, you will necessarily have to leave the heater on, otherwise it won't circulate at all and could cook your antifreeze and destroy itself. That's the danger. On my HDJ81, there is an electric heater control so this would seem to be a no-no, as it is controlled by a thermostat and not directly actuated by a lever in the cab. The alternative would be to install it on its own circuit (in parallel with the heater) but I think having it in parallel with the heater may interefere with the performance of the heater while driving. I can't remember how I installed it on the old Renault.

As for 'burping' as long as it's vertically installed the air will not be trapped in it, so don't worry about the element frying.

Sorry of not being much help for your specifics. . I'll be looking into mine closer tomorrow morning. If OTOH you do find out how to install it yourself, let us know

Thanks for the inspiration

Chris

 

[brownbear]

you guys don't like a simple lower rad hose heater? Way simpler to install.

 

[83bj60]

you guys don't like a simple lower rad hose heater? Way simpler to install.

Yes, if I could get one

I mean, I went to Crappy Tire and they only had these very inefficient looking aluminum casting rad hose heaters, I don't like the design at all. I would much prefer having one with an actual element immersed, it seems that it would provide much better heat transfer. The new type has its element embedded into in an aluminum casting that seems quite lossy and to have a large surface area to the outside air and only a little area in contact with the coolant.

But I'll be entertaining smarter, more enlightnened technical explanations as to why they would be better than the old type I like so much.

Chris

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Open Hetaer Cores.

I'm installing it into a 1981 BJ44 with a mechanical heater valve so that should not be an issue. I think the rear is mechanical as well (with the little slider in the rear of the center console) so I should be able to keep the entire system open...

I would love to have an inline, but they are hard to find here in Colorado. Everyone seems to use a tank or freeze plug style.

I have a few more follow up questions...

Will it heat the engine enough if I put the outlet before the heater so the coolant will flow through the cab of the truck beofre getting into the engine? Will this affect the heater's efficiency when driving?

The instructions say I have to plumb the outlet into the heater hose below the highest spot in the water jacket... has anyone done this and what were the results? The only real place I can plumb the hot side is into the hose coming out of the head to the heater valve...

If I want to change my hoses out and really clean out my cooling system while I have the system empty, what is the best way to do this?

Thanks!

Kraig

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Oh, one more thing... Anyone know the threading on the block drain plug? My kit came with what I assume is SAE...

K

 

[brownbear]

Yes, if I could get one

I mean, I went to Crappy Tire and they only had these very inefficient looking aluminum casting rad hose heaters, I don't like the design at all. I would much prefer having one with an actual element immersed, it seems that it would provide much better heat transfer. The new type has its element embedded into in an aluminum casting that seems quite lossy and to have a large surface area to the outside air and only a little area in contact with the coolant.

But I'll be entertaining smarter, more enlightnened technical explanations as to why they would be better than the old type I like so much.

Chris

I have a new rad hose coming in this week at Toyota. I will stop by C-tire and look at the hose heater. As I want one in when I use a new hose. So I'll let you know what I think of them...