can roof rack carry the weight?

[layneo]

I have a 97 LC with a factory installed roof rack (I know, I know, that I should get rid of it, but I do like it!). Went to purchase a Yakima Loadwarrior basket rack and was told that it was not safe to connect directly to the factory rack--the original Toyota LC rack or roof could not hold over 100 lbs! I was told that Yakima recommended first using rack towers attached to the raingutters (not attached to the original rack), attach new cross bars, then attach the Loadwarrior to these new cross bars. Sounds like too much to me!

It was also interesting that a 97 4Runner can have the Loadwarrior attached directly to a factory rack!

Are there any differences in the racks or roofs between LC and 4Runner? Also, anyone have experience with the Yakima system (especially a basket or Rocketbox) attaching directly to a Toyota rack. Was also told that Thule has the same recommendations.

Appreciate any info.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

This doesn't surprise me at all. The factory rack - almost any factory rack - is secured to thin sheet metal. If you put on some serious weight and then wind load it at 65mph you would probably pull it off the roof.

I have thule racks and a box...attached to the gutters...vey secure

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

Only a guess, but I have Yakima rack that I pulled off of my 97 and 00 4Runner....

Yesterday while checking out an 80 I noticed the 'runners" on it are independent strips that run parallel with the main outboard ones..... All are separate strips.

On the 4Runner, the strips are perpendicular and connect to the side rails. I do not think the load capacity is that much more, but maybe since it ties all together, it can carry slightly more weight.

 

[e9999]

after seeing how my rack was attached to the roof, I'm amazed it did not pull out when driving around with a load...
100 lbs does not seem overconservative to me!

 

[turbocruiser]

About the only thing I would want to carry there is my hi-lift. I have a super simple and super slick hi-lift mount from Slee that gets the jack out of my way and keeps it out of my way. The rack seems to have no trouble holding the thing even at high speeds on curvy washboard roads, otherwise, any load of lumber or plywood or anything with large surface area should be strapped to a trailer, IMO. HTH

 

[White Shark]

I run 1200 lbs.+ on a regular basis on my Kaymar Tradesman raingutter mounted rack. My friend runs 2000 lbs.+ on his 91. He carries biodegradable dyes and supplies on top with a full load of grad students inside, to set up environmental art projects on the Utah Salt Flats. The stuff biodegrades in less than a day and the area is returned to normal. www.jeanpaulbourdier.com
You just have to keep an eye on the c-pillars for potential cracking.
Yakima and Thules are nice, but serious weight should go on a ARB, Kaymar, or Hannibal rack.

 

[wileetoyote]

Sorry, no real help here either. I run a con-fer rack across Thule bars on the LC. I attached the little 6" rain gutters (Thule/yakima accessory) to the shell of my '89 4Rnr so that I only have to slide the brackets inwards and use the same rack on both vehicles. I've carried loads of several hundred pounds when I used to 'rough it' in the wilderness. now I tow a camper with AC/heat,toilet, etc. so I find I don't use the rack as much these days. I suppose if ur gutsy enough, you could do something similar on a newer 4Rnr through the sheetmetal

btw- call me a simpleton, but the chick on the cover of 'The Fourth Dimension' looks hot . Is she in the film WS?


WET

 

[Hltoppr]

Don't put the load warrior on the factory rack.

IIRC the OEM racks are rated at approx. 150 lbs evenly distributed, and are basically urban crap.

Four Yakima A towers with load bars are rated at 165 lbs. dynamic load (moving at 70mph.) They'll hold much more static (not moving) and the 165 lbs. is a conservative rating.

I've used 8 A Towers with Four 78" crossbars for a rooftop tent/awning and two kayaks (approx. 300 lbs.) with no problems.

-H-

 

[snowcruiser]

Forget about the factory rack. After seeing how it is attached I'd be hesistent to put anything over $50 pounds up there for anything but a snail's pace...normal driving speeds....no way! I had an ARB for a while and that thing could hold about anything. Had four adults sit on it at events and hauled several hundred pounds of steel no problem....a little top heavy but no prob. I sold my ARB as I grew sick of the wind noise and lack of being able to open my sunroof. Now I run four thule crossbars on eight 5" tall raingutter mounts and am more or less satisfied with the load limits. I've had several hundred pounds of steel on this and it works but is not as secure as the ARB. I don't see the real purpose of spending the dough on a load warrior or Thule's version. I'd go with four crossbars instead to spread any weight out over a greater length of the rain gutters and it also give you the versatility to carry a ton of sport's rack style attachments or to add a floor to sleep on as needed. If you really want a basket check out surco to put on top of Thule or Yakima crossbars. Also ebay has some great bargains on complete racks if you are willing to spend the time. I got a tremendous deal on my second set of crossbars and sold the other shiat that came with it for the same money. Good luck

 

[Cruiserhead05]

I've got the factory roof rack and i am currentyl running the yakima basket as well. All i have put in the basket is the spare tire...i love the setup but the stock roof rack has gotten kinda noisy like this, i think the feet of the stock rack are rubbing on the roof...i've been thinking of getting gutter mounted towers and do it that way, would i need to remove the stock roof rack? would it look totally stupid with two rack systems on the truck? was just going to leave it b.c. i didnt want to expose the holes and whatnot.

 

[snowcruiser]

You don't need to remove the stock rack to run gutter mounts but you should really consider removing the stock rack anyway just as a preventative measure if nothing else. I couldn't believe how they rack was attached to the sheet metal...you'll see what I mean.

 

[NorCalDoug]

Like everyone else said...forget attaching anything to the factory rack.

I have the MegaWarrior (for now) on my rig. I opted for 3 bars attached to the rain gutters. Raingutter mounts are the way to go. I opted for 3 because I also have the extension for the megawarrior. I looked at the load warrior and found it to be a bit on the small side. Go larger if you can -- and definitely attach to the rain gutters.

 

[dclee]

I've got the Kaymar/Tradesman full-length oval tube, no mesh floor. Just put some marine-grade plywood up there if needed. I've slept up there often with plenty of gear as well (just in case I need something in the middle of the night). I have a little two-man pop-up tent that fits up there perfectly, full length (not half-on-half-off like a typical rooftop tent). I remember on the first 80Con trip Pat Takash had rigged up a little receptacle and hose that hung out the side of his Hannibal, so he could take a leak in the middle of the night without having to climb down the ladder. I plan to incorporate that idea soon.

Anyway, the thing is built like a tank, and is probably a bit lighter (and certainly less expensive) than the ARB. Looks better too! Whatever you get, make sure it has gutter rails that fit inside the rain gutter and run full-length. The rack mount feet slip inside of this rail, then clamp over the outside of the rain gutter. This rail helps spread the load of the rack out over the entire length of the rain gutters, rather than handling the weight just at the points where the feet mount. Oh, one other advantage of the Tradesman is that it uses four, instead of three, feet per side.