If a person modified the rotary switch so the voltage path wasn't sequential would the ECU lock either the front or the rear independently?
Anyone done this?
Anyone done this?
Can E-Locker ECU lock Front Only? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chris Wilcox
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I'd say anything is possible... Maybe install individual rocker switches?
Don't believe so. The logic is in the locker ecu IIRC. Paging @ThreeEyedBandit
With that said I have a aussie locker in the rear, factory e-locker and ecu for the front and the magic dial locks up the front just fine without anything plugged into the rear.
With that said I have a aussie locker in the rear, factory e-locker and ecu for the front and the magic dial locks up the front just fine without anything plugged into the rear.
- Thread starter
- #4
That at least confirms the ECU doesn't require the rear confirmation to lock the front.
Here is the thread where this was discussed.
Hacking the magic dial to engage only the front locker
Hacking the magic dial to engage only the front locker
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for that. I recall reading it and searched and searched but couldn't remember the key words.
If I dial mine from full-off to F&R locked positions, it's not uncommon for the front to lock up 1st, further confirming the rear being actually locked is not a requirement for the front locker to function.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm going to attempt to use an ECU in my 40 series. I have a rear 80 e-locker in both the front and rear axles of my 40 and I want to use two rocker switches and the 80 ECU. People tell me there are times in our trails here where front only is very useful.
Yes I could build my own circuit using relays but I kind of want the flashing light which I could use a 555 timer for but I also don't want the extra build project.
Yes I could build my own circuit using relays but I kind of want the flashing light which I could use a 555 timer for but I also don't want the extra build project.
FWIW @ThreeEyedBandit was going to do just that (rocker switch) but we found a locker ecu sitting around and already had all the wiring harness sitting in the truck so went that route.
Correct, but the locker ecu will not try and lock the front without trying to lock the rear at the same time. I.e. you cant 'tell' the dlcm to lock the front with out 'telling' it to lock the rear at the same time.
Input from switch -> action
RR -> Try locking rear
FR & RR -> Attempts to lock front and rear(does not care which locks first or what locks)
FR -> Trys to lock neither.
Input from switch -> action
RR -> Try locking rear
FR & RR -> Attempts to lock front and rear(does not care which locks first or what locks)
FR -> Trys to lock neither.
Don't waste your time trying the 80 unit. It will NOT allow you to lock the front without trying to lock the rear at the same time. You could put a switch inline the rear diff lock motor wires to kill the power so it wont move, but then you'll need to remember what 'state' it is in if you want it to lock. Another complicating matter to that is the computer has a time out timer, if it doesn't get a 'motor has moved' switch input back from the diff it will kill the power to the motor til you unlock and retry...
Build your own circuit, it is easy. It is very useful to be able to lock one end independently of the other, which the factory computer will not let you do.
Build your own circuit, it is easy. It is very useful to be able to lock one end independently of the other, which the factory computer will not let you do.
- Thread starter
- #12
You probably just saved me $100 plus shipping and the hassle. I wondered why the ECU had feedback from the locker position switch and had not thought of a timer cutout. This would explain on my 80 why there has been times where I had to turn the dial and try again. I think that happened once.
OK I have a good circuit designed using 6 relays (3 per axle). I've read all the threads and looked at plenty of circuits but I need to replicate the factory function and incorporate the limit switches and the position indicator switch just because I'm an engineer...
Relay's will be cheaper too, good bye flashing light feature.
The only timer is only there to protect the motor incase it stalls or doesn't move.
What I mean is the computer powers the motor for a period of time for it to wind the clock spring which is what triggers the limit switch telling the computer to 'kill power, motor is there' once the motor is there and the vehicle speed is low enough the locker has all day to engage.
It is not moving to 'try locking' and after so much time returning the motor to 'unlocked' if the diff doesn't engage after x seconds. Does that make sense? If your lockers needed to be cycled a couple of times, either you didn't need them(splines never aligned) or there is something wrong with the motor/clock spring/limit switch.
Everything else is easy to go! Let others know what you come up with!
What I mean is the computer powers the motor for a period of time for it to wind the clock spring which is what triggers the limit switch telling the computer to 'kill power, motor is there' once the motor is there and the vehicle speed is low enough the locker has all day to engage.
It is not moving to 'try locking' and after so much time returning the motor to 'unlocked' if the diff doesn't engage after x seconds. Does that make sense? If your lockers needed to be cycled a couple of times, either you didn't need them(splines never aligned) or there is something wrong with the motor/clock spring/limit switch.
Everything else is easy to go! Let others know what you come up with!
- Thread starter
- #14
That makes sense. Thinking about it further I think the pins 2 and 9 back to the ECU just provide the blinking function.
If they are the wires that are grounded at the diff, then yea. Those are the wires that tell the computer to do wait to blink, or solid when locked. Can't remember the pin locations
It's what I used for my air-locker ECU, nice to have the factory look and feel. I can share the design if you're interested.
Lets your rear end "float" around while the front pulls you up and over.
- Thread starter
- #19
I've decided to gut the 1977 emissions module and put my relays in it. Should make a nice clean install.
So something like pulling the truck up onto a big rock, perhaps with another big rock near your rear tires that you don't want the rear tires on (for fear of tipping)? Do I sort of have the right idea?
