Camper Conversion & Drawer System

[greentruck]

Thats nice and I'm sure it will serve you well, but I would have used hardwood plywood like maple and easing the edges makes for a real clean look, but nice job.

Well, it has served us pretty well for about 5 years now. One kind of plywood sleeps pretty much like another...

On an unlimited budget, I might have gone for better wood. IIRC, a sheet of the birch veneer stuff I used was ~$50, but I can appreciate going for the hardwood. It would've been even heavier, though. However, the added strength would mean you could get away with 1/2" (or whatever the exact measurement is because sometimes it specifies in mm thickness IIRC) on the whole thing, which might offset some of its extra weight vs veneer/pine.

 

[greentruck]

Was having a conversation just now about this and a thought occurred to me I should share about using 1/2" material. The main issue with 1/2" stuff in anything is fastener placement becomes critical, because you only have 1/2" long screws, for instance, to attach hardware. Most hardware for use with wood comes with 3/4" long screws. Sometimes it's as easy as substituting shorter screws, but you will lose some strength. Often, the issue is not so much the strength of the wood itself, it's getting things attached as solidly as you can with 3/4" sheet goods.

Then there are the T and L joints, where you run a screw through a board and into a hole drilled in the edge of another piece. Plenty of material around a screw that goes into the edge of a board with 3/4" wood, but not so much if the board is only 1/2" thick. You do have to be more exact in placement of holes, as it's much easier to miss the other board and end up with an unwanted hole and need to redrill.

There are ways to deal with this, but that requires planning and sometimes a little extra trouble to get right. Wanted to say this not to discourage anyone from using 1/2" but just to anticipate this complication. Weight is a factor and some could certainly be saved over my woodophilic design

 

[bloc]

I assume you've thought about carpet? Curious why you haven't just done that?

I need to run the numbers but it seems like the case for 1/2" ply on the top is dwindling. I'll probably still run it on the bottom. if I wasn't clear, that was my planned use for the plywood.. just the top and bottom sheets. The uprights and drawers were looking like poplar like your setup.

Do your drawer slides allow the drawers to be easily removed? I had wanted to keep the stove and most of the kitchen stuff in one drawer, maybe even left mostly set up.. and just remove the drawer and set it on the tailgate for cooking. Possibly even make one side of one of the drawers lower to not interfere.. but of course this requires drawer slides that very easily come apart.. still need to do some homework on whether the heavy duty ones allow this.

 

[Alleycats]

Yeah 1/2 " for hardwood would work good and you could drill holes with a hole saw to reduce the weight.

Well, it has served us pretty well for about 5 years now. One kind of plywood sleeps pretty much like another...

On an unlimited budget, I might have gone for better wood. IIRC, a sheet of the birch veneer stuff I used was ~$50, but I can appreciate going for the hardwood. It would've been even heavier, though. However, the added strength would mean you could get away with 1/2" (or whatever the exact measurement is because sometimes it specifies in mm thickness IIRC) on the whole thing, which might offset some of its extra weight vs veneer/pine.

 

[greentruck]

I assume you've thought about carpet? Curious why you haven't just done that?

Carpet just doesn't suit and easy to get burns scooting around on it. But it's certainly a possibility. I was just wanting something different. Budget hasn't been there to do it, so really haven't tried too hard to look for it.

I need to run the numbers but it seems like the case for 1/2" ply on the top is dwindling. I'll probably still run it on the bottom. if I wasn't clear, that was my planned use for the plywood.. just the top and bottom sheets. The uprights and drawers were looking like poplar like your setup.

Ah, OK. The compartments all have just the truck's carpet as the bottom in them, so are just open, no bottoms. The two drawers do have bottoms that are 3/4", but 1/2" will work.

Do your drawer slides allow the drawers to be easily removed?SNIP

I used Accuride 500 lb slides. They are overkill for the weight. I bought them extra heavy on the theory they're less likely to rattle or otherwise cause issues in an off-road application. Mine are non-disconnect: https://www.accuride.com/en-us/products/9308

You can spec them to disconnect, but they may be a different model number. Here's a video on how the disconnect works: https://www.youtube.com/embed/0oGtCRwrSoc?rel=0&iframe=true&width=550&height=400

I have seen people set things up so that once the drawer is slid out, then the kitchen unfolds from it if you want to leave everything attached.

More videos on the various features you can spec, etc: https://www.accuride.com/en-us/products/9308

Some folks don't use slides at all, instead using strips of UHMW. The drawer comes right out if done that way and no fiddling with disconnects. The problem is opening them on the trails, where things might just not be level when you need to get at something most. Hate to drop the tailgate and have your drawers slide out onto the dirt at some extreme angle, but maybe there's enough friction that won't happen?

For us, we slide the fridge back onto the tailgate, then crawl past it on the other half of the tailgate to get in and out most of the time, as that's easier than using the side doors for an old fart like me. We have a drop-in board that fills the space it takes when it's in forward, travel position. The space that is down there makes for a little leg room if forced by weather to stay inside, plus room to stuff boots, overcoats, etc for overnight where it's out of the way.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah 1/2 " for hardwood would work good and you could drill holes with a hole saw to reduce the weight.

Yeah, for all the horizontal members, drilling them full of holes like that should help lessen the weight. Just have to be careful no to over do it in a few critical spots, but could definitely be done.

 

[Diggs84]

Where are these patterns Mike? Also how has this design held up for 5 years?

 

[greentruck]

Diggs,
No real patterns, although I will attach a sketch I have. Basically, build the frame, then get some big pieces of cardboard to cut down until they lay on top and fit well up to the sides of the cabin. Don't make it tight against the sides or you risk squeaks or marring the cabin lining.

Pretty much the last page or so of comments discusses my additional ideas. I will say that the 2nd row section hasn't been out of the truck since installed...which is probably good for my back. You could build it all in one and save a little weight/gain a little space, but that would make it difficult to install and remove. Doable, but you'd need help.

 

[greentruck]

I had a question about what size DAC I used here and this is what I wrote, except it didn't fit on my Profile page message board, so will link back to it here for the answer...

You know, I'm not sure. Where I bought mine, the dividing line was supposed to be 60" between the minitruck and fullsize models. Just two choices, but since then someone wrote they bought one that did not require any accommodation, so maybe a bigger one?

The issue is the 80 series hatch isn't 60" wide at the top of the truck, but once you get to the bottom of the upper hatch -- it is just shy of 60". I figured they were cut square and went with the 60" and up model.

The problem of adding some extra pleating isn't the width but the shape of the hatch, including where it rests when open. Otherwise, it's a bit like the suit that is one size too small in several places.

In the end, I think what I bought as fullsize was actually what is now the midsize, but check if there isn't something about that 60" width, which is what got me a pretty good fit, that I took a few nips and tucks in to fit the 80 specifically. Or you could go with the baggier fullsize they have now, which would require no alteration per the report someone made.

 

[greentruck]

Was going through old paperwork recently, found my DAC receipt. It says I did buy the full size version. Possible they billed that and sent smaller, but guessing it is a full size.

 

[jbatx]

Looks nice. That fridge looks like it would pop right out in a bad accident. Don't get me wrong, your work looks great. I just see big risk with the fridge

 

[greentruck]

Been awhile since I visited this thread. I'm not real worried about the fridge. It sits nestled down in the drawer. Even if it broke loose from the eyebolts the turnbuckles connect to, hitting the front of the drawer space should help slow it down.

If the jerry can was full of water, that's probably more worrisome, as I typically use an old bungie cord to restrain it. I need to look into an upgrade there, even if just a better bungie.