Calling search wizards

[jcrandall]

Without going too far into the wisdom or decision making process, I will be removing the AHC this weekend and switching to an OME "level stance kit". Just tired of the random adjusting and releveling, and the front seemed to go from high to low a few times on the highway - scared the sh!t out of me.
There are plenty of awesome front installs detailed here (Brock and Gunney - don't know either of yall but owe you big for the education) and plenty of opinions on removing the top rear shock mounts, but for the life of me I can't find a rear shock and spring replacement process.

So, the question Is,
A) is the rear shock and rear spring replacement so easy that a detailed install is pointless?
B) am I missing the thread that contains this?

Assuming a thread exists, a link would be hugely appreciated. If not, when I'm done I'll post my process to give hope to the other novices out there.

 

[Mxndrnks]

I am on my phone. So, I cant link a thread for you. But, yes the rear is amazingly simple. Here is the quick way:

1. Lift one side
2. Remove tire
3. Disconnect sway bar link
4. Put bottle Jack under axle to support it.
5. Loosen bottom shock mount but do not remove bolt
6. Remove upper shock nut. I just use a box wrench and strap wrench others use the hole method. FAQ covers these.
7. Lower axle using bottle Jack and pull spring and shock. Install new in reverse.
8. Repeat for others.

Use Jack stands for safety.

Cheers.

 

[2000UZJ]

Like what Mxndrnks said, it's very simple. If your shocks have good life left in them they may push up on the upper shock mount. I have found it easier to loosen the bolt as much as you can and then remove the lower shock mount and spin the shock with a pair of vice grips on the upper nut. That way when the shock bolt comes off the shock will fall down and you are done.

 

[jcrandall]

Thank you, very appreciated.

 

[NMuzj100]

Use the hole saw method for sanity.

 

[super90]

On Step 6, get a GearWrench with the flex head, 22mm, IIRC. Only took me a couple of minutes to remove the top shock nuts with that. Hole method not need in my humble opinion, just get the correct tools.

Keep an eye on the brake lines as it is possible to put a lot of tension on the one in the middle.

 

[jcrandall]

Flexhead will be tried first, hole saw ready just in case the anger sharks start swimming. Hard to have an opinion on this part yet, but it's good to have two options. I have the patience of a buddist monk, and lots of PB Blaster - I am hoping that balances out lack of experience.

 

[super90]

If your truck is originally from Dallas, a little PB Blaster and the GearWrench and you will be just fine.

 

[geocruiser]

Flexhead will be tried first, hole saw ready just in case the anger sharks start swimming. Hard to have an opinion on this part yet, but it's good to have two options. I have the patience of a buddist monk, and lots of PB Blaster - I am hoping that balances out lack of experience.

I have the most patients of anyone I know, but I ended up using the hole saw method... But I have a rustbelt truck.

Try the flexhead wrench/strapwrench method first, but its always good to have a backup plan.

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD

 

[Mxndrnks]

When I did mine, I had a fair amount of rust. But maybe not as much as those in the ne. I only had a standard box wrench. Not a fancy flex.head or ratcheting style. What worked for me was to position the wrench so it wouldn't move and just twist the shock mount. Trying to ratchet the nut didn't make sense to me. The other two things I didn't mention above that will help when doing this is to remove the spare if you keep it in the stock location and remove the spring before the shock. Both things give you the room you need to get in there and twist the shock while the wrench works on its own while twisting the shock. Again....best of luck which ever way you go.