skrew the fog lights we want to see more pictures of that beast.
Called "Hella" b/c they're from HELL (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PKP80
- Start date
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Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Make sure that the blue wire, (which is normally going to be the + wire) is going to the bulb pigtail and the black is going to the housing ground.
- Thread starter
- #23
Waggoner5 said:
??? that is not way it shows on the diag...re wire and make the blue B+?
Waggoner5 said:
If you look on the diagram, there are 3 grounds, lights, relay and switch. All are coded as blue. The black wire to housing ground will hopefully pop the fuse... but not a necessary test? The black wire coming off the relay is hot, and is connected correctly to the pigtail of the H3 bulb.
SJ
Waggoner5 said:
If you look on the diagram, there are 3 grounds, lights, relay and switch. All are coded as blue = ground. If you take the black wire to housing ground, one will hopefully pop the fuse... but not a necessary test? The black wire coming off the relay 87 is hot, and is connected correctly to the pigtail (+) of the H3 bulb. PK, ck that the relay is clicking first, I still suspect your switch wires are crossed up (blue and yellow reversed), or you have a bad relay.
SJ
Not sure how the US models are wired but the OZ models have a earth switched headlight circuit rather than the usual positive switched system most other cars use.
The headlight has three wires, two of which will create the circuit to operate the headlight. You need to find which two wires these are. If you put a multimeter across these two wires you will get +12V. Connect the red probe wire to the switch and connect the black probe wire to the 85 terminal on the relay instead of connecting the 85 to earth.
Hope this helps you.
The headlight has three wires, two of which will create the circuit to operate the headlight. You need to find which two wires these are. If you put a multimeter across these two wires you will get +12V. Connect the red probe wire to the switch and connect the black probe wire to the 85 terminal on the relay instead of connecting the 85 to earth.
Hope this helps you.
BTW I also think Hella is from hell because they can never deliver my orders at work on time.
PKP80;
This may help a little:
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/electricity2.htm
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0072/article.html?popularArticle
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm
And check with Radio Shack, they use to carry some good basic how to books and pamplets.
...
This may help a little:
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/electricity2.htm
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0072/article.html?popularArticle
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm
And check with Radio Shack, they use to carry some good basic how to books and pamplets.
...
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
It appears according to his diagram that he has it wired correctly. I was just adding that blacks are normally ground with Hella and blue is normally hot.PKP80 said:
A simple test of realy function would be to be to uplug 30 and unplug 86. Then touch the wire from battery+ to pin 86 to test relay function. If you hear the coils latch your relay is most likely still functioning correctly. You diagram is correct. Make sure you have 12v+ on your switching wire when you activate the headlights.
G
Waggoner5 said:
An even simpler test would be wtih parking lights off (switch in on position), run a jumper from 30 (plugged in) to 86 (plugged in), then you ck both the relay and the aux light circuit, and the switch light (it should ground through the parking light circuit as PK has it wired) . Then the diag would be as follows (assume 30 is 12v+):
Switch light on + No aux lights = bad relay, bad relay ground
Switch light on + Yes aux lights = working circuit or not enough power to trigger relay
Switch light off + Yes aux lights = swap yellow and blue on swtch or break in yellow wire to switch
Switch light off + No aux ligts = bad relay, bad relay ground + bad wire to switch
In my ProRally days, we used to do this jumper test with a screwdriver, takes a couple seconds. Then when we got really fancy and used the relay plugs, just used a Hella supplied jumper (L shaped plug replaces relay) in the relay plug
Scott Justusson
- Thread starter
- #32
HELLofA SOLUTION
Checked the lights and they both work traced the problem to the Relay as many had guessed would be the problem. drew up an idea of how to wire the lights up check it out and let me know what you think. Thanx
Sam
Checked the lights and they both work traced the problem to the Relay as many had guessed would be the problem. drew up an idea of how to wire the lights up check it out and let me know what you think. Thanx
Sam
I'd highly suggest the use of a relay- this keeps the high amperage out of your dash and limits the possibility of fire better than just a fuse. There's a reason most things on a car utilize relays. Checker and AutoZone both sell 30 amp relays for lighting circuits for under $10. Cheap insurance.
-Spike
-Spike
- Thread starter
- #34
will due...try and fix the lights at camp in Pismo tomorrow. will let you know how it all goes.
