Broken tabs on injector wire connector (1 Viewer)

[pdot]

Hi Mudders,

I'm in the process of replacing the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on my hundo. All was going well until I couldn't get the injector wire connectors to click back into place. Looks like the injector side of the connection has a little tab that broke off.

When disassembling things, these were quite sticky and I did notice a good click/snap sound when pressing on the tongue of the connector to disconnect them. Guess it was the tab breaking off. This unfortunately happened on all 4 of the passenger side connectors, despite being relatively gentle with them (or so I thought).

The terminals are somewhat snug without the tabs, but could theoretically separate with enough vibration.

What's the best way forward here? Leave it as-is, replace the injectors, or try to tie the terminal together somehow? Any insight is welcome. Thanks!

 

[baltistyle]

I’ve done the same on other sensors. I used a zip tie to keep in place until I bout the replacement clip, which are available and you can re-pin. My zip tie is still in place two years later

 

[Malleus]

Check the back of the connector for the housing number. The number will be the last 5 digits of the part number. It'll be on this page.

You can buy the new connector from Toyota, but then you need to research the connector in the Wiring Harness Repair Manual ( the one you need is the one @OGBeno posted, not the one I posted - that one's too old for the 100 series), to find BOTH the terminals (they should be type 2.3 II) and the rear housing plugs/seals (PITA to find, there are a jillion sizes and materials). You have to buy all three components, in the quantities you need, from Toyota; they are not sold a s kit.

Ballenger (the link I gave you above) has the complete kit, so you don't have to research anything. They also have (or if they don't list, will make) pigtails, so all you have to do is splice the pigtail into the harness (that would be the painless alternative, not pretty, but painless). The splice would go into the split loom so no problem with exposure. You do need a roll of high temp silicone electrical tape to cover the splice (any type will do), after the heat shrink wrap. If you can find high temp silicone heat shrink, let me know...

If you buy the parts, you need to cut the wires as close to the rear seals as you can (it'll be OK, you'll only lose a fraction of an inch) and crimp new terminals there. I'd highly recommend Ballenger's crimp tool. It's made for these terminals. The bullet splice crimpers will not work. Well, don't work well anyway.

FWIW, I believe, along with Ballenger, that all the waterproof connectors are Sumitomo. The Yazaki connectors are used for the interior harness connections.

 

[2001LC]

4 choices I can think of:

1. Do nothing, just clean and check they're snug once in awhile.
2. Zip tie.
3. Supper glue hack, building up new catch tab.
4. Replace injectors. Used injectors are cheap and some may not give a good spray pattern. They should be clean tested & rebuilt.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[pdot]

Thanks for the thoughtful responses. I'll maybe go with the zip ties for now as a quick lo-tech solution.

For the driver side connectors, I'll try to get those apart without breaking them. Maybe a little PB or WD40 or Isopropyl would loosen/lube them?

 

[2001LC]

I use a needle nose pliers, squeeze release catch from top. As I pull upward with hook from bottom. I've done dozens and dozen, without any FI catches busting, the way!