Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud Solution (1 Viewer)

[Wompom]

Leaving this here in case it can help someone in the future.
I went to remove my down pipe and first cat to replace it with a magnaflow. One stud on each manifold snapped and another stripped badly.
Vice grips were no hope.
Soaked in acetone and atf for two days and used this tool ($20 on Amazon).

Very impressed with it considering it only had 4 threads to bite into!
Fwiw I had just installed these studs and nuts 70mi ago during an engine rebuild with anti seize. Good luck if you have to do this!

 

[BILT4ME]

Leaving this here in case it can help someone in the future.
I went to remove my down pipe and first cat to replace it with a magnaflow. One stud on each manifold snapped and another stripped badly.
Vice grips were no hope.
Soaked in acetone and atf for two days and used this tool ($20 on Amazon). View attachment 1741445 View attachment 1741446 View attachment 1741447
Very impressed with it considering it only had 4 threads to bite into!
Fwiw I had just installed these studs and nuts 70mi ago during an engine rebuild with anti seize. Good luck if you have to do this!

I'm curious...did you use the silver anti-seize or copper colored anti-seize?

 

[Wompom]

I'm curious...did you use the silver anti-seize or copper colored anti-seize?

I have both - but i believe i used silver on this since it said it was safe in high temp areas such as this/o2 sensors.

 

[BILT4ME]

I have both - but i believe i used silver on this since it said it was safe in high temp areas such as this/o2 sensors.

I ask because the silver is ALUMINUM based. I have seen the aluminum based anti-seize actually CAUSE galling when used with one of the threaded components is aluminum (head in this case)

I would have used the copper here, not necessarily because of heat, but because of dissimilar metals and copper anti-seize won't cause galling on aluminum.

 

[Wompom]

I ask because the silver is ALUMINUM based. I have seen the aluminum based anti-seize actually CAUSE galling when used with one of the threaded components is aluminum (head in this case)

I would have used the copper here, not necessarily because of heat, but because of dissimilar metals and copper anti-seize won't cause galling on aluminum.

This was on the manifold to exhaust, not head.

I did use silver on the other nut/stud joint on the head to the manifold but not INTO the head.

Good advice though for those who don't know!

 

[maxamillion2345]

Nickel would be a good choice too

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Did u use & or apply any heat , such as a torch

 

[Wompom]

Did u use & or apply any heat , such as a torch

I did not. They had been installed 2 weeks before so I didn't think it was even an issue. They felt like they were coming off and then just snapped. The nut actually backed off each a good 5 threads before they caught and snapped. I think the collar caught something on the nut and seized it.

 

[Erwin]

I usually weld on a nut on the broken bolt. Using high current this heats the bolt to red, and then I use the nut to unscrew it. Never fails, even if there is literally no threads protruding. The tool looks good though, even if there is a chance the bolt will snap again.

 

[Heckraiser]

I need to do this job soon (stripped stud = exhaust leak). I'm assuming by your photo that you did it on the truck?

I fear mine will not go so easy (323k miles) and I will have to pull my manifolds off

 

[Wompom]

I usually weld on a nut on the broken bolt. Using high current this heats the bolt to red, and then I use the nut to unscrew it. Never fails, even if there is literally no threads protruding. The tool looks good though, even if there is a chance the bolt will snap again.

Unfortunately i, as well as many on here don't have a welder right now. Figured this would help anyone who needs to do this who is new to wrenching .
After heating my transmission cross member bolts to get them to release and smoke coming out of the frame I'm a bit paranoid with heat now anyway.

I need to do this job soon (stripped stud = exhaust leak). I'm assuming by your photo that you did it on the truck?

I fear mine will not go so easy (323k miles) and I will have to pull my manifolds off

I did do mine on the truck. I originally removed the nuts from below which sucked with the driveshaft in. I did the broken studs and installed new nuts and studs from above during installation. Way easier using a combination wrench .
I do have freakishly long arms though.
Definitely soak them in the mix of ATF and acetone for a good while .