Bringing Bluff City Back with a FJ60 V8 Swap

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So I had a thread started over in the cottonland clubhouse for my FJ60, but its turned into a whole ass V8 swap, so I figured I would post the build up over here too. Wondering if anyone still views this clubhouse much anymore.

Here is the link to the FJ60 thread. Theres other mods and stuff done prior to the V8 swap there if anyone cares to check it out.



Anyways. Heres how it started...


LM7 5.3 with 70K miles and a 2wd 4l60e off the back of it.


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Brought it back home and felt kind of bad towing it with the 2f in the 60


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Few parts started showing up here and there.

Going to run this FJ62 lower airbox with a late FZJ80 upper airbox lid and 80 series air filter as an airbox for the swap

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Marks Adapters for oil pressure and water temp got here from Australia in 5 days. Pretty crazy. Have some Toyota senders hand tight in the adapters to test fit.

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Hot Rod Oilpan kit


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This is pretty cool, The LandCruiser Shop has a motor mount and crossmember kit that they say you can measure from a certain bolt hole for your skid plate and that will give you the crossmember location. Then with your motor mounts installed, it gives you a rough position of where you motor needs to be. Hoping for the best on this one


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Cameron Mosley @ mosley motors came through with that straight up bling. Feel like i went to Mr. Goldman for a radiator


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So Waiting on my Wiring harness to be built, AA transfer case adapter, headers, shifter, etc.

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Parts list so far. Just in case anyone was looking to do the same. You never know who is reading this.... so the prices have been secretly omitted.

Ended up getting the Advanced adapters T case adapter at @torfab they had one in stock, but are trying to find me a missing gasket. AA is months out on the main adapter aluminum chunk. The current line is 35 people deep

Was originally going to get a Walbro fuel pump, but the market is really oversaturated with fake chineese knockoffs of them, and its hard to spot fakes. The DeatschWerks is a proven fuelpump that is commonly used in drift cars with LS swaps and they are very easy to spot fakes with. Fingers crossed i dont have any fuel pump problems with it.
 
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Got all fluids drained today without spilling a drop in the driveway thanks to the radiator box, and everything disconnected and labeled that was attached to my 2f. It is freaking hot in my driveway. Sucks to suck

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All thats left is to disconnect 2 fuel lines, the motor mounts, and the crossmember and this sucker is out of there and off to @FJ60Cam for some work for the dude who bought the motor and for shipping.
 
That Rad is sexy.
 
Man you are better than me. I'm 3 weeks in on an axle rebuild...
 
3 days to get that 2F out? Looking at that picture it should take about 3 minutes!

What motor mounts/crossmember does “Land Cruiser shop” sell?
 
3 days to get that 2F out? Looking at that picture it should take about 3 minutes!

What motor mounts/crossmember does “Land Cruiser shop” sell?

Haha it’s like 100 degrees in my driveway so I can only work on it for so long at a time unfortunately. I’m at the point where I can just undo the crossmember and motor mounts and out it will come!

they made their own motor mounts with energy suspension bushings. And their crossmember they make themselves and uses the GM mount. Figured it would save me some time. My 60 is my daily driver so I need it down for as little as possible
 
@dbbowen Yes! Can’t wait to see this project come along. Going to be ready for Cruiser Crawl?
 
Nice! I believe I've seen that 60 around town before.

I think theres another white fj62 and another white 60 putting around town too. Unfortunately this one wont be driving for a while hah

@dbbowen Yes! Can’t wait to see this project come along. Going to be ready for Cruiser Crawl?

Man, i sure hope so. Im projecting about a month or month in a half once i get the motor in to tie it all up if everything works out somewhat well
 
Had some buddies come by and pulled the motor making sure to leave some good love taps on my sheet metal with the transfer case on the way out. Pea gravel driveway and engine hoist do not go well together. At all.

next is to remove the Tcase and clean this motor up and get it 3 miles down the road to Camerons shop.


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Nice work! Cant wait to see the new motor sitting in there.

you and me both man. Covid is killing me on getting parts. Need the headers, shifter, and t case adapter to come on and get here ha
 
T case is on. Still need to get the shifter bracket figured out. The instructions and diagrams in the AA kit really really suck. Half of them are for the 700r4 transmission.

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Going to have to cut the top of the shifter bracket off so the lever has room to move. The little plastic square isnt fully engaged in the shifter cut out when i use the lock washer. When i dont use the lock washer it sits in there flush but i have even less clearance with the top of the shifter. Going to see if its any better with the bracket cut up tonight and see if i have full range of motion.

If i have to lose the lock washer for the shifter bolt, im assuming some red loctite will work to hold the bolt in

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Some actual tech for the thread...


If you are using a gen3 dbw system and want to have your ac idle up run like factory, youll need to control it through the PCM. The AC amp mod will need to be done still, but you need an extra driver chip and an extra capacitor on your PCM. Most silverados and tahoes do not come with this pcm but a lot of the express vans do. I lucked out and popped my pcm open and had the extra capacitor and chip installed already.


Basically this is the hardware needed to let the pcm control your idle. If you want to run drive by cable, you need this pcm as well. Drive by cable does not work on a dbw only pcm. You will basically get the computer on HP Tuners and tell the pcm to accept 12v for the ac request signal and splice into the wire connector.


I might not be using the correct terminology for some of this stuff but its all on ls1tech. Here are the photos of the extra chip and capacitor on the pcm board.

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