Bringing Bluff City Back with a FJ60 V8 Swap (1 Viewer)

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Since i'm swapping to the GM Compressor, all of the AC stuff is getting replaced. Knocked out the Evaporator today. Gotta say, this was much easier than i was planning on it being. Just unplug everything. Undo 2 bolts and like 5 screws in total and pull the box out.

Old cruddy Evaporator. Theres got to be a way to add a filter or something somewhere inline to keep this debris out

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New Evaporator and expansion valve. Probably should have swapped that little switch in there too but it works fine so it stayed.

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AC Amp mod. Supposedly this will disable the rpm sensing circuitry so the compressor doesnt kick in on start up or low idle. Then, by using the extra driver chip and extra capacitor in my GM PCM i can control the Idle up with the engine computer via HP Tuners by using 12v. Both of these things together SHOULD give me a stock running AC system, as it was designed to be ran.




I also decided to just use the Silverado gas pedal, as it was matching to the Tac module that came from the donor truck and it was all matching. Seems like other folks use car pedals for the positioning but with some "mods" the Silverado pedal works and fits just fine in there. Also, this was included with my motor so i didnt have to spend any more money. I just traced out the land cruiser mounting bracket onto some cardboard and made the one usable mounting hole on the silverado pedal line up with the left mounting hole on the LC template.

I basically cut the entire bottom off of the bracket, then recycled one of the mounting tabs from it. Then I made it oblong to give me some adjustability in mounting it to the firewall. On the side of the Silverado pedal, I ground down a groove for the tab to ride in and welded it in.

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I forgot to take pictures of this, but i just cut off the majority of the Silverado pedal arm. Then cut off the LC pedal about an inch after it gets straight towards the top. I threw down some welding blanket on my floor and mounted the new hacked up pedal to the firewall and tacked in the land cruiser pedal to the new bracket. After verifying it was in a good location i took it all off and burned it in. Probably should have cleaned the material a little better but whatever it works. No one will see the welds and its going to be painted black.

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So the Landcruiser Shop mount and bracket kit only works with 4l80e transmissions. I have a 4l60e so i had to go a different route. Using @Well Sorted motor mounts and the Advance adapters crossmember mount. Going to sleeve the bolt holes on the crossmember because tehy look like they will crush with enough torque but Here are the mounts. One side had a little bit of a gap that i had to fill because the frame isnt a completely squared surface and the weld looks kinda wonky there but you win some you lose some.

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Solid supervision to make sure welds were up to par

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Aaand the motor goes in.


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Accidentally ripped a brake line out and my buddy made me a new one. Its a beaut. Tried to copy the coiled ones right behind it a little bit. Brake fluid got all over my paint and it looks like s*** now on the frame :/

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Also got the crossmember fully burned in and the motor is 100% on its own weight and in its final resting place now. Got a TON of room for my fan, and might have to modify the hood a little bit because the intake is pretty high. Got the motor up as high as possible for axle clearance.

Added gas struts to the hood and got the radiator in there for shroud measurements. Think i am going to do the cooling/heater stuff first and fuel. Once the shroud gets here ill be able to hard mount the rad and start on the AC lines

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Also, this is kind of unrelated, but i got this monster angle grinder that i am pretty obsessed with. Its Milwaukee 2981-20. Runs 4.5 - 6 inch discs and makes as much power as a 13 amp corded grinder. For a cordless its a beast. Its got this stop thing on it when you release the power paddle that stops the wheel from spinning in less than 3 seconds. Im digging it

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Got the Heater hoses all mocked up and cut. tucked in along the injector rail. Hope i have room back there to turn the injectors backwards and tuck the wiring harness when it comes time for wiring. Need to write down the amount of clamps i need so i can order some stainless hose clamps with the liners in them. Need to flush out the Toyota red from my heater so i can run the GM orange stuff and throw the clamps on and the cooling system is done.

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Nice and low profile

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Radiator hoses mocked up too. Cut the lower one about 3/16 inch too short but it will still work


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Ordered up a metric crap load of AN fittings for the Trans lines and fuel lines. Hopefully this week i'll get the fuel system mocked up and measure what i need for Fuel line and fuel will be all done.

Once the shroud arrives i can knock off pretty quickly:

-AC System, need condenser in place to build brackets for PS and Trans coolers, then will have local dude come do my AC hoses
- PS System, @FJ60Cam PS hose kit is installed, just need to install the cooler and PS is done
- Trans lines, running one AN trans line under the fan shroud to the cooler in the driver side of the radiator, then to the external cooler, then another AN line back into the system on the passenger side.
-Fuel, Mount tank to fuel pump filter, fuel pump, high pressure fuel filter, then AN line to the AN6 fitting i have on the fuel rail. OEM regulator on the fuel rail is going to be used, and return line is already installed.
-Ordered a Vaccuum hose for a firstgen camaro with a 90* molded into it to run off of the brake booster and to the back of the V8. I made a fitting using an old steel line from the 2f mated to the push lock vaccuum connector on the V8 with a 90* bend in it. This will make a clean vaccuum line with no kinks

Hoping i can get all this done in the next few weeks, then it will be down to Trans/Tcase shifters, Airbox, wiring, and PCM tune. Will be using OEM 1980s era toyota Cruise control, will post pictures when its done. Its going to be freaking awesome. Going to be period correct on the inside of the truck.

Trying to get some Driveshafts ordered from Reel Driveline via @woody 's recommendation this week. Doing Fj60 ujoints with a 2 inch thickwall tube in the front and FJ60 stuff in the back with thickwall tube in the back. Really hoping the output flanges from the FJ60 diffs swap over to the Fzj80 axles in the future. If not thats going to suck.
 
Any update? Did you get it finished
Oh yeah it’s been done for a while haha just never finished my thread out. Did a how to thread on the 60 series tech forum though to help anyone out with the swap. It was super easy all things considered
 
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