Brakes problem

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Jan 21, 2022
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Australia
Hi I am new to this forum joined as I own an HDJ81 model 95 with 1HDFT.
Problem is with brakes I have replaced all 4 disc rotors all pads, proportioning valve, master cylinder and booster still brakes pedal not upto the mark, it goes down and vehicle doesn't respond when double the pedal it stops. Checked there are no leaks. Vehicle has ABS system which is working. Can anyone help what is causing this problem?
 
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Olathe, KS, USA
Hi I am new to this forum joined as I own an HDJ81 model 95 with 1HDFT.
Problem is with brakes I have replaced all 4 disc rotors all pads, proportioning valve, master cylinder and booster still brakes pedal not upto the mark, it goes down and vehicle doesn't respond when double the pedal it stops. Checked there are no leaks. Vehicle has ABS system which is working. Can anyone help what is causing this problem?
Is this a RHD?

It will affect what order we tell you to bleed the system.
 
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Charlotte, NC & Alexandria, VA
Is this a RHD?

It will affect what order we tell you to bleed the system.
^this. Sounds like air in the lines to me, too. General practice is to bleed from the farthest point from the master cylinder to the nearest, an on 80 series, with the LSBPV bled at both actuator lever positions (move the lever up, then down to actuate the valve) after the rear cylinders, then the front cylinders.

For some reason as yet unknown (at least to me) these systems are notoriously difficult to bleed. I have three; two won't bleed correctly no matter what I do, the third bleeds exactly as it's supposed to, every time and has like new brake pedal feel and stopping power. All three rolled off the line months apart.

Good luck.

FWIW, as @gnob suggests, if your wheel bearings are loose, you can experience poor braking performance. This is most likely to happen immediately after bearing replacement, is intermittent and rarely corrected by pumping the brake pedal.
 

Ozark80

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im having a similar issue with a hard brake pedal, especially on cold starts. I feel a “whooshing” when I press it partially or pump them up and the pedal goes stiff.

Is this more likely to be contaminated fluid, or a vacuum leak at the booster?
 
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Ouch the OEM part is $$$. Would NAPA be ok for this or is OEM a must?

Also is this a doable one🍌job in the driveway? Thanks
I went the OEM route.

I did it in my driveway and it was a :banana::banana: project until it decided it wanted to be a :banana::banana::banana: project.

Came apart easy, went back in relatively easy, but the last 1/2" took me longer than all the rest combined. I know of one other person that had a similar issue and it has to do with getting all the interior brackets, carpet, firewall holes aligned at the same time to get it to come together.

All in all, it took me about 4 hours with a 6 hour break in the middle to clear my head and cool down.

I bought my booster from partsouq for $420. Don't forget all the gaskets between the booster and firewall, booster to MC, and replace the hose and check valve ass'y to the manifold/booster. All together was about $520 on 1/20/2021.
 

clx16

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My booster died. Wasn't that bad of job but i wish i would have made it worse and did the master cylinder too. Anyway you def should do it as it can fail and surprise you how much it used to help.

Consider bleeding a flush and really put a lot through, then find some gravel or ice so you can activate abs a few times...bleed some more.
 

Ozark80

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My booster died. Wasn't that bad of job but i wish i would have made it worse and did the master cylinder too. Anyway you def should do it as it can fail and surprise you how much it used to help.

Consider bleeding a flush and really put a lot through, then find some gravel or ice so you can activate abs a few times...bleed some more.
Any special tools needed for the job?
 

clx16

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I find wobble head sockets are good for getting the bolts under the peddle. scissors are nice since i didn't get all the gasket stuff i needed and had to make my own from gasket paper. If you have a 10mm brakeline wrench/spanner it is much nicer on your bleeder screws. Its not a hard job, you undo the bolts from inside and then some brackets by the master cylinder. you end up bending/flexing the hard lines on the master cylinder to get the booster out. and getting it in is just about how you manage to hold things out of the way and spinning that thing like you are doing tetris to get it in. I almost made the bolts shorter since it would have been nicer. was about to but then i got it. might consider it if you get to see how much extra threading you have before you remove... it was about a 3 hour job for me, but i could do it a lot faster the second time around. I still need to get a replacement vacuum line i think i have a bit of a leak since it has a good crack in it.
 
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In my opinion the Seiken W0133-1740427 which is about $300 on sites like partsgeek.com is an acceptable, OE equivalent booster.

It looked like the same unit with at least most of the same markings as the OG when I replaced mine last year. There's been some forum discussion and disagreement on whether or not this is the same booster but in terms of fit and function I think it can be considered equivalent.
 
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im having a similar issue with a hard brake pedal, especially on cold starts. I feel a “whooshing” when I press it partially or pump them up and the pedal goes stiff.

Is this more likely to be contaminated fluid, or a vacuum leak at the booster?
Just a friendly reminder:

I realize you're new here, but it's generally considered polite to start a new thread when discussing topics not specifically related to the OP's post. Highjacking someone else's post draws attention away from their problem, and the proposed potential solutions, to their detriment. Also, not creating your own post makes it hard for others to benefit from the advice and/or experience being shared, since the two topics might not be the same.
 

Ozark80

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Just a friendly reminder:

I realize you're new here, but it's generally considered polite to start a new thread when discussing topics not specifically related to the OP's post. Highjacking someone else's post draws attention away from their problem, and the proposed potential solutions, to their detriment. Also, not creating your own post makes it hard for others to benefit from the advice and/or experience being shared, since the two topics might not be the same.
Yea sorry about that. I usually like to bump old related threads so as not to dilute info with a new post, but in this case I can see I was thread jacking the OP.
 

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