Brake fluid level sensor (1 Viewer)

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Is it possible to buy a brake fluid level sensor (attaches to the lid of reservoir) with float and wire connections on it's own without buying a whole reservoir kit or master cylinder??? My current set-up is the float sensor type and looking for a replacement (not a brake pressure switch) ...seems the PO has lost or damaged the float so cut a wire, which I can't re-join...assuming he had done this to disarm the dash light...
TOYOTA BJ40 1977
MODEL BJ40RV-KCQ
ENGINE B 2977CC/181.6cu (CHANGED ENGINE TO 3B 05308811)3.4lt engine
FRAME (VIN???)# BJ40-036295
 
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The 2 sensors are part number 84390-30011 for 1971-1980 FJ40. Might be the same for a BJ?

That part number is for the low brake pressure warning switches, not the low brake fluid warning sensor.

You would have to retrofit something in order to get the low fluid warning. Plus you would have to wire up an indicator light and a power feed if you do find a reservoir that had the float/switch and wire.
 
I switched over to the float switch when I did the 3FE conversion, deleted the two pressure switches. I used the old indicator and just wired the float switch in parallel with the E brake switch so either will make the light come on. I got the float switch at the pick n pull for a few dollars, It was on something Toyota. Get the mating electrical connector and wires also. If I recall the new float switches were ridiculously high priced.

If you wanted to keep the existing pressure switch set up you could wire the float switch in parallel with the e-brake switch, then either low level or the e-brake or low pressure would make the light come on. Easier way would be to wire the float switch in parallel with the pressure switches, but then it would only work if the brake pedal was pushed.
 
The 2 sensors are part number 84390-30011 for 1971-1980 FJ40. Might be the same for a BJ?
Thanks mate...got those numbers form Toyota yesterday...not looking for a pressure switch...I have edited my original post to be more clear...I hope!!!
 
I switched over to the float switch when I did the 3FE conversion, deleted the two pressure switches. I used the old indicator and just wired the float switch in parallel with the E brake switch so either will make the light come on. I got the float switch at the pick n pull for a few dollars, It was on something Toyota. Get the mating electrical connector and wires also. If I recall the new float switches were ridiculously high priced.

If you wanted to keep the existing pressure switch set up you could wire the float switch in parallel with the e-brake switch, then either low level or the e-brake or low pressure would make the light come on. Easier way would be to wire the float switch in parallel with the pressure switches, but then it would only work if the brake pedal was pushed.

Thanks for your reply..I already have the float setup but PO has lost or damaged the float and assume has cut wire to disarm dash light and not long enough to join and not too sure if it's simple enough to attach a whole new wire to the connection...I have no handbrake/E brake ATM as PO neglected to have it repaired...as much as I want it repaired I don't want to be fixing HB on a regular basis as I am hearing they are known to play up regularly and I've never done brakes on a transfer case before... I am also limited for tools and parts as vehicle is on a very remote island in Oz where I work 1 week on 1 off...I am considering wheel HB conversion eventually but will be looking into the option of front wheels as I will convert to disc brakes at front also...not sure if the HB to front is even achievable ATM but will be looking into it when the time comes...
 
84460-12011 (front) and 84460-20020 (rear) might fit as they are for the mid 70s dual reservoir master cylinders. You will find they are about $100 each and probably not worth the investment since they just "might" fit and possibly discontinued now.
 

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