Brake Bleeder screws stuck!

[WGermer]

So I'm trying to bleed the rear brakes after doing the master cylinder rebuild. My front bleeder screws came loose easily, but the rears are stuck. I shot BP blaster on both rear bleeder screws for the past 2 days. Then after trying it again tonight with no luck, I tried putting some heat on it with a little propane torch, but still no luck. I'm using a 10mm line wrench, but as you can see in the linked pics, the screw is just deforming. Any ideas from the wise ones?

The real kicker is that 6 months ago i had the local dealer do a brake fluid flush in the hopes of fixing my sticking brake pedal (hence the master cyl rebuild). I'm thinking that if they actually did a brake fluid flush they would have opened the rear bleeder screws right?

1999 UZJ100 • 200k mi

Dropbox - brake bleeder1.jpg

Dropbox - brake bleeder2.jpg

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Keep up with the pb blaster for a few days in a row. Keep heating and cooling it. If you need to, buy a new bleeder valve, pinch the brake line with vice grips, and use a bolt extractor to remove the old one. If it snaps, you may need to weld a bolt to the remaining stub, and repeat the removal.

 

[aljollano]

Use the 10mm socket first, one it is loose you can use the inline wrench.

A.J

 

[cap80]

Like AJ said try a socket but make sure it is a 6 point.

 

[WGermer]

Yeah, I posted this same question on the Facebook TLC page and people were saying to use a socket. I'm going to try that.

 

[dubitup]

I had a stubborn on on the passenger rear, I tried everything to get it off w/o any luck. I landed up using some vice grips and getting after it, it did finally come out. Auto parts store had a replacement bleeder

 

[abuck99]

Try a torque wrench on that 10mm socket- for a little additional leverage-Or
You might have to remove the caliper to use an Impact Driver on it-

Or Nuclear option- sharp chisel-& ball peen hammer to get it to turn. Be careful.

Good luck

 

[NC-Grayson]

Here's another vote for the 6 point socket, and if that fails, another vote for some vice grips. And leverage.

 

[WGermer]

Well the outcome is not good. I followed many ideas, hit it with a hammer, off and on. I Tapped on a 10mm and tried to turn it off, still no luck as the socket started twisting. More heat and more hammer, put the 10mm socket back on, tried loosening and tightening. nothing. Tried my electric impact which did nothing. Finally put the socket back on and it felt like it wasn't slipping, put more muscle into it... and it sheared off.

I'm looking into just replacing the calipers now, as I've drilled and tapped too many things, and I don't trust that the threads will be secure enough for brake pressure.

 

[n55luvr]

Been through this before and my end result was a new caliper too so I feel ya. Sucks but after trying so many ways to get those stupid bleeders out you get to a point where you just have to give up and go with new (or reman'd).

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

After 7mins 30 seconds, of redneck antics, this guy finally welds a nut to the broken bleeder and replaces with a new one..."shock the monkey!" @ 2:08 makes the video

 

[WGermer]

So here's what I ended up doing. New calipers were all out of stock locally, and would have to be ordered in. So I called up a buddy who's a welder, and he came over and welded on a nut. That one sheared off some more off the valve. Then we did it again,and it broke off as well. The third time he got out his torch and really heated up the cast iron area by the valve, and then welded on a new washer, and then a nut. It finally came off with a electric impact.

On the other side after using the torch, we only had to weld on one nut to get that side out. So it seems that a torch and a welder is the key.

Thanks for everyone's ideas.

Wyatt

 

[mr111]

I had the same exact issue, the bleeder was locked solid and a six point sheared it off. I didn't want to wait for a new caliper to get mailed to me, so I took the caliper off the car and drilled out the bleeder. If you follow the hole down the bit stays pretty centered. Drill until the center hole disappears for a while and then reappears. The drill bit diameter I used was right up to the root of the thread. Once through, I chased the old thread that remained out with a tap. You may be thinking I drilled through the seat for the bleeder and you'd be right. Turns out the base material is pretty soft in the caliper so I put a new "help" import bleeder in there and really tightened it down hard. The tip of the new bleeder made its own seat that looked smooth but was smaller than the existing seat at the ID of the hole. It works like new and hasn't leaked. Not for everyone but worked great for me.