Bowed - rear lower control arm (1 Viewer)

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kcjaz

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Feb 7, 2016
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Olathe, KS
Hi folks,
I posted this question on the 200 forum but am not getting the answer I want which is basically to agree with me that a slightly bowed RLCA on my 200 isn't an immediate cause for concern. Of course, I do really want to know if I'm wrong about that. See my post in link below:


Also, I looked at the geometric measurements again redid the math with a 1/2" arc height rather than the initial 1/4" value I used and that makes the difference in effective RLCA length about 0.02" not the 0.005 reference in my post. I still think this is essentially nothing to worry about from a safety perspective or any mechanical wear related issue. That said, its always the thing you can't see or understand that bites you. That's why I ask lots of questions.
 
It could potentially have an impact on alignment. :meh: Cut and sleeve them, weld some angle to the bottom of them to beef them up, or buy some HD ones. Welcome to the joy of playing on the big rocks.
 
Just for reference, I have adjustable lower and upper links and a half turn (which is the minimum adjustment that can be made) equals 1 mm (0.04" but LC's are metric :) That's twice your worst case calculated length change so yes, I wouldn't worry about the difference either.
 
So I put the 200 up on friends lift to get a good look underneath ad see what other damage I did this last weekend. I decided to not do anything with the RLCA now but I did look up the torque values after I had removed one nut to see how hard it was to push a bolt out. The FSM says this to remove the RLCA:

1636594465898.png


Do you really have to open the KDSS valves to remove a RLCA? After I took the nut off I was able to tap the bolt out with a mallet. I didn't remove it but there didn't seem to be a lot of pressure on it just friction from the bushing. I would never have even thought to check the FSM to remove the RLCA as it just seems to be two bolts and maybe pushing and pulling the axle a little.
 
I receive them one at a time on the ground. Sometimes have to use a small ratchet strap to help align bolts. They need to be torqued at right height.

They have been bent on my 80 for years. I figure they are self clearanced. Just slight bend. If it gets to big I’ll sleeve and straighten.
 
I receive them one at a time on the ground. Sometimes have to use a small ratchet strap to help align bolts. They need to be torqued at right height.

They have been bent on my 80 for years. I figure they are self clearanced. Just slight bend. If it gets to big I’ll sleeve and straighten.
I have been replacing mine on the 80 if bent too bad since I figured it's affect tire wear like Rob said. $50 x 2 bucks for used but bushings no? But heck all my bushings are probably in need of replacement. So if I do one then I have to do them all.
 

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