Boost cut for 1kz-te engine.

[gotoy]

I have a boost controller on my 1kz-te. At 1bar the boost cut comes on from the ECU.

Anyone know how to bypass for the boost cut?

 

[kbushnz]

You need to put a volt clamp on the MAP sensor.....The petrol heads do it...
I tried but fried the MAP sensor...(might have been a faulty unit....was used)
So gave up and went to manual injection pump.....When my funds allowed it
Or you get a chip for the ECU....but they were more expensive then the manual pump.
DP CHIP TOYOTA SURF 3.0LTR 1KZTE DIESEL POWER UPGRADE | eBay

 

[gotoy]

I have read an article on one forum on how to do the boost cut. But which forum i can't recall which one. Was as simple as removing the boost sensor from what I recall. That was before I wanted to do it.

Already have an equivalent of the DP Chip and still the problem persists.

Options are:
1. Await until I can relocate the forum.
2. Limit boost to just below cut off, say 14psi.
3. Go manual fuel pump.

 

[Landcruiser Power]

Id go with number 3 you wont be disappointed and then you can run all the boost you wont

 

[pradocruzer]

Hey gotoy. There is a thread I started "Reducing 2lte egt's ". Most laughed, or didn't understand it, but it works well. The cut and dry of it was to bleed off boost to the boost sensor so the computer thinks the boost is one amount while the turbo is producing more boost. I was able to run 18lbs of boost and the computer was not in fuel cut out and the power was still there.
This is not the best answer but if your playing around it's cheap fun. You need a boost and egt gauge to dial it in. I have been running it in my truck for the last 2 years and no problems. My 2lte likes 15 lbs of boost with the computer seeing 12 lbs of boost. Egt's and power works well with that set up on mine. The manual pump I think is the answer but not cheap and a pain with the auto but fully doable.

 

[Dougal]

There's an easy way. Fit a manual boost controller (spring and ball type) to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor then only sees the boost you want it to see.

 

[gotoy]

Hey gotoy. There is a thread I started "Reducing 2lte egt's ". Most laughed, or didn't understand it, but it works well. The cut and dry of it was to bleed off boost to the boost sensor so the computer thinks the boost is one amount while the turbo is producing more boost. I was able to run 18lbs of boost and the computer was not in fuel cut out and the power was still there.
This is not the best answer but if your playing around it's cheap fun. You need a boost and egt gauge to dial it in. I have been running it in my truck for the last 2 years and no problems. My 2lte likes 15 lbs of boost with the computer seeing 12 lbs of boost. Egt's and power works well with that set up on mine. The manual pump I think is the answer but not cheap and a pain with the auto but fully doable.

Lucky mines manual.....

 

[gotoy]

There's an easy way. Fit a manual boost controller (spring and ball type) to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor then only sees the boost you want it to see.

Might be worth looking at this.

 

[gotoy]

There's an easy way. Fit a manual boost controller (spring and ball type) to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor then only sees the boost you want it to see.

Might be worth a look at this.

 

[Psilosin]

There's an easy way. Fit a manual boost controller (spring and ball type) to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor then only sees the boost you want it to see.

So you would be using 2 seperate boost controllers? One on the line to the wastegate and the other on the line to the MAP sensor?

 

[Dougal]

So you would be using 2 seperate boost controllers? One on the line to the wastegate and the other on the line to the MAP sensor?

You may be able to run one. It depends on how the ECU responds.
The line to the wastegate won't go higher than the ECU boost cut, but it will read lower than the actual boost up to that point. I don't know if this will confuse the ECU or not.

Running a seperate one on the MAP sensor line is the best way. I don't like boost controllers for wastegates anyway, I prefer to cut and thread the actuator arm to get more boost, this way you get more preload on the wastegate arm to prevent it blowing open.

 

[gotoy]

So you would be using 2 seperate boost controllers? One on the line to the wastegate and the other on the line to the MAP sensor?

Yes, this appears to be the way to go. A few fellow offroaders are using this method, as I have recently found out.

What would be the max boost you are all using?

 

[everbret]

Hi there,

I actually was able to get around this on my 2L-TE. I used a MAP sensor controller from HHO Browns fuel systems. It basically puts a resistor across the lead coming from the MAP sensor to the ECU. It is a variable resistor, so you can adjust the fuel dump to the boost you get from your controller (adjust according to when the green light comes on). I set it so the green light comes on at 5-6ppi. It has worked quite well, though I didn't get as much MPG improvement that I thought I would.

cheers

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi there,

I actually was able to get around this on my 2L-TE. I used a MAP sensor controller from HHO Browns fuel systems. It basically puts a resistor across the lead coming from the MAP sensor to the ECU. It is a variable resistor, so you can adjust the fuel dump to the boost you get from your controller (adjust according to when the green light comes on). I set it so the green light comes on at 5-6ppi. It has worked quite well, though I didn't get as much MPG improvement that I thought I would.

cheers

I plan to do something like this with my 2lte as well. I'm simply going to wire a 10k potentiometer into the signal line of the MAP Sensor to ground. There is a fellow in the UK who did this with good result. Here is a quote on his experience (along with a picture) from the Hilux Surf forums:

"
Hi Guys,

Newbie looking to get better fuel economy and less black smoke from my '92 2nd gen ln130.

This thread is great,

Using the information in it I have opted for the electrical restriction...

I calculated that a 10k potentiometer in the signal wire would be able to reduce the output signal to 0V without causing a loading issue. I fitted it all in at weekend and presto !!

I now have complete control of the signal output from the cab. At full resistance the turbo light doesn't come on at all, least resistance light comes on at 0.2 bar. I have tested the setup on the highway and can dial in the signal such that I get a more gradual fuelling, a lot less black smoke, but just as much power (turbo light on at 0.9 bar). Fuel consumption is now the test but looks promising already.

"

 

[BeratE]

Good stuff. Fitting my gauges at the moment so I can start playing soon

 

[kanemcv]

boost cut defeater

Hi guys, started playing with the boost in my 1kz and found the same problem as yous, so designed a boost chip to defeat the fuel cut. its a simple unit with only 5 wires. have extensively tested these units on mates trucks and have just started selling them. my own truck im free boosting at 27 psi for over a year now and noticed my egts drop to 610 deg c opposed to original temps of over 850deg. sure i admit its definitely hard on the poor little turbo, but the engine loves it. if any one is interested please email me at kanemcv@gmail.com and i can provide further info. these are professionally built units and set in epoxy inside a box for vibration and water protection

 

[kanemcv]

boost cut defeater

all units will be shipped pre set to suit the 1kz, and can also setup for different engines spread the word, im selling these at a cheap rate that definitely beats the price of a mechanical pump, also keep in mind a efi pump runs a 3d fuel map, and mechanical pump is only 2d, meaning you still get performance and economy, also have a 2nd chip which allows you to increase the fuel aswell as built in fuel cut

 

[graffie85]

I have read an article on one forum on how to do the boost cut. But which forum i can't recall which one. Was as simple as removing the boost sensor from what I recall. That was before I wanted to do it.

Already have an equivalent of the DP Chip and still the problem persists.

Options are:
1. Await until I can relocate the forum.
2. Limit boost to just below cut off, say 14psi.
3. Go manual fuel pump.

get fuel cut defender is always good

 

[Garett0439]

Hey GTSSportCoupe- so you basically adjust the voltage being sent from your map sensor to your ECU with the potentiometer? In other words, say your cruising along making 13 psi boost (measured on aftermarket gauge), and the ECU starts to fuel cut- and you then adjust the potentiometer to fake the ECU into seeing less boost, right? Sounds like a cheap, good option for avoiding the fuel cut to me, and far cheaper than a 3 bar MAP sensor.
Problems I can think of is if you just set the potentiometer to value and leave it- the ECU will see far less boost than is actually there most of the time. I think that could be good though, it would make you run lean an probably better MPG right? How is this mod going for you?

Sorry for my crude diagram- below is (from what I have read) a method for increasing boost with two boost controllers. One ball valve boost controller is used in the normal fashion on the line to the wastegate. Another boost controller is on a T on the line going to the MAP sensor and it starts letting air escape to the open environment when the boost gets to 13 PSI, that way the MAP sensor can theoretically never read boost above 13 PSI. I read of people doing it this way- have any of you actually done it? Are there any problems with this?

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